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  • battery relocate help

    Well I'm in the process of lightening the front of may car as much as possible, while also cleaning up the engine bay as much as possible. I just deleted all HVAC, and am getting ready to put the firewall delete plate on, and then re-installing the dash after that. While doing this, I'm also deleted the EGR system. The only big thing I have left is the battery! I want that thing gone, and sitting on the rear axle!
    My question.. has anyone done this, relocated the battery to the rear? I know it's just a matter of running wires to the rear and mounting the batt. back there, but just curious about where the wires were ran, how hard it actually was, what all is invloved besides just "routing wires"?
    Pics of people's work would be great.. I really want to do this!
    Pacesetter LT's, Pacesetter ORY, full MSD ign., 2 step, rear LCA's, SFC's, B&M Ripper, poly motor mounts, Nitto NT05R's, WS6 wheels, KYB AGX adj. suspension, Eibach Sprotline springs, Trickflow elbow w/K&N, All HVAC deleted w/ delete panel, no AIR, No EGR

    96 Z28 Camaro M6
    2008 Silverado quad cab LTZ

  • #2
    I'm currently in the process myself and its not that simple. Depends on how legal you want it I suppose. BMR tray is not NHRA legal. It needs to be in a sealed box since its in the drivers compartment. You might as well install a disconnect switch while you're at it.

    As far as cable goes, a lot of people have chosen to use welding wire instead of battery cable. Its cheaper, there's more copper strands and its a little more flexible. I'd do some searching on the topic to get some better ideas.

    There's also a power distribution issue for some added accessories. If you run fans, dual pumps, or a nitrous setup you'll want some point near the front of the car to pull your 12v from.
    Last edited by shawnc16; April 2nd, 2012, 12:42 AM.
    -08 G8 GT DD: Rotofab CAI, HID's, Breyton Race GTS'
    -86 Iroc Project: LQ4, Th400, S400, Ford 9"

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    • #3
      Once you move that battery it opens up a can of worms as far as passing tech at the track. If your looking to be able to go to through tech it needs to be in a sealed box like Shawn said. It is suppose to have a vent hose to the outside of the car. It must have a switch at the back of the car, labeled On-Off. And must kill the car of all power when switched off. Which means that the main Alternator lead must also run through the switch. As far as power distribution boxes I found a couple nice ones off of a late model buick in the bone yard. I have one for keyed power, and one for full time power.

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      • #4
        agreed with it not being that simple however its on my to do list as well. A sealed box that isnt enormous seems to be the biggest challenge.
        -Joel
        1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
        1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


        WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop

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        • #5
          Originally posted by TB2 View Post
          Once you move that battery it opens up a can of worms as far as passing tech at the track. If your looking to be able to go to through tech it needs to be in a sealed box like Shawn said. It is suppose to have a vent hose to the outside of the car. It must have a switch at the back of the car, labeled On-Off. And must kill the car of all power when switched off. Which means that the main Alternator lead must also run through the switch. As far as power distribution boxes I found a couple nice ones off of a late model buick in the bone yard. I have one for keyed power, and one for full time power.
          I had no idea a switch out the back was mandatory. Is this just for hatchbacks? My uncles 70 cuda has a relocation and no switch. Used to race it all the time, but that was probably 10 years ago. A switch out the back makes this a lot less appealing...
          -Joel
          1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
          1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


          WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop

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          • #6
            Here's pics of my relocation. I ran my positive through the car, under the fender and into the engine bay. Wrapped everything real good and used fasteners to keep the wire from moving. I have not put a vented box in yet, nor a kill switch. Last year no one even noticed my battery was gone when I went through tech. I think it depends on the car as to how hard they look. I plan to make it legal this winter.. I used a 200 amp circuit breaker over a fuse, to date I have never tripped the breaker.. Lots of work, but I'm glad I did it. Pics below.






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            U.S. Army 1983-2005
            11.20@122.37 1.51 60'

            Originally posted by WMCCjames

            "Plans Subject to change upon Sobering up"

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            • #7
              Originally posted by JoeliusZ28 View Post
              I had no idea a switch out the back was mandatory. Is this just for hatchbacks? My uncles 70 cuda has a relocation and no switch. Used to race it all the time, but that was probably 10 years ago. A switch out the back makes this a lot less appealing...
              If you don't want to have an actual switch hanging off the back of your car, you can mount the switch inside the car and then run a rod out the back for a "Push on/off"

              then you can simply unthread the rod and throw it in your trunk if you don't want it sitting out there. I can grab some pictures of the setup later. my batter is in a box in the spare tire well. I made a "stand" out of some angle iron I believe for the box so it sits up in the tire well. the switch is mounted to where the spare tire well comes up and starts to go into the trunk area. when the whole speaker trim panel is put back on you don't see anything.

