Some advice about rattle-can paint vs spray gun...

[mcalus]

true, depending on the fender quality yes he could scuff, seal, color and clear. I guess Im just use to getting body parts that are not always straight or perfect.

I totally understand lol. I hate use parts from LKQ at work.



To the op, what's your questions about clear? If you are planning on wetsanding it and rubbing it, I suggest 3-4 good coats. Don't slam your first 2 coats or by the time you get to your 3 or 4th youll be running it. Wait about 10 minutes or so between coats (based on 80ish degrees) I like to slide my finger through the clear (obviously not on the fender, on the stand or plastic that is next to your panel) and make sure it's tacky. If it's real slimy then don't put another coat on it yet.

97firehawk is a knowledgable person about this subject too. We just may have different views. I work in a production shop, shit needs to be done quick but done right so we don't have a comeback. I may try to cut corners but nothing that is going to effect the outcome or longevity of the painting.
I believe he works at a custom shop. Which is great! And stuff is done right.

Hope that helps ya out!!! Feel free to ask anything!

[bgtaylor]

The basics really, I know not to spray too much at a time obviously and I know how to set a gun to spray properly (width, ionization), but it has been some time since I've even touched a spray gun. Don't want fish eyes either, I've seen someone spray clear before and it looks nasty. I know I need to stay parallel to the surface I'm spraying along with even slightly overlapping coats, and to stay 8 in away when doing so. Are there different kinds of clear, other than brand names? Also, best locations to purchase the clear would be cool to know.

Brian.

[mcalus]

Don't be afraid to do a spray out. Grab an old fender or something to spray first so you know how it's going to layout. As for fish eyes use new rags or paper towel and some wax and grease remover. Make sure you don't have any water in your air compressor. Wouldn't be a bad idea to pick up a dryer at harbor freight.
Don't forget a tack rag. It's $1 and can give you a clean paint job. Do you have an Autovalue near you? I'd go there and see what products they carry.

[bri2203]

If they are new fenders you shouldn't have to prime them. Sand them with 600 grit, use sealer, base, clear.

Depends the quality of the new panel and how flat you want the panel to be. For example my car has new quarter panels, deck lid, door skins, fenders, hood, and many more smaller panels.
1973 vette 359..jpg

[Curt_irocz]

^^ thats almost how my car looks. With all the filler and blocking. exept my roof has alot more.

For one DONT wipe rattle can primer with wax and grease remover. Its not catalized, and will melt it right off..... Secound. DONT use rattle can primer, and then use base/ clear with a catalized clear. The primer WILL swell, and will look horrible. I HATE. and NEVER use rattle can primer unless its a lawn chair or maybe a mailbox. And the black shiney shuff on your fenders in e-coat. Sand it first!
I order most of my clear and primer (love the high build) From Crest down in trenton. And I get my base coat and Sometimes clear from Matrix systems in walled lake.