Ideas?

[TB2]

What exactly is the 350 that you are getting? Is it complete? What's the condition? Also need to realize that as you add more horsepower theirs a lot of other costs that start popping up. Trans, rearend, ignition, fuel pumps, etc.

[RcamaroS]

Its a 350 4 bolt without heads.
A little fingernail lip on cylinder #7
It has everything but the heads.

[Fbomb]

I forget, do you drive it every day all year round or do you have a beater?

Cam makes it not so much fun to drive every day...ended up driving mine 4k last year.

[shawnc16]

Vortec heads, hot cam, and beehive springs. Done. That will get you in the 12's with traction. The beehive springs will save you cash so you don't have to cut the spring pockets on the heads. With a small budget like that, you cant beat vortec heads

[MP81]

With a small budget like that, you cant beat vortec heads

This is true.

Beehive springs can live a few hundred higher RPMs then regular springs, too, which is nice if you're planning on a higher-RPM range.

[RcamaroS]

What would be good (but cheap) heads that I would be happy with for about 8 months or so?

[MP81]

Vortecs

[RcamaroS]

Would they work on a mid 70s sb with a carb? Im not really sure???
and like what year heads?

[TylerT/AZ28]

afr heads are very good, for intake i assume its to be carbed because of your holey 750 reference, so id say anything double or single plane is pretty straight forward it just depends if you want it to clear the hood and how much flow you want

[Fbomb]

Would they work on a mid 70s sb with a carb? Im not really sure???
and like what year heads?

I think you have to epoxy a few coolant passages but it's been done.

[TrickyTransAm]

$2000 wont buy to much... Look into used heads, or find some stock heads and have them worked over. You could spend $2000 on bare heads alone... I would just swap in a complete running 350 with a cam and nice exhaust, you would be happy for now...

Beg to differ. My co-worker just bought a set of Patriot Performance Aluminum heads for his boy's car at $800 for the PAIR. 200cc runners, 2.02" valves, high flow performance heads as cast.
You can get the CNC'd ones for slightly more.
If he's not going to be racing it hard, these heads would be a great alternative to an iron head at an attractive price. I'd run 10:1 compression or 10.5:1 - but will require premium fuel.
He can completely rebuild that motor for about $2500 for mild performance easily. Three Fiddy rebuild kits are cheap unless you start getting into the really expensive stuff like gear drives, fancy schmancy valve covers etc etc.

If your lookin to do more to it, I'd just put it on the stand and start going through it. Make a Plan, save your money for that plan. To me, its somewhat a waste of money to buy the parts only to throw them away or sell them at a loss later. Does your old motor run yet?
I wouldn't push the stock bottom end past 6500rpm. How many miles does it have on it now?

How cheap you want? If cheap cheap like $200 cheap - take MP81s advice and pick up a set of Vortech's, have em redone for $150 and call it a day. They should bolt up. I believe it's the intake you have to worry about.

There's a million things you could do, but one thing I have learned over the years - Keep your eye on the costs. Total up what you want to do, then comparison shop. For the money you are going to spend, can you buy a crate motor ready to go? Almost every one I have rebuilt so far - was about the same cost as a crate motor. The only benefit was the learning experience and the satisfaction of doing it yourself.
All that is grand, but also keep in mind that there are many machine shops that aren't up to snuff - so there are also risks and unforseen costs as my 3800 found out.
Weigh your options, then go shopping.

[RcamaroS]

Beg to differ. My co-worker just bought a set of Patriot Performance Aluminum heads for his boy's car at $800 for the PAIR. 200cc runners, high flow performance heads as cast.
You can get the CNC'd ones for slightly more.
If he's not going to be racing it hard, these heads would be a great alternative to an iron head at an attractive price. I'd run 10:1 compression or 10.5:1 - but will require premium fuel.
He can completely rebuild that motor for about $2500 for mild performance easily. Three Fiddy rebuild kits are cheap unless you start getting into the really expensive stuff like gear drives, fancy schmancy valve covers etc etc.

If your lookin to do more to it, I'd just put it on the stand and start going through it. Make a Plan, save your money for that plan. To me, its somewhat a waste of money to buy the parts only to throw them away or sell them at a loss later. Does your old motor run yet?
I wouldn't push the stock bottom end past 6500rpm. How many miles does it have on it now?

How cheap you want? If cheap cheap like $200 cheap - take MP81s advice and pick up a set of Vortech's, have em redone for $150 and call it a day. They should bolt up. I believe it's the intake you have to worry about.

Well thats what i planned is to get it, put it on a stand, go through it, check the bearings and everything, get some nice heads and prob a nice cam. I was hoping to run 10.5:1 comp because i work at Kroger and they have a gas station there and more groceries my parents get more money i get off gas. I was thinking in the ball park of about 10:1 or 10.5:1. I talked to my dad and he can get his hands on a nice pair of camel backs for 100$ from a guy at his work. I could probably have a port job done to it and everything. Yes my old motor(305) still runs and its still in the car until the 350 is complete and 100% ready to put in.

[TylerT/AZ28]

why dont you stroke it, and then port and polish the heads and what not yourself. your in high school or college? are you taking an auto class , if so then your teacher should let you work on an engine yourself depoending on what machines you have. i know my school has a boring bar and whatever we dont have macomb does