              with your car being black I'm sure you could find a black plug and pop it in the hole while the rod is not in place (i'm going to peel the bow tie off and move it over so it's centered. that's just where the hole happened to need to go so the rod went strait and didn't bind)

              as for the electrical....psshh I have no idea. Joe at Downriver Motorsport's Wiring did my entire car.
              Last edited by SS4Matt; April 2nd, 2012, 08:21 AM.
              1998 Camaro SS Bullseye Turbo
              2002 F-250 7.3 Leveled on 20s with 35's
              2006 Yamaha R6 50th Anniversary
              http://www.mifbody.com/vbulletin/sho...-Update/page11

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              • #8
                Wow clean setups guys! Definitely gives me some ideas. I like that idea Matt. What are you using for a sealed box? I want mine hidden under the factory plastic, the only setup i have seen so far intruded into the ttop area which im not willing to do.
                -Joel
                1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
                1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


                WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by JoeliusZ28 View Post
                  Wow clean setups guys! Definitely gives me some ideas. I like that idea Matt. What are you using for a sealed box? I want mine hidden under the factory plastic, the only setup i have seen so far intruded into the ttop area which im not willing to do.
                  I bought the plain aluminum battery box from summit. I think it's made by Taylor. And then like I said I built a stand so iit's not in the bottom of the tire well. When I get home from work I'll snap a picture for ya. You will need to run a top post mounted battery though.

                  edit. got home and took a couple pics. Don't mind the random wires there, I have my battery tender hooked up at the moment. it has a top that goes over the threaded rod and is held down by two wing nuts.

                  in the ON position

                  Box in the tire well. like I said I made some sort of 3 legged stand that is welded into the car under the box so the box would sit up higher/more accessible rather than being burried in the bottom of the spare tire well. you can see the cut off switch I welded the switch mount to the flat part, and the rod that sticks out of the back is just threaded onto a heim joint. you can just un screw the rod and throw it in your trunk when not at the track or anything and not have to worry about people effin with ya

                  all covered back up

                  Last edited by SS4Matt; April 2nd, 2012, 01:30 PM.
                  1998 Camaro SS Bullseye Turbo
                  2002 F-250 7.3 Leveled on 20s with 35's
                  2006 Yamaha R6 50th Anniversary
                  http://www.mifbody.com/vbulletin/sho...-Update/page11

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    the reason for needing an on/off switch from what i've been told is so that if you're in some nasty crash or whatever, officials can run up and shut your car off to keep from starting a fire/running your car while it's upside down or what have you....(just safety in general if someone else has the ability to shut your car off if you can't)
                    1998 Camaro SS Bullseye Turbo
                    2002 F-250 7.3 Leveled on 20s with 35's
                    2006 Yamaha R6 50th Anniversary
                    http://www.mifbody.com/vbulletin/sho...-Update/page11

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Yea i understand the reason for it, just not necessarily something i want to do. but oh well... Race car

                      Also Matt i remember your car being a plain jane, isnt that a 6 speaker stereo im seeing in these pics?
                      -Joel
                      1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
                      1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


                      WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by JoeliusZ28 View Post
                        I had no idea a switch out the back was mandatory. Is this just for hatchbacks? My uncles 70 cuda has a relocation and no switch. Used to race it all the time, but that was probably 10 years ago. A switch out the back makes this a lot less appealing...
                        Its not mandatory per se, it is a good idea. I think its faster than 9.99 when you need the cutoff switch by NHRA standards
                        -08 G8 GT DD: Rotofab CAI, HID's, Breyton Race GTS'
                        -86 Iroc Project: LQ4, Th400, S400, Ford 9"

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by JoeliusZ28 View Post
                          Yea i understand the reason for it, just not necessarily something i want to do. but oh well... Race car

                          Also Matt i remember your car being a plain jane, isnt that a 6 speaker stereo im seeing in these pics?
                          yeah it's pretty plane Jane, cloth int, hard top, no TCS..... Funny thing is, I need to buy a head unit, it has all the speakers and wiring in it still, but I ganked the head unit a year or so back for something else and never got a new one! indeed it has 6 speakers. I wasn't aware that was "special" every F-body i've ever paid close enough attention to had it (my parents 30th TA, and my buddys '96 Z I used to borrow/drive all the time). It is a race car inspired street car In all honesty, people can say what they want, but I did build my car to be a street able car that goes fast and has a lot of "race car" like features. If people wanna gimme shit about it to feel better about their car being slower in the 1/4....I'm alright with it. I built it for me
                          1998 Camaro SS Bullseye Turbo
                          2002 F-250 7.3 Leveled on 20s with 35's
                          2006 Yamaha R6 50th Anniversary
                          http://www.mifbody.com/vbulletin/sho...-Update/page11

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by shawnc16 View Post
                            Its not mandatory per se, it is a good idea. I think its faster than 9.99 when you need the cutoff switch by NHRA standards
                            My understanding of the rule is that the NHRA requires that any vehicle with a relocated battery must have a master disconnect switch installed on the exterior of the vehicle. There are no time requirements.


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                            • #15
                              Probably true, i thought i had read something out of the rulebook but it was likely a few years old.
                              -08 G8 GT DD: Rotofab CAI, HID's, Breyton Race GTS'
                              -86 Iroc Project: LQ4, Th400, S400, Ford 9"

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