Welcome to the site, Rob! The window track is not fun at all.
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hello all, just sayin hi
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- Brian Meissen
Owner, MiFBody.com
Administrator, LTxTech.com

1994 Camaro LT1 Transplant -
357ci LT1, cammed, stalled, and driven. 
2022 Camaro LT1 - "Cherry Bomb 2"Michigan FBody Meet & Greet Car Show 2022
June 4th, 2022 - 9am to 3pm!!!
The HUB Stadium, Auburn Hills, MI
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your profile is private, so nobody can view the picsOriginally posted by cobrakillr94 View Postsorry about that, im not sure why it didnt work, but ill just post the link to my myspace that they are in. Let me know what you think of it. BTW the wheels are ss 17s painted black with a red lip. 275-40s all the way around.http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/inde...lbumId=2793426
welcome to the site, I like those rims the red lip really stands out on the black on black setup.
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sorry about that, ive got it public now lol, didnt even think about that.
And thanks for the comment on the wheels. The red on the lip turned out kinda orange/red so ill be redoing them bright red when the weather gets better, and i painted the fender emblems red. so that helped tie into the red a little bit too.
And why are the window tracks not fun at all? are they a pain to fix?? or is it just that its expensive?
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Welcome to the site! About the window regulator/motor, it's not so much the expense as it's a PIA. The door is made up of fiberglass and the regulators is riveted to the inner skin of the door. You may have to fabricate some metal to tighten up how the window rolls up and down, seeing as the fiberglass wears out and rivets just don't work well after heavy use.Originally posted by cobrakillr94 View Postsorry about that, ive got it public now lol, didnt even think about that.
And thanks for the comment on the wheels. The red on the lip turned out kinda orange/red so ill be redoing them bright red when the weather gets better, and i painted the fender emblems red. so that helped tie into the red a little bit too.
And why are the window tracks not fun at all? are they a pain to fix?? or is it just that its expensive?
Also, you're going to want to be careful the way you take the motor out. The regulator is under tension. Perhaps a vise will cut down the danger of gutting yourself. The attached link may help in getting that all taken care of:
http://shbox.com/page/windowmotor.htmlLast edited by steddy; February 10th, 2010, 07:11 AM.sigpic
Why the Hell do I have to press 1 for english?!

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Keep in mind there's two different things that's being discussed here. What Carl is discussing is removing the window motor. What my dad and I are talking about is the actual window tracks themselves. To replace the window track, you need to remove the entire glass assembly from the door and then drill out rivets that go through the glass and keep the track together. You have to be careful not to slip or else your window will shatter into millions of pieces. When the window motor goes bad, your window won't roll up all the way or will randomly just stop rolling up, seem sluggish, etc. When your window tracks are bad, the little rollers that the window motor uses to move the window up and down get dislodged and your window basically is free floating in the door skin.- Brian Meissen
Owner, MiFBody.com
Administrator, LTxTech.com

1994 Camaro LT1 Transplant -
357ci LT1, cammed, stalled, and driven. 
2022 Camaro LT1 - "Cherry Bomb 2"Michigan FBody Meet & Greet Car Show 2022
June 4th, 2022 - 9am to 3pm!!!
The HUB Stadium, Auburn Hills, MI
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Welcome to the site! Gorgeous car you got there! Post often and enjoy your stay!
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Yes, that is what happened to me. I can take the window and move it forward or backward about 4 inches, and it is constantly falling down in the back whenever i go to roll it up or down. Ive had the door panel off so i can see what happened. So basically just take my time and i should be ok? done deal. The motors are all new so that part is ok for now.Originally posted by meissen View PostKeep in mind there's two different things that's being discussed here. What Carl is discussing is removing the window motor. What my dad and I are talking about is the actual window tracks themselves. To replace the window track, you need to remove the entire glass assembly from the door and then drill out rivets that go through the glass and keep the track together. You have to be careful not to slip or else your window will shatter into millions of pieces. When the window motor goes bad, your window won't roll up all the way or will randomly just stop rolling up, seem sluggish, etc. When your window tracks are bad, the little rollers that the window motor uses to move the window up and down get dislodged and your window basically is free floating in the door skin.
Now on another note.......where the heck do i find those stupid brackets for the rear calipers that the parking brake cable mounts to? The p.o. had the drivers side break right off on him so instead of replacing it, he just ziptied the cable out of the way on that side so my ebrake doesnt work.
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The rear roller broke off of my rear window last summer(rear of the window would keep falling, window would get stuck open, etc.), I ended up fixing it by drilling/tapping a hole in the roller and bolting it to the bracket on the window. Pretty easy fix but I need to make it tighter.
Used to own a Firebird.
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Yeah, just take your time and be careful. It's not hard, just not something I personally like tackling (the whole drilling rivets out that go through a pane of glass part).Originally posted by cobrakillr94 View PostYes, that is what happened to me. I can take the window and move it forward or backward about 4 inches, and it is constantly falling down in the back whenever i go to roll it up or down. Ive had the door panel off so i can see what happened. So basically just take my time and i should be ok? done deal. The motors are all new so that part is ok for now.
Now on another note.......where the heck do i find those stupid brackets for the rear calipers that the parking brake cable mounts to? The p.o. had the drivers side break right off on him so instead of replacing it, he just ziptied the cable out of the way on that side so my ebrake doesnt work.
As for the brackets, which bracket specifically is it that's broken? The T-bracket by the driveshaft, the bracket that the cable's sheathing clips into behind the rotor assembly, or the actual shoe that the cable clips to?- Brian Meissen
Owner, MiFBody.com
Administrator, LTxTech.com

1994 Camaro LT1 Transplant -
357ci LT1, cammed, stalled, and driven. 
2022 Camaro LT1 - "Cherry Bomb 2"Michigan FBody Meet & Greet Car Show 2022
June 4th, 2022 - 9am to 3pm!!!
The HUB Stadium, Auburn Hills, MI
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its the entire bracket that has the damper on it that actually bolts TO the drivers side caliper. I hope i can find one because i dont feel like getting an entire caliper just for a stupid bracket.
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