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I need to re-do my valve adjustment this week. I'm wondering if somebody could help walk me through it and make sure it's done right, I already did it wrong once, so I'm paranoid of doing it wrong again. I would feel much, much better about it if somebody who's done it a number of times before and really knows what they're doing could help. I have plenty of cold beers in the fridge I can do between 5-7 on Monday or Tuesday or anytime after 5 on Wednesday.
1996 Camaro Z28 cam, heads, stall, and a few other goodies Alumni Member, MSU Racing Club THREE-PEAT MiFbody Meet & Greet "Longest Hauler Award" 2010, 2011, 2012
Originally posted by JasonH
It's amazing what you can get done when you throw copious amounts of money at something.
Simplest way imo is to take one valve cover off, and start backing a rocker arm nut off until it starts ticking, when it gets to that point, tighten 1/4 turn tighter, then move onto the next one.
2015 Silverado
Originally posted by JoeliusZ28
If you need 6 and half grand to break your tires loose you shouldnt be attempting a holeshot.
I highly prefer the engine-off method. It takes longer, but i couldnt figure out how to get any kind of uniformality with it running. The way you do it is turn the engine over by hand until a particular valve is at base-height (valve closed), then loosen the rocker up until you can spin the pushrod with your fingers (zero-lash). Then decide how far past that you want to go. Seems like every set of lifters is somewhat different. I tried to lash mine just a little less than halfway between zero-lash and bottomed out, which I believe was 1/3 turn of the wrench. I had tried 1/4 turn and 1/2 turn before that. 1/4 turn seemed noisy and 1/2 turn seemed like it might have been binding slightly.
Its really not rocket science and it wont hurt if you are a "little off." Just use your instinct to get it as best you can and it will be fine.
edit: I'd come help, but I am booked with homework this week... only reason im still up now actually
Last edited by JoeliusZ28; October 21st, 2012, 10:02 PM.
Simplest way imo is to take one valve cover off, and start backing a rocker arm nut off until it starts ticking, when it gets to that point, tighten 1/4 turn tighter, then move onto the next one.
I agree 100%. After messing with dad's setup, I would never do it with the engine off again. It's much more "accurate" in my opinion to back off until you hear the clicking, then just tighten it back until the clicking stops, and 1/4th turn past that for preload. Doing the "drag test" with your fingers is too subjective compared to hearing a clicking noise.
I agree 100%. After messing with dad's setup, I would never do it with the engine off again. It's much more "accurate" in my opinion to back off until you hear the clicking, then just tighten it back until the clicking stops, and 1/4th turn past that for preload. Doing the "drag test" with your fingers is too subjective compared to hearing a clicking noise.
I didnt find the drag test subjective at all. It was a surprisingly defined line on my setup, probably No more than a 16th of a turn made the difference between the pushrod spinning freely and me being unable to budge it. Also i think the listening method lends easier to a stock cam and rockers....1.6rrs and a cam with more lift are not exactly quiet even when properly adjusted. But that said im not trying to push one method over the other. Do what you feel most comfortable with. I remember you saying you had stock rockers so maybe engine running method will be better.
I didnt find the drag test subjective at all. It was a surprisingly defined line on my setup, probably No more than a 16th of a turn made the difference between the pushrod spinning freely and me being unable to budge it. Also i think the listening method lends easier to a stock cam and rockers....1.6rrs and a cam with more lift are not exactly quiet even when properly adjusted. But that said im not trying to push one method over the other. Do what you feel most comfortable with. I remember you saying you had stock rockers so maybe engine running method will be better.
Good point - 1.6 pro mag rollers would probably make it harder to hear the clicking.
Yeah, like I just said in my project thread, I think I'm going to try it with the engine running this time. It sounds more unpleasant, but more foolproof.
1996 Camaro Z28 cam, heads, stall, and a few other goodies Alumni Member, MSU Racing Club THREE-PEAT MiFbody Meet & Greet "Longest Hauler Award" 2010, 2011, 2012
Originally posted by JasonH
It's amazing what you can get done when you throw copious amounts of money at something.
Yeah, like I just said in my project thread, I think I'm going to try it with the engine running this time. It sounds more unpleasant, but more foolproof.
Like I said in your other thread. Do it running. Get an old valve cover and cut the center out. It will minimize the oil mess.You will be able to hear and feel the rocker tapping with your fingers and definitely through the ratchet with a socket. Do one side at a time. Go slow and loosen each one until it starts to clack. Tighten until the clack goes away then go about a half a turn more.
If you're using poly locks take into account how much the poly lock turns when you tighten it. And don't forget to tighten that poly lock as you're moving along.You don't want to tighten it only to come back 30 seconds later because it is noisy. Good Luck.
95' Formula: A4, 3.23'S, K&N CAI, Granatelli MAF, Trickflow Elbow, tune from previous owner. Best 1/4 of 13.91.
1996 Camaro Z28 cam, heads, stall, and a few other goodies Alumni Member, MSU Racing Club THREE-PEAT MiFbody Meet & Greet "Longest Hauler Award" 2010, 2011, 2012
Originally posted by JasonH
It's amazing what you can get done when you throw copious amounts of money at something.
They are a nut with an allen headed jam nut used to secure the rocker and its adjustment. mostly used with roller rockers. if you just have the normal interferance type nut then disregard that part of my post.
95' Formula: A4, 3.23'S, K&N CAI, Granatelli MAF, Trickflow Elbow, tune from previous owner. Best 1/4 of 13.91.
Hydraulic Flat Tappet? Or Solid ?
When i ran Hydraulic Flat Tappet Cams i adjusted always with motor running to dial in better. back it off til it clacks then adjust til you dont hear it anymore then go 1/4 turn past it. Lock the lock and call it a day. Loosen your valve covers and start the car then remove one side at a time doing one side at a time with it running shouldnt make a mess at idle speeds. Oil should just flow down from the rockers.
Solid cams are adjusted with engine off. Theres a chart i have somewhere for adjusting thats how i learned but at TDC Cylinder 1 you adjust some of them and at every 90 Degrees of rotation you can make adjustments to certain ones. The reason im not a big fan of adjusting a Hydraulic without it running is you may over tighten one or not tighten it enough and still have to do it agian and again.
I used to adjust mine 2-3 times a day at the track between runs.
1996 Camaro Z28 cam, heads, stall, and a few other goodies Alumni Member, MSU Racing Club THREE-PEAT MiFbody Meet & Greet "Longest Hauler Award" 2010, 2011, 2012
Originally posted by JasonH
It's amazing what you can get done when you throw copious amounts of money at something.
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