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what should i buy? ls motor

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  • what should i buy? ls motor

    i want cheap easy horsepower here what i was thinking

    hoping u guys could also give me some advice on if this comes with everything i will need and if it good i have a aftermarket fuel pump "i hope" i was told he replaced it due to he thought thats why it failed to start but he said it was a performance one couldn't remember what it was though.. guess air/fuel gauge will help a lot though... but hoping my car can support this kit

    if it matters any i have a full exhaust "kooks" 3inch y pipe 243 casting heads..

    this is nitro kit i was looking to get i figure i will be running 150 shot most of the time but i want more in case i feel the need for a 250 or something
    http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...tem-35-300hp-/

    i know these hook up from 02 sensor but if my car has two o2 sensors what do i do then?
    http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...nd-o2-gauge-1/

    nitro gauge is as good as any i figure..
    http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...h-d6-manifold/

    and frame connectors im hoping have good ground clearance i dont want to weld on my frame thats why i chose this
    http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...tors-bolt-on-/

    also thought i could use some better rotors other than stock..
    http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...o-all-4-save-/

    Sub-Total: $1,873.65

    thanks for help guys
    2000 WS.6 Build <--- click to see
    1994 cummins turbo diesel 1million+ miles!! (rip dad)*my fathers old truck hell of a mechanic!

  • #2
    i also want a cam... but i dont want nothing major i want it to be very streetable "i daily drive it in summer"
    2000 WS.6 Build <--- click to see
    1994 cummins turbo diesel 1million+ miles!! (rip dad)*my fathers old truck hell of a mechanic!

    Comment


    • #3
      The air fuel gauge comes with its own sensor. It has nothing to do with your stock ones.

      As far as nitrous goes I wouldn't spray a 250 shot without race fuel so you'll need a seperate tank for the race fuel unless you wanna run race fuel through you stock tank and lines. I don't know but I think you would need a different tune to run your motor on 110.

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by 85z28kid View Post
        The air fuel gauge comes with its own sensor. It has nothing to do with your stock ones.

        As far as nitrous goes I wouldn't spray a 250 shot without race fuel so you'll need a seperate tank for the race fuel unless you wanna run race fuel through you stock tank and lines. I don't know but I think you would need a different tune to run your motor on 110.
        ive ran my motor of torco racing fuel it seemed to run good on it
        my 02 sensor i have 1 of them for each header. if i took one out to replace it with a guage wouldnt my car try to run shity or something or does that o2 sensor hook up to my computer and guage at same time
        2000 WS.6 Build <--- click to see
        1994 cummins turbo diesel 1million+ miles!! (rip dad)*my fathers old truck hell of a mechanic!

        Comment


        • #5
          You don't have bungs for downstream o2s on your car? Normally you have bungs before the cats and after the cats. I have offroad (catless) headers and y-pipe but I still have all 4 bungs. If you have the 4 bungs and two of them just have plugs screwed into them, you can unscrew the plug and put your wideband in there. If you only have two bungs for o2s and they're both in use you'll need to take it to an exhaust shop and have them weld a new o2 bung in so you can use it with your wideband.
          - Brian Meissen
          Owner, MiFBody.com
          Administrator, LTxTech.com


          1994 Camaro LT1 Transplant - 357ci LT1, cammed, stalled, and driven.
          2022 Camaro LT1 - "Cherry Bomb 2"
          Michigan FBody Meet & Greet Car Show 2022
          June 4th, 2022 - 9am to 3pm!!!
          The HUB Stadium, Auburn Hills, MI

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          • #6
            his headers have EGR hooked up so I would assume he is using the downstream O2s. I think you should decide what kind of goals you have for the car and go from there right now you could do a lot fo cheap mods to gain some power.
            Doing less with more


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            • #7
              Yeah my bad when I saw him say he had 1 per header, I was thinking he meant he only had 1 on each bank - forgot the downstream are really in the Y.
              - Brian Meissen
              Owner, MiFBody.com
              Administrator, LTxTech.com


              1994 Camaro LT1 Transplant - 357ci LT1, cammed, stalled, and driven.
              2022 Camaro LT1 - "Cherry Bomb 2"
              Michigan FBody Meet & Greet Car Show 2022
              June 4th, 2022 - 9am to 3pm!!!
              The HUB Stadium, Auburn Hills, MI

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by meissen View Post
                Yeah my bad when I saw him say he had 1 per header, I was thinking he meant he only had 1 on each bank - forgot the downstream are really in the Y.
                i think i do have 4 of them 2 of them are tied up not hooked up to anything. but i didnt know if i need them plugged in my exhaust or if i can disconnect one and put my wideband in figure computer probably will go nutts if i unplugged just one
                GEDC2710.JPG
                Last edited by TRY MEH; February 28th, 2012, 06:51 PM.
                2000 WS.6 Build <--- click to see
                1994 cummins turbo diesel 1million+ miles!! (rip dad)*my fathers old truck hell of a mechanic!

