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Screwed with the new car and it doesnt run anymore

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  • Screwed with the new car and it doesnt run anymore

    As the title says i screwed with it, it doesnt run anymore and im out of ideas. 92 camaro 3.1L

    Originally it was lacking alot of the already low power range, and was misfiring. plugs cleared that up alot, fuel filter and air filters helped after that, once I replaced wires it would idle 10x better but in gear it would die, just start missing terribly and die. delco wires, ngk plugs. I put everything back together as it was previously one wire at a time. Before that issue I checked timing it says its at 20* with the esc unplugged. I cant check it now because it doesnt run at all. so to the chiltons I went, it told me drivers side was 135 pass side was 246 and firing order was 123456. same thing it would idle all day but in gear it wouldnt run whatsoever. I contacted a friend who corrected me that cylinder on the pass side were 135 and drivers were 246. once again it would idle but die under load in gear. Back to square one pull the cap, line the timing marks up which id assume would put cyl 1 at tdc again. Started the firing order with 1 and went through it all over and I cant even get it to start now. I'm so lost. fuel pressure checked out fine and didnt diminish after sitting when I did fuel filter. What am I missing here? Seems to be a bunch of misinformation out there as to whats what between the gm and buick 3.1 which are apparently entirely different.

    More info on the car which may or may not be of use. It has a hypertech chip, i know its junk but it ran great before still should run ok, as well as a cam. I assumed some of those 20* of timing may be due to both of those but i think 20* with esc unplugged is still ridiculous. I was attempting to get it running better to just drive it, focus on interior and suspension until i have a SBC all together ready to drop in down the road.
    91 Trans am, 305, Lt1 cam, 24lb injectors, headers, SLP LM2, SW chassis, massive panhard, lowered, modded TPI, Tuned, 4.10s, Lincoln locked
    85 Z28 406/th400?/3.42 4th gen disc rear/4th gen dash
    00 Tahoe Z71........Stock
    97 K1500 lt4 cam, 1.6s, MPFI, Solid axled, IROKs,------winter beater

  • #2
    1 is always the furthest forward. 4 stroke engine. lining up the timing marks may be tdc but you have to be on the compression stroke

    Comment


    • #3
      yea im slowly thinking it might be 180 out im gonna have to pull some egr stuff off and check it with #1 fully at tdc on comp stroke
      91 Trans am, 305, Lt1 cam, 24lb injectors, headers, SLP LM2, SW chassis, massive panhard, lowered, modded TPI, Tuned, 4.10s, Lincoln locked
      85 Z28 406/th400?/3.42 4th gen disc rear/4th gen dash
      00 Tahoe Z71........Stock
      97 K1500 lt4 cam, 1.6s, MPFI, Solid axled, IROKs,------winter beater

      Comment


      • #4
        Roll it over until timing marks are aligned. Pop distributor cap off. Is rotor lined up with #1 plug lug? If yes and piston is tdc timing is good. If not,timing is off. Check that #1 is actually in the correct spot on the cap, and not just wired to be #1.
        If timing is off it either jumped time or the distributor was installed wrong.

        And actually do it this way. Pull #1 plug and roll engine over with something in the cyl. To feel the piston when it gets to tdc. If the timing make has lined up you are at tdc compression if the mark is elsewhere you need to roll it over another 180 degrees.

        Comment


        • #5
          so pulled the alt out of the way, found tdc on #1 and set timing with esc unplugged, still wont run. if im cranking continuously and rotating the distributor i can maybe get a few constant chugs and then dies off.

          should alt be plugged in?
          should esc be plugged in?

          i tried a different distributor and still nada. ohmed and tested wires, cap, rotor, coil, pickup, icm etc. still nothing. TJ was saying theres a bunch of fuses and things that will result in a no start but allow fuel spark and air in. just not to its full extent, i cant find any of this info nor locations of such things. fuel pressure still good. computer tested fine. swapping to 180 is much more defined now as incorrect as it backfires tremendously. what else is there? if it was a vats issue the security light would be on correct? it did throw a map code, i wass under the assumption a vehicle would still run with a bad map just not well. any way to test map? should i try to figure out how to disable passlock or vats or whatever just in case?
          91 Trans am, 305, Lt1 cam, 24lb injectors, headers, SLP LM2, SW chassis, massive panhard, lowered, modded TPI, Tuned, 4.10s, Lincoln locked
          85 Z28 406/th400?/3.42 4th gen disc rear/4th gen dash
          00 Tahoe Z71........Stock
          97 K1500 lt4 cam, 1.6s, MPFI, Solid axled, IROKs,------winter beater

          Comment


          • #6
            If you are getting spark vats isn't the problem. Check fuel pressure and compression.

