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  • Random stalling?

    I recently bought zyoul8r's 86 Camaro with the 305, Edelbrock intake and carb, MSD distributor and coil, Hedman shorty headers, and a 270 Comp Cam, and today it stalled on me a couple of times and random points. It stalled twice while I was turning, and once at a stop light. After I restarted it when it stalled at the stop light, it ran strong, but at the next stop light, it sputtered when I took off from the light until about 15-20 mph. Could this be the carb on here? Also, it was converted to carburetor (I think), and it still has the fuel pump in the tank like the fuel injected cars had, and I was wondering if I should go back to a cam driven (I think thats how it works) fuel pump when I build my new motor. Any help on either topic will help me out a lot. Thanks,
    -Spencer
    1992 Chevy Caprice Wagon - Tree fiddy and posi
    1987 Chevy Monte Carlo SS - Tree fiddy and more posi
    1995 Mercury Grand Marquis LS - Modular powah
    1995 Ford F150 XL - Tow pig

  • #2
    Originally posted by dsgrntld187
    I recently bought zyoul8r's 86 Camaro with the 305, Edelbrock intake and carb, MSD distributor and coil, Hedman shorty headers, and a 270 Comp Cam, and today it stalled on me a couple of times and random points. It stalled twice while I was turning, and once at a stop light. After I restarted it when it stalled at the stop light, it ran strong, but at the next stop light, it sputtered when I took off from the light until about 15-20 mph. Could this be the carb on here? Also, it was converted to carburetor (I think), and it still has the fuel pump in the tank like the fuel injected cars had, and I was wondering if I should go back to a cam driven (I think thats how it works) fuel pump when I build my new motor. Any help on either topic will help me out a lot. Thanks,
    -Spencer
    Sounds like its running a little lean at idle.

    You probably have the mallory 3 port fuel regulator on there.

    For long term, if the motor will be out, a regular cam driven pump would be your best route. You will have to drop the tank too, though.

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    • #3
      depends what you wanna do both mechanical pump and electric pump are good but they both can go at any time... alot of times i have ran both on a carb motor to make it easier on the fuel system... if you can run a manual pump keep the electric and just put a fuel regulator on it then the electric will help push it along so both dont have to fight as much... and if one does die you have a spare pump and your not stranded....i heard the car run when i gave him my spare t-tops and really i think you just need to crank the idle up on the carb a bit... you will loose a bit of the lobby sound but it will help it not to stall... check on the specs of the cam and see what the idle speed is normally ran at and then just try to match it..
      Originally posted by Frank The Tank
      Took the restrictor plate off to give the Red Dragon a little more juice. But it's not exactly street legal, so keep it on the down low.

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      • #4
        i just looked up the specs ont he cam and i would say to keep it reliable without any stalling your gonna probably need somewere in the 750-1000rpm for an idle... thats a pretty healthy cam for a 305 470/470 lift...
        Originally posted by Frank The Tank
        Took the restrictor plate off to give the Red Dragon a little more juice. But it's not exactly street legal, so keep it on the down low.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by wezeles
          i just looked up the specs ont he cam and i would say to keep it reliable without any stalling your gonna probably need somewere in the 750-1000rpm for an idle... thats a pretty healthy cam for a 305 470/470 lift...
          I got my 350 to idle at about 600 with a 505/510 lift. But its efi... so it will automatically control the idle if it starts to stall out.

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          • #6
            ya makes a huge difference when it can adjust on the fly... carb wont do that..lol even with my last cam which wasnt huge like a 440/440 i had it at 900rpm just so i knew i would be alright it would idle fine in normal conditions but fast breaking or hmm the 5 dollar ride with friends doing doughnuts it would stall out so i bumped it up from 750 to 900 which seem to run really nice, you just have to keep in mind your cooling system too when runing a higher idle the engine will get hot faster but are you going to be able to keep it cool? i run dual fans and a jegs racing alum rad on mine and keeps it at a constant 165... but if my fans kick out it goes up pretty fast.
            Originally posted by Frank The Tank
            Took the restrictor plate off to give the Red Dragon a little more juice. But it's not exactly street legal, so keep it on the down low.