                Comment


                • #9
                  Wait....what

                  Are the rear ones plugged in or not. You said they are not hooked to anything, then you said your computer might go nuts if you unhook one of them...

                  1998 Camaro Z28 - Bright Red, 6.0 TR224, 4l60e, 3.42 Eaton TrueTrac
                  1989 Camaro IROC-Z Convertible - 355 big tube TPI, WC T5, 3.42 Zexel Torsen, CTS-V/C4 brakes
                  1955 Bel Air 2 Door Post - 357 TPI, Muncie M20, 4 wheel disc

                  2006 Saab 9-7x 5.3i Daily Driver

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                  • #10
                    If they're just hanging there then HOPEFULLY your car has been tuned to not use 'em otherwise your car would drive like utter shit And if that's the case, you should have open bungs where those were supposed to go
                    - Brian Meissen
                    Owner, MiFBody.com
                    Administrator, LTxTech.com


                    1994 Camaro LT1 Transplant - 357ci LT1, cammed, stalled, and driven.
                    2022 Camaro LT1 - "Cherry Bomb 2"
                    Michigan FBody Meet & Greet Car Show 2022
                    June 4th, 2022 - 9am to 3pm!!!
                    The HUB Stadium, Auburn Hills, MI

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by meissen View Post
                      If they're just hanging there then HOPEFULLY your car has been tuned to not use 'em otherwise your car would drive like utter shit And if that's the case, you should have open bungs where those were supposed to go
                      2 are in use other 2 are hanging. i dont think car was ever tuned.
                      hard to see in pic but u can see the 2 plugged in.. thats it there is 2 more tied up i think it was for the catts that i no longer have lol..
                      ws6 034.jpg
                      this pic may be a good look to see if anyone thinks those slp frame connectors would be a good fit? if anyone has gotten those..
                      Last edited by TRY MEH; February 28th, 2012, 07:34 PM.
                      2000 WS.6 Build <--- click to see
                      1994 cummins turbo diesel 1million+ miles!! (rip dad)*my fathers old truck hell of a mechanic!

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        but im guessing nitro kitt is a good buy?
                        2000 WS.6 Build <--- click to see
                        1994 cummins turbo diesel 1million+ miles!! (rip dad)*my fathers old truck hell of a mechanic!

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          to big bangs for your buck is a ls motor is a cam and nitrous. ls motor respond huge off cam swaps. heads angles help that. that umi three point sub frame i install for allan was a very nice setup. very rigid. i would't worry so much obout weld in or bolt in as they can both be easily removed. as far as nitrous if you have never used it i would by a 250 kit and start small, then gradually go up.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by sniperperformance View Post
                            to big bangs for your buck is a ls motor is a cam and nitrous. ls motor respond huge off cam swaps. heads angles help that. that umi three point sub frame i install for allan was a very nice setup. very rigid. i would't worry so much obout weld in or bolt in as they can both be easily removed. as far as nitrous if you have never used it i would by a 250 kit and start small, then gradually go up.
                            from what i read the slp one is similar to umi but reason i dont want to weld is if i wanted to take off one day "orginal"
                            the nitro kitt im looking at is A ( 35 - 300 shot ) i figure id start it from 75 and go up to 150 after awhile i dont plan on doing alot of 200 shots maybe 250 once or twice at the track
                            2000 WS.6 Build <--- click to see
                            1994 cummins turbo diesel 1million+ miles!! (rip dad)*my fathers old truck hell of a mechanic!

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              As far as your o2s go, if the car wasn't tuned to delete the rear o2s then the car would freak out as the cats that are missing aren't cleaning the exhaust and would freak the computer out. So who ever removed the cats probably had it tuned to delete those o2s and just kept them in to plug the bungs so there wasn't an exhaust leak. I run a FAST dual wideband o2. Once for each of my headers, so I can look as both banks of the engine.

                              Bolt on subframe connectors can we welded on if you want and bolted, if you want to remove weld on ones it just takes some grinding.

                              As for the nitrous I am not familiar with how much juice a ls internals can handle but if I recall they can hold like 500hp on the rods. With a 250 shot I'm pretty sure you will grenade the 7.5" 10 bolt. Also a T56 from a Fbody is only rated to like 450ft lbs at the the flywheel.

                              A car will run on higher octane fuel then it is tuned for. Octane is just the resistance to detonation. If your car is tuned to run on 91-93 octane its pointless and a waste of money to run anything higher. The PCM already has the max timing set for 91-93 and its not going to go, oh check it out 110 octane fuel I'll just bump up timing by 5 degrees. Doesn't work like that. Now running lower octane will mean you will see knock/detonation because obviously lower octane means you have to cut timing back.
                              Last edited by Fox Slaughter; February 28th, 2012, 08:29 PM.
                              Originally posted by Yoshi94
                              Mines about an inch bigger than Kyles. I need to get one of those
                              Originally posted by ryanwarby01
                              Put it this way, if you have a money tree a LT1 is a wood chipper!
                              sigpic

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