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by zeeman View Post
              If you are getting spark vats isn't the problem. Check fuel pressure and compression.
              VATS does not cut spark, just fuel. Agree with checking fuel pressure.

              1998 Camaro Z28 - Bright Red, 6.0 TR224, 4l60e, 3.42 Eaton TrueTrac
              1989 Camaro IROC-Z Convertible - 355 big tube TPI, WC T5, 3.42 Zexel Torsen, CTS-V/C4 brakes
              1955 Bel Air 2 Door Post - 357 TPI, Muncie M20, 4 wheel disc

              2006 Saab 9-7x 5.3i Daily Driver

              Comment


              • #8
                FP was the first thing i did, checked fine, compression checked fine on all 6. its getting all three air fuel spark. had a map code, but bad map would still start, idt im getting timing right one bit
                91 Trans am, 305, Lt1 cam, 24lb injectors, headers, SLP LM2, SW chassis, massive panhard, lowered, modded TPI, Tuned, 4.10s, Lincoln locked
                85 Z28 406/th400?/3.42 4th gen disc rear/4th gen dash
                00 Tahoe Z71........Stock
                97 K1500 lt4 cam, 1.6s, MPFI, Solid axled, IROKs,------winter beater

                Comment


                • #9
                  Just cause it has fuel pressure doesn't mean it has fuel. Check injectors with a noidlight?

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Your base timing should be 10* with ESC unplugged, not 20*. Pull the #1 spark plug out and roll the engine over with your finger over the plug hole. When you feel pressure push your finger, you know you are coming up on #1 compression. Put a long screwdriver or similar in the hole and watch until the screwdriver stops moving up. You are at TDC. Pull the dist cap and make sure it's lined up with where the #1 is on the cap. This should have you in the ballpark enough to start it, you may have to bump the dist one way or the other as you crank on it.
                    After cranking for a while, are ALL of your spark plugs wet? This would tell you if you are actually getting fuel into the cylinders.
                    You say you checked compression and it's fine. What is fine? What numbers are you getting and are they all even?

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by 1BADAIR View Post
                      Just cause it has fuel pressure doesn't mean it has fuel. Check injectors with a noidlight?
                      yes they pulse
                      91 Trans am, 305, Lt1 cam, 24lb injectors, headers, SLP LM2, SW chassis, massive panhard, lowered, modded TPI, Tuned, 4.10s, Lincoln locked
                      85 Z28 406/th400?/3.42 4th gen disc rear/4th gen dash
                      00 Tahoe Z71........Stock
                      97 K1500 lt4 cam, 1.6s, MPFI, Solid axled, IROKs,------winter beater

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Drdave88 View Post
                        Your base timing should be 10* with ESC unplugged, not 20*. Pull the #1 spark plug out and roll the engine over with your finger over the plug hole. When you feel pressure push your finger, you know you are coming up on #1 compression. Put a long screwdriver or similar in the hole and watch until the screwdriver stops moving up. You are at TDC. Pull the dist cap and make sure it's lined up with where the #1 is on the cap. This should have you in the ballpark enough to start it, you may have to bump the dist one way or the other as you crank on it.
                        After cranking for a while, are ALL of your spark plugs wet? This would tell you if you are actually getting fuel into the cylinders.
                        You say you checked compression and it's fine. What is fine? What numbers are you getting and are they all even?
                        thats exactly what ive been doing. injectors were pulsing plugs were wet, hadnt checked them today aftermessing with it. theres fuel at the schrader etc. unless i have a faulty noid light that i borrowed? otherwise im lacking the tools to find out.
                        91 Trans am, 305, Lt1 cam, 24lb injectors, headers, SLP LM2, SW chassis, massive panhard, lowered, modded TPI, Tuned, 4.10s, Lincoln locked
                        85 Z28 406/th400?/3.42 4th gen disc rear/4th gen dash
                        00 Tahoe Z71........Stock
                        97 K1500 lt4 cam, 1.6s, MPFI, Solid axled, IROKs,------winter beater

                        Comment

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