Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

killswitch, battery relocation and possible push start questions

Collapse
X
Collapse
Who has read this thread:
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • killswitch, battery relocation and possible push start questions

    so yesterday someone broke into my camaro, and made a mess of the interior, and tried to start the car so the ignition doesnt really like any pressure anymore so i thought id ask about some wiring help. first off i think i may as well move my battery to the rear of the car, but im just wondering how everyone else has done theirs. do you run the extremely long battery wires on the inside or outside of your car? next would be is i want to run a killswitch in it, so i know the basics of wiring but do i need any kind of fuse or anything specail for when i wire in a switch? and then my last idea was push start, its always been a thought in the back of my head, my car is carburated so im thinking that may be a problem because i have to prime the choke everytime i drive it, but i still want to have to turn the key to the start position. im thinking it may be a tad more work than im up for right now, but any input on any of these questions would be greatly appreciated.
    91 Trans am, 305, Lt1 cam, 24lb injectors, headers, SLP LM2, SW chassis, massive panhard, lowered, modded TPI, Tuned, 4.10s, Lincoln locked
    85 Z28 406/th400?/3.42 4th gen disc rear/4th gen dash
    00 Tahoe Z71........Stock
    97 K1500 lt4 cam, 1.6s, MPFI, Solid axled, IROKs,------winter beater

  • #2
    by doing that its still not going to prevent thieves from breaking into it.. chances are if your worried about them actually stealing the car they prob wont be able to get it started since its carbed and not fuel injected.. your best bet is just going to be putting a switch inline with the fuel pump to kill power to it. that way if that doesnt kick on they wont be going anywhere




    Comment


    • #3
      I just relocated my battery to the spare tire area. I ran 2 ga wire from the front to the rear inside the car and secured it with wire clamps. I then ran cable loom covers over the wire for added protection. I have a 200 amp circuit breaker near the battery and ran a ground off the front distro block to the frame and another ground off the battery.. Simply turn off the breaker when not in use and the car will have 0 power.. Won't stop anyone from breaking in, but most idiots would never see the breaker as a reason the car won't start.. As Sean said above, a kill switch for the fuel pump tucked up under the dash will also do the trick.. My buddy had them on all his hot rods, if you didn't know where the switch was the car would not start...

      IMG_4346.JPG
      sigpic
      U.S. Army 1983-2005
      11.20@122.37 1.51 60'

      Originally posted by WMCCjames

      "Plans Subject to change upon Sobering up"

      Comment


      • #4
        not really the fuel pump, because mines mechanical, but the sending unit that runs insed the car is what i think your talking about. if i remember correctly theres 3 or so wires. which one do i cut into?
        91 Trans am, 305, Lt1 cam, 24lb injectors, headers, SLP LM2, SW chassis, massive panhard, lowered, modded TPI, Tuned, 4.10s, Lincoln locked
        85 Z28 406/th400?/3.42 4th gen disc rear/4th gen dash
        00 Tahoe Z71........Stock
        97 K1500 lt4 cam, 1.6s, MPFI, Solid axled, IROKs,------winter beater

        Comment


        • #5
          Be aware that a trip to the track could require alot more...

          NHRA rules apply:

          Rule reads like this..........

          "Battery relocation, rear firewall of .024 inch steel or .032 inch aluminum (including package tray) required when locating the battery in the trunk.
          In lieu of a rear firewall, the battery may be located in a sealed .024 steel or .032 aluminum or NHRA accepted poly box.
          If a sealed box is used in lieu of a rear firewall, box may not be used to secure the batter and must be vented outside the body.

          Relocated battery must be fastened to the frame or frame structure with a minimum of two 3/8 inch diameter bolts. ("J" hooks are prohibited or must have open end welded shut.)

          OEM located batteries without a complete oem hold down hardware must be secured to oem batter box/tray using the same 3/8 inch diameter hold down method described in previous sentence. Metal hold down straps mandatory.

          Master cut-off switch is mandatory on a relocated battery at the rear most part of the vehicle. It must be easily accessible from the outside of the vehicle and must be connected to the positive side of the battery. It must stop all electrical functions.
          Also the "OFF" position must be clearly indicated.


          Just so you know and can be prepared on track day. So in other words, since you are using a box (hopefully NHRA approved) you don't need the firewall to seperate the driver, but you will have to vent it outside the body properly. In your case the battery itself needs to be fastened to a frame like structure,,,not the box itself.
          And of course last but not least, you'll need a master cut-off switch outside the vehicle, somewhere around the rear bumper area."

          I saw this the other day on another site, thought it was very interesting.
          sigpicMODS: SLP DUAL/DUAL EXHAUST, 160 STAT, MTI LID, SHANER S3 T.B., SMOOTH BELLOWS, DESCREENED MAF, TUNNEL BRACE, UMI SFC & PHB, STRANO SWAY BARS, DRILLED/SLOTTED ROTORS, WHISTLER LIGHTS, BLACK BILLET GRILLE w/69'SS EMBLEM, BLACK SMOOTHED TAIL PANEL w/69'SS EMBLEM, BLACK SS HOOD INSERT, INTIMIDATOR SS WHEELS.

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by SSTODD View Post
            Be aware that a trip to the track could require alot more...

            NHRA rules apply:

            Rule reads like this..........

            "Battery relocation, rear firewall of .024 inch steel or .032 inch aluminum (including package tray) required when locating the battery in the trunk.
            In lieu of a rear firewall, the battery may be located in a sealed .024 steel or .032 aluminum or NHRA accepted poly box.
            If a sealed box is used in lieu of a rear firewall, box may not be used to secure the batter and must be vented outside the body.

