Looking into 1.6 roller rockers...

[alone_and_insane]

Like the title says, I'm looking into doing 1.6 roller rockers as my next major mod. I've been thinking of doing this for a while. I have a bad lifter that I would like to address this summer, so I figured that would be the time to do it. More money, but not any more work. I know that I should upgrade to LT4 valve springs with this mod, but I have a few questions yet:

• what's the difference between self-aligning and non self-aligning rockers?
• I've seen a few rockers that say they have a 1.5 offset. What does this mean? I think I've gathered that with stock cam/heads I shouldn't use those, but I'd still like to know what it means.
• Are stock pushrods fine?
• Are ported intake manifold and 58mm TB must-dos with this mod? / do you suggest that I do those as well?
• Will I be needing new valve covers? If so, do you have any suggestions?

As mentioned, I will be sticking with stock cam and stock heads. I have a bit over a month before I would doing these mods, so I'm starting my research now. Any inputs would be appreciated. Also, I plan on a tune later this summer as well.

[jderry]

• what's the difference between self-aligning and non self-aligning rockers?

Just that, one is self aligning, meaning the rockers have little "nubs" that center the pushrod. NSA or non self aligning require guide plates.

• Are stock pushrods fine?

Might as well spend the $100 on some new stock length trickflows

• Are ported intake manifold and 58mm TB must-dos with this mod? / do you suggest that I do those as well?

No, my cammed engine does not require 58mm TB. With the lift going from 450 460 to 480 491 you should be fine with stock.

Will I be needing new valve covers? If so, do you have any suggestions?

Depends on the rockers. My 1.6 ratio Comp Ultra Pro Magnums did not require even having to modify the stock ones.

[98blackbeauty]

Well I guess it depends on your budget and how much work you want to do. to replace lifters you don't have to pull the heads, to replace rockers to 1.6 ratio you need to change valve springs. This can be done without pulling heads but is a pain. If your going to do all that work I would drop the engine, add headers, pull heads and have valves seals/guilds done and valves reseated. add cam to the mix. Your throttle body is more than adequate.

[meissen]

I agree with John. You don't need to upgrade the throttle body or the intake manifold - but I would invest in hardened push rods so you won't have to worry about flex. I personally would go with NSA and guide plates. While it sounds like "these don't align so I'm having to get guide plates to fix that" from what I've seen it's really better to go with the guide plates than not. Granted you still have a stock cam so it's not like you have aggressive lopes that could cause issues, but I'd still want that assurance that the guide plates are making my pushrods line up correctly.

[alone_and_insane]

I already have headers and full exhaust. Good to know about the intake manifold and throttle body. Changing the valve springs is really that big of a pain? I would rather not remove the heads, and I'm definitely not dropping the engine (I want to still be able to do all this work at my apartment, I don't have a garage). I'll definitely look into those Comp Ultra Pro Magnums. I'm afraid that getting taller valve covers will just lead to more issues with clearance and whatnot, so keeping with the stockers would be nice. So why exactly is it better to have NSA rockers with guide plates than to have self-aligning?

[meissen]

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but with self aligning rockers the only thing that keeps your rocker perfectly centered on the valve stem is the little ridges. In other words, there's that slight chance that when you're up in the RPMs that the rocker could twist and fall off the valve stem. With the guide plates, it keeps everything perfectly aligned so you don't have to worry about it.

[98blackbeauty]

I already have headers and full exhaust. Good to know about the intake manifold and throttle body. Changing the valve springs is really that big of a pain? I would rather not remove the heads, and I'm definitely not dropping the engine (I want to still be able to do all this work at my apartment, I don't have a garage). I'll definitely look into those Comp Ultra Pro Magnums. I'm afraid that getting taller valve covers will just lead to more issues with clearance and whatnot, so keeping with the stockers would be nice. So why exactly is it better to have NSA rockers with guide plates than to have self-aligning?

to change the valve springs with out pulling heads you need an air compressor to inject air in the cylinder to hold up the valves. this means pulling each spark plug and putting it back. That is a huge pain with headers. I don't know what you feel your going to accomplish changing rockers to 1:6 with out doing cam. Seems like a waste of money and time with little to no gain in performance.

[alone_and_insane]

Little to no gain in performance? I thought that 1.6 rr's would give me a reasonable (if not huge) gain, even with the stock cam.

[meissen]

It's definitely a bit of work and IMHO would make more sense to do a hotcam or something in the process, but upgrading to 1.6 full roller rockers is definitely an upgrade over stock. I don't know how noticeable it will be in the butt dyno, though... From what I understand you may see 5-10hp. Where your main advantage is from is the roller tip causing less heat/friction compared to the stamped rockers.

Edit: Thread on LS1tech- "There was an article in GMHTP about rockers and they picked up 12 rwhp going from stock stamped to 1.6 roller tipped and then another 8 rwhp going from roller tipped to full roller."

Same thread says stall and gears will net you a much larger butt dyno increase.

http://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-mo...-up-my-hp.html

[nascarnate326]

For $600 just get the whole hotcam kit. Its proven and cheap. Keep the RPM's at a moderate level and it will last too.

[meissen]

For $600 just get the whole hotcam kit. Its proven and cheap. Keep the RPM's at a moderate level and it will last too.

Agreed 100%.

[alone_and_insane]

hmm...you guys certainly make a good point. I dunno, my goal with this car was 300whp with stock cam. I would still like to see that happen, and I thought rr's and a tune would be enough to finally get me there.

[jderry]

hmm...you guys certainly make a good point. I dunno, my goal with this car was 300whp with stock cam. I would still like to see that happen, and I thought rr's and a tune would be enough to finally get me there.

It might be, but you'll always want more power. And at this point you'll get more of it for the same money.

[Sic96]

hmm...you guys certainly make a good point. I dunno, my goal with this car was 300whp with stock cam. I would still like to see that happen, and I thought rr's and a tune would be enough to finally get me there.

Well a 96 Camaro comes stock with 285hp. Now according to Joseph Potak, who has written many books on F-bodies, and definitely knows his shit, he claims these cars were actually dynoing at 285 or higher(at the wheels) from the factory. That being said, If you already have headers and a full exhaust(and a CAI), you should be well over 300rwhp with a tune if your car is in normal running condition. I agree to do the hotcam kit, it don't sound like you're trying to get too crazy with this car, so I'm sure that kit would be far sufficient for what you're going for. But believe me, you're already over 300hp with a tune

[meissen]

The hot cam is such a mild cam that it wouldn't ruin drivability or reliability any. It'd be a nice upgrade.