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Curious about the 383 stroker motor.....Have a few questions!

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  • Curious about the 383 stroker motor.....Have a few questions!

    Hey everyone, I have been doing some reading about the 383 stroker motor and had a few questions. First off, from what I have read so far, a 383 stroker is actually built from a Chevy SB 350 block with a stroker crank, correct?....If I was going to build my lt1 350 into a 383 stroker, how would be the best way to approach this? I'm assuming the motor would have to be removed in order to remove the crank? Can anyone recommend good parts to use that are affordable? Also, does anyone sell the complete 383 kit? I'm sure I'm missing a lot of stuff here but I'm trying to learn so any help or information on building this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!.....
    Thanks,
    Stephen

    -----------------------
    1997 Z28 LT1 - A4 30th Anniversary



  • #2
    I would want the bearing tolerances checked/configured by an engine builder, so no way id ever do it in the car. But youve got the jist of it. The 350 achieves that cubic inch using a 4" bore and a 3.5" stroke crank. For comparison a 327 uses the same bore with 3.25" crank, and the old dz302s also used a 4" bore with a 3" crank. The 383 uses a 3.75" crank. (also known as using a 400 crank in a 350, 400 blocks are 4.2" bore). You will probably also need to change rods and pistons to ensure your pistons are compressing to the correct height.
    Last edited by JoeliusZ28; November 3rd, 2013, 10:42 PM.
    -Joel
    1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
    1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


    WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by JoeliusZ28 View Post
      I would want the bearing tolerances checked/configured by an engine builder, so no way id ever do it in the car. But youve got the jist of it. The 350 achieves that cubic inch using a 4" bore and a 3.5" stroke crank. For comparison a 327 uses the same bore with 3.25" crank, and the old dz302s also used a 4" bore with a 3" crank. The 383 uses a 3.75" crank. (also known as using a 400 crank in a 350, 400 blocks are 4.2" bore). You will probably also need to change rods and pistons to ensure your pistons are compressing to the correct height.
      Thanks Joelius, I just installed the CAI and think I'm just gonna do a cam right now....with my motor being stock except for the CAI and exhaust, what would be a good cam that my motor would benefit from? I'm gonna do long tubes pretty soon also.
      Thanks,
      Stephen

      -----------------------
      1997 Z28 LT1 - A4 30th Anniversary


      Comment


      • #4
        383 builds are common, but not cheap. Blocks need to be clearanced, connecting rod bolts often hit the cam lobes. Not sure if they make a crank for the LT1 that can use the 5.7" rods. If not, you need 6" rods and new pistons. Likely a $1000 just for parts, cheap ones at that.

        Cam swap will require:
        cam (duh) - used cams can be found cheap. New cams start around $240
        springs, seats, retainers, locks, etc - $225 to $300 depending one what you choose
        hardened pushrods - $100

        new lifters? double roller timing chain? rocker studs and guide plates for NSA rockers? Cha-ching.

        1998 Camaro Z28 - Bright Red, 6.0 TR224, 4l60e, 3.42 Eaton TrueTrac
        1989 Camaro IROC-Z Convertible - 355 big tube TPI, WC T5, 3.42 Zexel Torsen, CTS-V/C4 brakes
        1955 Bel Air 2 Door Post - 357 TPI, Muncie M20, 4 wheel disc

        2006 Saab 9-7x 5.3i Daily Driver

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by hoogiesngrinderz View Post
          383 builds are common, but not cheap. Blocks need to be clearanced, connecting rod bolts often hit the cam lobes. Not sure if they make a crank for the LT1 that can use the 5.7" rods. If not, you need 6" rods and new pistons. Likely a $1000 just for parts, cheap ones at that.

          Cam swap will require:
          cam (duh) - used cams can be found cheap. New cams start around $240
          springs, seats, retainers, locks, etc - $225 to $300 depending one what you choose
          hardened pushrods - $100

          new lifters? double roller timing chain? rocker studs and guide plates for NSA rockers? Cha-ching.

          You are looking at minimum $1500 to do a cam, $2000 to do it right and get the most out of it.

          You can only use a double roller with an electric water pump.
          That being said the LT4 Extreme Duty is a nice setup.

          If you plan on a 383, you should wait and plan everything out first, while saving money.
          A cam that works well in a 350 likely won't be making peak tq and hp in a 383 where it should.

          Lloyd Elliot of Elliot's Port works or Advanced Induction will help you make the most of your setup.
          sigpic

          1996 Base Model
          +2 cylinder mod

          Comment


          • #6
            Not sure why you keeps saying $1500 minimum, because I have done a handful over the years...most were about a third of that.

