Welcome to the Michigan FBody Association website.
The Michigan FBody Association is a centralized website for FBody enthusiasts to discuss what's going on in the Michigan area. MiFbody.com was created to allow for an easy one-stop place to find out what's going on in Michigan as far as FBody events, to find out what clubs are available in your immediate area, and for an easy place to post classifieds for items you want to sell! Our goal was to create a more close-knit community of FBody enthusiasts in the state of Michigan, and to bring Camaro and Firebird enthusiasts alike together for some amazing FBody events!
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Any of us LT1 guys have this tool? It's a Kent Moore j-39046. It makes removing and installing the crank hub a breeze. Just want to know if anybody has one they'd let me borrow before I consider buying one.
Can't you just use a threaded rod? That's what I used to put the crank hub back on mine.
1996 Camaro Z28 cam, heads, stall, and a few other goodies Alumni Member, MSU Racing Club THREE-PEAT MiFbody Meet & Greet "Longest Hauler Award" 2010, 2011, 2012
Originally posted by JasonH
It's amazing what you can get done when you throw copious amounts of money at something.
Make sure whatever you use is bottomed out in the crank and you'll be fine. Use a normal puller with a short piece of threaded rod bottomed out in the crank as the surface the puller pushes against. To install, longer piece of same rod with a bunch of washers and a nut works really well in my experience. Again, the key to making sure your threads stay in tact is to make sure the threaded food is bottomed out so the stress is on the crank and not the threads themselves.
Make sure whatever you use is bottomed out in the crank and you'll be fine. Use a normal puller with a short piece of threaded rod bottomed out in the crank as the surface the puller pushes against. To install, longer piece of same rod with a bunch of washers and a nut works really well in my experience. Again, the key to making sure your threads stay in tact is to make sure the threaded food is bottomed out so the stress is on the crank and not the threads themselves.
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So is what you are saying is, basically get a bolt the same size and thread pitch as the crank bolt? Then allow a nut to push the hub in? This makes it much simpler... Thank you so greatly.
Yes, but the bolt either has to be super long or you should just use threaded rod. The problem with too short of a bolt is that once the hub comes out a bit it'll hit the bolt head, forcing you to have to back the bolt out thus it is no longer bottomed out into the crank and the stress is now on the threads.
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