New guy with a high miles budget Z28.

[ktl711]

Welcome to MiFBody!

[2002Z4CSS]

Welcome! I thought any Z28 or SS with the LS1 and automatic got 3.23's. I had never heard of 2.73's being used in from the factory on a later 4th Gen. Maybe someone swapped the 2.73 out of an early LT1 4th Gen.

[ruckusz28]

Hi [MENTION=4836]typedRew[/MENTION]

Glad to see you out of the focus game

[typedRew]

New guy with a high miles budget Z28.

Welcome! I thought any Z28 or SS with the LS1 and automatic got 3.23's. I had never heard of 2.73's being used in from the factory on a later 4th Gen. Maybe someone swapped the 2.73 out of an early LT1 4th Gen.

RPO code GU2 signifies 2.73 rear gear. GU5 represent 3.23. Mine was a GU2 car, the GU5 being an option that mine did not receive.

I know several other LS A4s with the same gear, so it wasn't a swap.

Thank you for the welcome.

- Drew

[typedRew]

Hi [MENTION=4836]typedRew[/MENTION]

Glad to see you out of the focus game

Feels good Mike.

- Drew

[JoeliusZ28]

Welcome! I thought any Z28 or SS with the LS1 and automatic got 3.23's. I had never heard of 2.73's being used in from the factory on a later 4th Gen. Maybe someone swapped the 2.73 out of an early LT1 4th Gen.

2.73 is a factory option ive seen several. They go all the way to 50mph in first, make for some fun burnouts

[typedRew]

My car will do 57 in first. 96 in second. lol

Turns 1500rpm on the highway.

- Drew

[jderry]

When it comes to converters you won't be disappointed with either.
I love my yank. Dropped .5 with a yank and tune on my car.

[typedRew]

Bumping this as I don't know where I should put it specifically;

Looking for a bit of motivation and experience/help.

I need to get the transmission out, converter swapped, and back in. I've never done a rwd layout. I could use some help from folks who have done it before.

I have the rear end out, that's being swapped for my low miles rear end and I figure i'll leave it out until the trans comes out just for more room. The exhaust is also coming off because I have headers and catback to install as well(could use help here as well + engine mounts).

Curious if anybody downriver area feels like lending a hand to get me moving, i'm just less ambitious because I haven't done it before.

I'll also accept 'sack up and get to work' responses, as that may help as well.

- Drew

[ruckusz28]

When I did headers on my 4th gen I had to unbolt the motor from the mounts and Jack it up to get my hands in there. Cat back is straight forward.

If the 4th gen is anything like the third gen, you should be able to unbolt the block from the trans, drop the cross member, remove the torque arm (if that's not third gen specific) and then she'll come down. It's tight quarters so she'll need to be jacked up high. Invest in a trans jack.

[MORNINGSTAR2101]

Trans jack attachment definitely helps with this. Lots of wiggling that needs to be done along with brute force to get the trans off.

[Doomspectre]

I would highly recommend going through the trans and rebuilding it if it hasn't been already with putting a big converter in your car like that, or you'll run into the problems I am dealing with right now with having to pull out the trans multiple times. My trans only lasted 2 days after I put my Yank 3600ss converter in, and the trans had just over 100k miles on it.

[typedRew]

When I did headers on my 4th gen I had to unbolt the motor from the mounts and Jack it up to get my hands in there. Cat back is straight forward.

If the 4th gen is anything like the third gen, you should be able to unbolt the block from the trans, drop the cross member, remove the torque arm (if that's not third gen specific) and then she'll come down. It's tight quarters so she'll need to be jacked up high. Invest in a trans jack.

Yeah, trying to get it up high for both the headers and trans. Rear end is out currently, so the torque arm is 50% out now.

I'm installing Spohn engine stands as well, so they engine will have to be unbolted and supported for that at some point regardless.

Trans jack attachment definitely helps with this. Lots of wiggling that needs to be done along with brute force to get the trans off.

Trans jack is currently out of the question just for monetary reasons.

I would highly recommend going through the trans and rebuilding it if it hasn't been already with putting a big converter in your car like that, or you'll run into the problems I am dealing with right now with having to pull out the trans multiple times. My trans only lasted 2 days after I put my Yank 3600ss converter in, and the trans had just over 100k miles on it.

No money will be spent on anything unless it's required, if it dies it dies and i'll have some more down time. This is not a daily driver.

The trans fluid is perfectly clean, i've had the pan off and it looks great. It's definitely been gone through before. Not going to worry about it, just installing the best trans cooler I can. It drives perfectly well and has no issues or noises, so I hope the trans rebuild was good enough to handle the converter.

- Drew

[ruckusz28]

[Tang]

Welcome! Back in 99 I had a Z28 that was a budget build as well. With only MAC mid-length headers & ORY, a Vigilante #7 3600 stall converter, a lid with the FRA mod, and some nitto drag radials on the 16" wheels I was able to run 12.23 on a good DA day in the 1/4 with a 1.6x 60'. There's no shame in that! Those 2.73's will actually put up with some good launches in the 10 bolt with an auto believe it or not.