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  • #16
    Originally posted by WMCCjames View Post
    Just go through the standard drill....easy fix.

    Just going by memory..the ecm will shut off the injectors when the voltage drops below 10.5 volts, so no amount of "pumping" the gas will work.
    your thinking fords^. gm and most others are 9.6v
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    • #17
      Originally posted by lozanoa11 View Post
      your thinking fords^. gm and most others are 9.6v
      Actually, we are both wrong, I just pulled up a factory .bin file and the ecm will continue to add pulse width to the injector all the way down to 3.2 volts!!! Of coarse at that low of a voltage the car would not fire let alone turn over, wonder why GM did it that way?
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      • #18
        Well, not worrying about that - you guys think it sounds like a starter?

        My dad told me that a starter will "drain the battery" (exactly like I experienced) when it's dying.
        Gone but not forgotten: 1986 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z

        "You shall ride eternal. Shiny and chrome."

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        • #19
          Well if the car is cranking like normal and just not firing its deff not your starter its self. The starter would have nothing to do with the car not firing if its still cranking at full power(given your battery is not drained)


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          • #20
            Well, how would I test the starter?
            Gone but not forgotten: 1986 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z

            "You shall ride eternal. Shiny and chrome."

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            • #21
              I think autozone can test them.... that might just be alternators though, I'm not sure

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              • #22
                This thing's been a ***** to start lately - in the morning or when it's cold out.

                Fuel pump is priming, and it'll start just fine throughout the day - any ideas? I'm getting close to just buying an FPR, but I really don't want to spend $100 to not fix the problem.
                Gone but not forgotten: 1986 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z

                "You shall ride eternal. Shiny and chrome."

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                • #23
                  A starter can draw to much current, if it sounds like it is turning over fast enough and not slow then you have a no start that is most likely fuel or ignition related. I suggest you look at the A-3 chart and go from there.
                  http://www.chevythunder.com/ses_chart_a3a.htm
                  You might want to invest in a fuel pressure gauge and a noid light. I paid 20 for my noid light and 35 for my gauge but you can find the gauges for 26 on Amazon, it is a Actron guage.
                  Last edited by tf34mechh; June 1st, 2008, 12:09 AM.

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                  • #24
                    Man, that car would not start!

                    I got home from work, checked the fuel pressure and it was holding at 47-50 - so the fuel pressure is completely fine (when the ignition was turned off, it did not decrease very fast - also another check for fuel pressure), and once we tried to start it, it took about 5-10 seconds to do so. This morning it took about a minute.

                    So, now the focus is not on the FPR anymore, since that would kill my fuel pressure, should it be bad.

                    Ideas, anyone?
                    Gone but not forgotten: 1986 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z

                    "You shall ride eternal. Shiny and chrome."

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by tf34mechh View Post
                      A starter can draw to much current, if it sounds like it is turning over fast enough and not slow then you have a no start that is most likely fuel or ignition related. I suggest you look at the A-3 chart and go from there.
                      http://www.chevythunder.com/ses_chart_a3a.htm
                      You might want to invest in a fuel pressure gauge and a noid light. I paid 20 for my noid light and 35 for my gauge but you can find the gauges for 26 on Amazon, it is a Actron guage.
                      That list is great!
                      I would run through theses checks!!!

                      If it was me I would be checking Cap, Rotor, Coil and Timing.
                      But if you go through the list that was provided by TF34MECHH you should figure it out.

                      Are your Injectors stock?
                      How many miles are on them?



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