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by wezeles
              ya makes a huge difference when it can adjust on the fly... carb wont do that..lol even with my last cam which wasnt huge like a 440/440 i had it at 900rpm just so i knew i would be alright it would idle fine in normal conditions but fast breaking or hmm the 5 dollar ride with friends doing doughnuts it would stall out so i bumped it up from 750 to 900 which seem to run really nice, you just have to keep in mind your cooling system too when runing a higher idle the engine will get hot faster but are you going to be able to keep it cool? i run dual fans and a jegs racing alum rad on mine and keeps it at a constant 165... but if my fans kick out it goes up pretty fast.
              Yeah mine keeps it at a constant 165 also, I'll bump it up tomorrow morning before I leave.
              1992 Chevy Caprice Wagon - Tree fiddy and posi
              1987 Chevy Monte Carlo SS - Tree fiddy and more posi
              1995 Mercury Grand Marquis LS - Modular powah
              1995 Ford F150 XL - Tow pig

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              • #8
                Mine runs 180, down from 220 stock, but, thats largely because at 165 EFI will not be warm enough for the O2 sensor to operate properly. 170 is about as low as you wanna go with EFI.

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                • #9
                  Just an update:
                  Bumped the idle up to 900, it hasn't stalled yet, but when I'm at a light occasionally the idle is only at 500, sometimes lower, and I have to give it a little gas to keep it running. Everything should be okay once I build my new motor.
                  1992 Chevy Caprice Wagon - Tree fiddy and posi
                  1987 Chevy Monte Carlo SS - Tree fiddy and more posi
                  1995 Mercury Grand Marquis LS - Modular powah
                  1995 Ford F150 XL - Tow pig

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by MattODoom
                    Mine runs 180, down from 220 stock, but, thats largely because at 165 EFI will not be warm enough for the O2 sensor to operate properly. 170 is about as low as you wanna go with EFI.

                    hmm, friday I drove my car 25 miles home and my car stayed at 165* the whole time. Had the HP tuners monitoring it the whole way home cuz I was playing with my tune. I also have a 160* thermo and my fans turn on at 185 right now I believe I have them set at
                    ------------------------------------------
                    2004 GMC Envoy - Tuned, Airraid Intake, rest stock
                    2005 Malibu - Stock, anyone have a ecotec factory gm supercharger for me? lol

                    5th gen Camaro V6 Forums
                    http://www.bowtiev6.com

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by 97rs4life
                      hmm, friday I drove my car 25 miles home and my car stayed at 165* the whole time. Had the HP tuners monitoring it the whole way home cuz I was playing with my tune. I also have a 160* thermo and my fans turn on at 185 right now I believe I have them set at

                      You drive a fourth gen, which likely has a heated oxygen sensor. The thirdgen TBI/TPI motors use a 1 wire O2 sensor.

                      Sooo its probably totally different. The thirdgen also has a set temperature threshold to go in to closed loop mode, and if the motor isnt running hot enough you might not reach it.

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                      • #12
                        ya but thats why they make dummy o2 sensors... but running at whatever temp is up to you i know some people that like it in the 180-210 range saying you get more power but just to be safe i keep mine cooler... id rather save a block then get an extra 5hp outta it...
                        Originally posted by Frank The Tank
                        Took the restrictor plate off to give the Red Dragon a little more juice. But it's not exactly street legal, so keep it on the down low.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by wezeles
                          ya but thats why they make dummy o2 sensors... but running at whatever temp is up to you i know some people that like it in the 180-210 range saying you get more power but just to be safe i keep mine cooler... id rather save a block then get an extra 5hp outta it...
                          You are definately not going to ruin a block running 180-210 degrees. From the factory these cars ran 220-225.

                          A hotter engine has reduced emissions, thats why they did it, it gives a fuller burn of the air & fuel.

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                          • #14
                            that and better engine effieciency as well as better ring seal thus creating less emissions.
                            -08 G8 GT DD: Rotofab CAI, HID's, Breyton Race GTS'
                            -86 Iroc Project: LQ4, Th400, S400, Ford 9"

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                            • #15
                              do i smell....yep, a little pwnage.

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