B-Body problem

[1Bad86Iroc]

I figured i could post this here since the car HAD an LT1. Well, heres whats happening, we bought a 95 Caprice Wagon, no motor or trans, but we dropped a gen 1 383 in it. We also are deleting the entire PCM stuff. Now heres my problem. The car wont turn over, at all. I put the battery from my 96 Impala in it since i know its good, and the same thing. Will the theft detterent module still be actve even though there is no computer?

[kammi10]

you sir have wiring issues somewhere

[s8bayer]

OK, hesitant to suggest this for fear of chopping your arm off or something, but you could jump the solenoid. The best way to do it is actually using the designed tool. Basically a set of jumper cables with a momentary switch in the loop. A friend of mine had one of these that we used when building my two engines. You can even do it with a screw driver, but thats where the chop your arm off thing comes in (I did the later when I was young and dumb... better said when I had less to loose then I do now) Reaching in there is kinda dangerous, especially with headers.
I would probably think the ignition is your culprit. You should have been fine getting all the older parts in an running fine, however the ignition is still the newer generation and is monitored by computers. You might want to go over to one of those push button start things and wire it direct. Would be a cool look and avoid the problem area. You could still use your key for accessory power to provide security if you wanted to.

[s8bayer]

I just reread that and it wasn't completely clear. My point w as that if you have battery +/- correctly and accessory power on, and you cross the two posts on the solenoid it will bump the engine over. You could at least confirm that you have those three points of power and it would point to the ignition, and probably theft protection. Back to my point above. I would use a different ignition system as well and make the entire system run like the Gen1 chevy. Good luck. Having a good volt meter (a reading up how to use it) is a great thing! Good luck.

[Fbomb]

you could jump the solenoid.

Do not do this unless you're just doing it to test something. Use a remote solenoid and push-button if you can't get the keyed ignition to work. My guess is that it's the BCM not allowing voltage to the starter solenoid. In that case what you have to do is just ground the starter relay.

[s8bayer]

Do not do this unless you're just doing it to test something. Use a remote solenoid and push-button if you can't get the keyed ignition to work. My guess is that it's the BCM not allowing voltage to the starter solenoid. In that case what you have to do is just ground the starter relay.

Well said, Like I said, I hated to even put it down. That is just the only way I know to test it. Other words of advise, be very, very careful if you ever engage the engine outside of the car. It is unlikely, but a trans can be in gear sending the car moving. Obviously, the only place you want to be is where you can do something about it... the driver seat. Sorry, I regret posting it.

[98blackbeauty]

I would go to www.shbox.com there are wire charts there and look up the years for your motor. like everyone said you have a wire issue oand I would start with using the Volt Ohm Meter (VOM).
put minus on a good ground and probe for +. When your checking for a ground like on start relay coil do the oposite. put the + lead on +12v and probe with the - lead. Short course on using VOM.

[TrickyTransAm]

Check your fuses while your at it.

Even if it was a VATS issue, it should still crank, just not fire or stay running for long.
A 95 should be OBDI, so there's not much special stuff on it.

Did you wire brush the terminals to the starter before re-assembling it? (Gotta have a good clean conductive surface)

Harbor Freight has cheap remote start buttons that will save your hands. Just clip one gator clip on the solenoid (Small post), and one on the battery feed on the starter - then get your body from under the car and hit the button.
It's got about a 4' cord, so that's plenty of room to touch the starter from there.
That way you know your starter itself is good.
Then, jump it from the starter relay with a heavy paper clip so you know your wiring is good from the relay to the starter.

Just to double check, here's a few wire colors and there locations

At the starter:
Yellow Wire - Small starter soleniod ring from starter relay.
Black Power wire - to starter main power lug

At the theft deterrant relay relay:
Purple - Ignition start/ Theft deterrant relay power
Yellow/Black - theft deterrant control signal
Red - solenoid kick + power in
Yellow - solenoid kick +power out

can you hear the relay click? If not, pull the relay, and cross over the red/yellow while turning the key to start - should kick the starter and rule out a bad relay, or signal from the relay to the column.