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  • LT1 Cam Choices

    Its finally getting to that time everyone. I am seriously researching cams for my car. Got the Mrs on board, will soon have a garage of my own to do work and financially stable.

    For those that dont know my cars current status:

    1996 Z28 with stock LT1
    174,000 miles
    Non original T56
    Newer stock replacement clutch rated for 450HP
    Stainless LT headers, ORY, Hooker Exhaust
    No cats, egr, or air pump
    Tuned by ion.
    Stock 10 bolt that got rebuilt at 140k.
    Iron Driveshaft
    17" ten spokes with new tires
    Eibach Pro Kit with new shocks


    While it has high miles the car is pretty darn clean if I do say so for its age/miles. The current plan is to do this swap this fall/winter after we get all the house stuff done.

    For as much as I have wanted a 5.3 in the past, I realize its just not the smart road to take given my cars current config.
    For as much as I have wanted a hotcam in the past, I realize its just not going to be a long term package.

    Goals: I hate this question/term. I know someones going to ask so Ill lay it down now. I want a fun, fast, reliable, cheap, car that gets decent gas mileage and can go anywhere. Pretty sure I am not going to get all of those, but thats what I would like. Car never sees a track. I want a bad ass idle more than anything else. Second would be a car that pulls well down low and is not something that I have to rev to the moon to get moving, I love the "hunker down and go" that my car currently has when I punch it from 2500 rpm. Also tired of being so much slower than Joel, Scott, Kolin, Fred, Brian...ya everyone basically. lol


    These are the three I am looking at right now.

    Ai 226 / 234 - .566" / .566" - 110 LSA
    • Easily our most popular daily drivable grind for 350cid applications. Typically makes peak power at 6000-6200rpm in stock LT1 long blocks. Properly tuned it will run and drive well in M6 cars w/ stock gearing. A4 cars should run a 3.42+ rear end gear & 2400 rpm converter minimum. Can pass emissions in some states on 110° LSA, though 112-114° LSA makes it more likely to pa

    Ai 230 / 238 - .566" / .566" - 110 LSA
    • An excellent choice for 3.73-4.10 geared M6 cars. Typically makes peak power at 6200-6400rpm in stock LT1 long blocks. A4 cars need 3.73 gearing & a minimum 3400 rpm converter.


    Lloyd Elliott 226/232 .578/.574 110 LSA. – 1900-6200 RPM

    NON-EMISSIONS version of 223/230 cam mentioned above. Mild to choppy idle.
    Good HP/TQ through out and a very usable power band. Best choice for “most people”
    using stock bottom end. Minimum 2800 stall and 3.42 gears for B body. Comparable to
    Comp 467 XFI cam.

    Give me your thoughts, opinions, stories, bs, whatever. I dont really know what the big difference would be between all of these packages. I have talked to Ai and Elliot and both said that an "off the shelf" cam would be fine for me and recommended the above choices.
    1998 Chevrolet Camaro Z28 - 6 Speed

  • #2
    When you say the hot cam wouldn't be a "long term package", what do you mean? You think you wouldn't like it? I don't know how long of a term your bottom end will survive spinning 6k+ with that many miles.
    2015 Silverado

    Originally posted by JoeliusZ28
    If you need 6 and half grand to break your tires loose you shouldnt be attempting a holeshot.

    Comment


    • #3
      Buy my cam and be done with it.. You say you want torque at 2500 rpm, mine fits the bill. Im making nearly PEAK torque by then and carrying it all the way until redline. Probably one of the few cams around that's fun under 3500 rpm, and at 6400 rpm. Only thing to keep in mind is i also raised my conpression which helps with torque.

      Last edited by JoeliusZ28; July 4th, 2012, 09:25 AM.
      -Joel
      1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
      1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


      WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by Boost Addict View Post
        When you say the hot cam wouldn't be a "long term package", what do you mean? You think you wouldn't like it? I don't know how long of a term your bottom end will survive spinning 6k+ with that many miles.
        agreed and i think you kind of answered your own question there because the hotcam has nothing down low... Which means youre gonna be revving her up all the time to have any fun. They make good power up top, freds old car with one and a 4.10 held on right next to me.
        -Joel
        1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
        1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


        WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop

        Comment


        • #5
          I have the Lloyd Elliott cam you posted up. I really enjoy it.

          They say: fast, reliable, cheap. You can pick 2 of the 3.

          Are you going to get it bored over or keep it stock?
          I would suggest at least arp rod and main bolts.