            Granted, I did gather parts over a period of time and doing so saved quite a bit of money. Great deals can be found

            1998 Camaro Z28 - Bright Red, 6.0 TR224, 4l60e, 3.42 Eaton TrueTrac
            1989 Camaro IROC-Z Convertible - 355 big tube TPI, WC T5, 3.42 Zexel Torsen, CTS-V/C4 brakes
            1955 Bel Air 2 Door Post - 357 TPI, Muncie M20, 4 wheel disc

            2006 Saab 9-7x 5.3i Daily Driver

            Comment


            • #7
              I spent 2k on my cam swap including a valve job, but that was 5 years ago prices have gone up since then.
              Last edited by JoeliusZ28; November 4th, 2013, 06:50 PM.
              -Joel
              1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
              1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


              WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop

              Comment


              • #8
                Don't take this as rude but I feel like you need to have a little more under your belt before you do a 383 LT1 build.

                Having just got a CIA, I would get full bolt ons/ supporting mods would be a good first step.
                1998 Chevrolet Camaro Z28 - 6 Speed

                Comment


                • #9
                  I don't have much more than that into the entire engine for the 89 Free parts, knowing the machinist, and doing all the assembly myself (besides the heads) saved well over a grand on the total budget.

                  Not trying to argue, just saying that it can be done and not a major chunk of change. Much of it depends on what/who you know. Proven combos are nice, and generally not cheap, but there aren't many proven combos for TPI cars

                  1998 Camaro Z28 - Bright Red, 6.0 TR224, 4l60e, 3.42 Eaton TrueTrac
                  1989 Camaro IROC-Z Convertible - 355 big tube TPI, WC T5, 3.42 Zexel Torsen, CTS-V/C4 brakes
                  1955 Bel Air 2 Door Post - 357 TPI, Muncie M20, 4 wheel disc

                  2006 Saab 9-7x 5.3i Daily Driver

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by hoogiesngrinderz View Post
                    I don't have much more than that into the entire engine for the 89 Free parts, knowing the machinist, and doing all the assembly myself (besides the heads) saved well over a grand on the total budget.

                    Not trying to argue, just saying that it can be done and not a major chunk of change. Much of it depends on what/who you know. Proven combos are nice, and generally not cheap, but there aren't many proven combos for TPI cars
                    The average person may not be connected, so the other prices are really more realistic.
                    sigpic
                    1998 Trans Am Convertible A4 - WS6 hood, WS6 air lid, WS6 rims, drilled/slotted rotors.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Agreed. Just wanted to show that it isn't always 1500 minimum.

                      Edit:
                      I also really liked John's comment about taking your time to plan everything out. This is the #1 thing, I cannot emphasize it enough. Sloppy plans waste time and a great deal of money!
                      Last edited by hoogiesngrinderz; November 4th, 2013, 08:32 PM.

                      1998 Camaro Z28 - Bright Red, 6.0 TR224, 4l60e, 3.42 Eaton TrueTrac
                      1989 Camaro IROC-Z Convertible - 355 big tube TPI, WC T5, 3.42 Zexel Torsen, CTS-V/C4 brakes
                      1955 Bel Air 2 Door Post - 357 TPI, Muncie M20, 4 wheel disc

                      2006 Saab 9-7x 5.3i Daily Driver

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by nascarnate326 View Post
                        Don't take this as rude but I feel like you need to have a little more under your belt before you do a 383 LT1 build.

                        Having just got a CIA, I would get full bolt ons/ supporting mods would be a good first step.
                        He just had the heads off (assuming for a valve job) and installed longtube headers in another thread.
                        -Joel
                        1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
                        1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


                        WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by JoeliusZ28 View Post
                          He just had the heads off (assuming for a valve job) and installed longtube headers in another thread.
                          Wasn't that zeeman?

                          1998 Camaro Z28 - Bright Red, 6.0 TR224, 4l60e, 3.42 Eaton TrueTrac
                          1989 Camaro IROC-Z Convertible - 355 big tube TPI, WC T5, 3.42 Zexel Torsen, CTS-V/C4 brakes
                          1955 Bel Air 2 Door Post - 357 TPI, Muncie M20, 4 wheel disc

                          2006 Saab 9-7x 5.3i Daily Driver

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by hoogiesngrinderz View Post
                            Wasn't that zeeman?
                            doh, youre right, i am losing it today ...
                            -Joel
                            1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
                            1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


                            WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by JoeliusZ28 View Post
                              doh, youre right, i am losing it today ...
                              Crack a cold one. I had to

                              1998 Camaro Z28 - Bright Red, 6.0 TR224, 4l60e, 3.42 Eaton TrueTrac
                              1989 Camaro IROC-Z Convertible - 355 big tube TPI, WC T5, 3.42 Zexel Torsen, CTS-V/C4 brakes
                              1955 Bel Air 2 Door Post - 357 TPI, Muncie M20, 4 wheel disc

                              2006 Saab 9-7x 5.3i Daily Driver

                              Comment

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