            Relocated battery must be fastened to the frame or frame structure with a minimum of two 3/8 inch diameter bolts. ("J" hooks are prohibited or must have open end welded shut.)

            OEM located batteries without a complete oem hold down hardware must be secured to oem batter box/tray using the same 3/8 inch diameter hold down method described in previous sentence. Metal hold down straps mandatory.

            Master cut-off switch is mandatory on a relocated battery at the rear most part of the vehicle. It must be easily accessible from the outside of the vehicle and must be connected to the positive side of the battery. It must stop all electrical functions.
            Also the "OFF" position must be clearly indicated.


            Just so you know and can be prepared on track day. So in other words, since you are using a box (hopefully NHRA approved) you don't need the firewall to seperate the driver, but you will have to vent it outside the body properly. In your case the battery itself needs to be fastened to a frame like structure,,,not the box itself.
            And of course last but not least, you'll need a master cut-off switch outside the vehicle, somewhere around the rear bumper area."

            I saw this the other day on another site, thought it was very interesting.
            Yep, well aware... Our tech is pretty slack(never even opened my hood for them), so not worried about it for now...If they say something, it only takes ten minutes to put it back to stock.. I am having a Custom box made to seal the battery and vent to the outside.. Kill switch, next winters project.. (Sorry OP, figured he was posting for me since I showed my NHRA illegal battery setup)
            Last edited by OIF1VET; December 15th, 2010, 07:11 PM.
            sigpic
            U.S. Army 1983-2005
            11.20@122.37 1.51 60'

            Originally posted by WMCCjames

            "Plans Subject to change upon Sobering up"

            Comment


            • #7
              yeah i sorta thought he was, i never intend to have mine as a track car, plus its far from one
              91 Trans am, 305, Lt1 cam, 24lb injectors, headers, SLP LM2, SW chassis, massive panhard, lowered, modded TPI, Tuned, 4.10s, Lincoln locked
              85 Z28 406/th400?/3.42 4th gen disc rear/4th gen dash
              00 Tahoe Z71........Stock
              97 K1500 lt4 cam, 1.6s, MPFI, Solid axled, IROKs,------winter beater

              Comment


              • #8
                Just wire another toggle to ignition and place it in a hidden spot...I don't think you have a locking glove box, do you?

                Used to own a Firebird.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by OIF1VET View Post
                  Yep, well aware... Our tech is pretty slack(never even opened my hood for them), so not worried about it for now...If they say something, it only takes ten minutes to put it back to stock.. I am having a Custom box made to seal the battery and vent to the outside.. Kill switch, next winters project.. (Sorry OP, figured he was posting for me since I showed my NHRA illegal battery setup)

                  at martin? everytime i go there they inspect the crap out of my car. i gotta replace my windshield before i can go back. (has a few cracks in it now)
                  98 z28, m6, monster clutch, eibach pro kit, custom twin turbo setup, 317 heads, z06 valve springs, arp rod bolts, 512rwhp at 10lbs. cobra eater

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Gaspo View Post
                    at martin? everytime i go there they inspect the crap out of my car. i gotta replace my windshield before i can go back. (has a few cracks in it now)
                    Mid-Michigan
                    sigpic
                    U.S. Army 1983-2005
                    11.20@122.37 1.51 60'

                    Originally posted by WMCCjames

                    "Plans Subject to change upon Sobering up"

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by TylerT/AZ28 View Post
                      yeah i sorta thought he was, i never intend to have mine as a track car, plus its far from one
                      I was just stating in general to anyone wanting to do this and then make a few runs sometime, I never knew the possible amount of work needed to pass a "good" tech inspection with some mods. I see a bunch of people talking about this battery mod but never the possible issues, like the track not allowing you to run at all. All is good.
                      sigpicMODS: SLP DUAL/DUAL EXHAUST, 160 STAT, MTI LID, SHANER S3 T.B., SMOOTH BELLOWS, DESCREENED MAF, TUNNEL BRACE, UMI SFC & PHB, STRANO SWAY BARS, DRILLED/SLOTTED ROTORS, WHISTLER LIGHTS, BLACK BILLET GRILLE w/69'SS EMBLEM, BLACK SMOOTHED TAIL PANEL w/69'SS EMBLEM, BLACK SS HOOD INSERT, INTIMIDATOR SS WHEELS.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by SSTODD View Post
                        I was just stating in general to anyone wanting to do this and then make a few runs sometime, I never knew the possible amount of work needed to pass a "good" tech inspection with some mods. I see a bunch of people talking about this battery mod but never the possible issues, like the track not allowing you to run at all. All is good.
                        No problem man. It's good info for sure, a lot of people probably don't realize what all is involved with a correct relocation.. I have decided that I am going to take some extra time and finish it up right, before I go to the track.. I'll probably want to run at Martin next year, and I know they'd check me there.. If I don't get it done in time, I'll just throw the battery up front when I go to Martin..
                        sigpic
                        U.S. Army 1983-2005
                        11.20@122.37 1.51 60'

                        Originally posted by WMCCjames

                        "Plans Subject to change upon Sobering up"

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          thirdgens do not have glove boxes and the center console isnt locking so no i do not, i could easily find a place to hide it though
                          91 Trans am, 305, Lt1 cam, 24lb injectors, headers, SLP LM2, SW chassis, massive panhard, lowered, modded TPI, Tuned, 4.10s, Lincoln locked
                          85 Z28 406/th400?/3.42 4th gen disc rear/4th gen dash
                          00 Tahoe Z71........Stock
                          97 K1500 lt4 cam, 1.6s, MPFI, Solid axled, IROKs,------winter beater

                          Comment

                          Working...
                          X