          I really with my camera was working so I could post up a few good videos

          Edit: the only reason I chose my cam over joels was price ($100 cheaper) and they didn't have any in stock, I would have waited 3 weeks for them to get some in plus shipping time.
          Last edited by mcalus; July 4th, 2012, 09:45 AM.
          2002 Z28 Camaro A4
          1993 Z28 Camaro M6- SOLD
          1999 Z28 Camaro M6- SOLD
          2008 Ford Fusion SE - DD
          -- MCALUS MOLDED PILLAR PODS, PM ME FOR MORE INFO--
          sigpic

          Comment


          • #6
            Since you're not looking to go to the track, you're better off to slightly undercam than overcam. I know I have an LS1 but the 224r that I am running is perfect for what I wanted. Nice idle but still pulls hard up top.
            When in doubt, Whip it out !

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by mcalus View Post
              I have the Lloyd Elliott cam you posted up. I really enjoy it.

              They say: fast, reliable, cheap. You can pick 2 of the 3.

              Are you going to get it bored over or keep it stock?
              I would suggest at least arp rod and main bolts.

              I really with my camera was working so I could post up a few good videos

              Edit: the only reason I chose my cam over joels was price ($100 cheaper) and they didn't have any in stock, I would have waited 3 weeks for them to get some in plus shipping time.
              Ive been fine without arp rod bolts but thats definitely a good idea if you can swing it. That and the white oil pump spring especially will go a long way. Youll need to pull the engine but i think thats a good idea anyway.

              If guessing the difference between the LE and AI cams are negligible. Go for whatever is cheaper.
              -Joel
              1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
              1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


              WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop

              Comment


              • #8
                Lloyd is a great guy to talk to on the phone. You could give him a call and he will make whatever cam you want. Just tell him what you want to do with the car and he will tell you what he thinks is best for you. It doesn't cost any more and I think turn around time is 2-3 weeks. Lloyd use to have an issue with running a billet cam gear that would eat up the oil drive gears, but now he uses a cast gear. Comp cams still use a billet gear, which is okay, you just need to upgrade your oil drive drive gear to billet to match. Brian made a thread about what happened to his car when the gears are different materials.
                Last edited by ryanwarby01; July 4th, 2012, 12:12 PM.
                sigpic

                355 LT1 M6. 232/240 LE cam. 21* Trick Flow heads. Fully ported intake. 58mm TPIS tb. 42# SVO Injectors. LS7 Lifters. Moser 9" TrueTrac w/ 4.22 gears. True Duals. UMI Suspension. LS1 brake swap. Dr. Phil tuned 400ish rwhp. Money Pit.

                Comment


                • #9
                  You'd be happy with any of those three.


                  Mine is 228/236 .576/.571 110LSA and I am very happy with how it pulls from idle to 6500
                  sigpic

                  1996 Base Model
                  +2 cylinder mod

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    donkey dick it and be done!

                    2011 Mustang GT
                    20" Satin Black AMRs with 305/35 & 275/35 MT Street Radials, Saleen Grille, CS Lower Valance, Roush Axleback, GT500 Spoiler, resonator delete

                    In Progress: Brembo 6-piston brake upgrade


                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Nate I'll sell you my engine, throttle body to oil pan
                      2015 Silverado

                      Originally posted by JoeliusZ28
                      If you need 6 and half grand to break your tires loose you shouldnt be attempting a holeshot.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I'll sell you my car,.already cammed. . . . .lol
                        - 2012 Mustang GT 5.0 - M6 / Brembo Package / 3.73 / Bama Tune / Catless X / Corsa Xtreme /
                        - 2006 TBSS 2wd - Nitrous Grind Cam / Stainless Works LT's / Nitrous Works / FMStune / IeatSRT CAI / Stg 6 Trans / Kbee Coilovers / SOLD
                        - 1997 Camaro - Crane 234 242 / PortedPolishedMilled / Kooks / Borla / CompClutch / pro5.0 / 4.10's / SLP / SOLD
                        - 2008 G8 GT - Kooks / Vararam / HSRK / FMStune / SOLD
                        sigpic

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Boost Addict View Post
                          When you say the hot cam wouldn't be a "long term package", what do you mean? You think you wouldn't like it? I don't know how long of a term your bottom end will survive spinning 6k+ with that many miles.

                          Means I will enjoy it for a year and then want more. I think my bottom end will survive just fine, rev limiter is 6k and I usually shut it down around 5k.
                          1998 Chevrolet Camaro Z28 - 6 Speed

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I had the Comp Cams 503 grind in the past. IMO it is a nice middle of the road compromise that gets reasonable fuel economy, sounds bad a=s and can run very good e.t.s. I ran a best et of 12.6x with that cam (no head work) and probably could have got into the low 12's with a better launch. As far as dyno numbers I put down 340 rwhp with that cam (again, no head work). When I was cruising with the cutouts open I received several complements about the sound and some people even asked what kind of engine I had in my car.

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