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How do I remove the hub/crank balancer

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  • How do I remove the hub/crank balancer

    I cannot seem to get the hub/crank balancer off.
    It is the Y shaped part with three threaded holes in it.
    Any tips or pictures?
    sigpic

    1996 Base Model
    +2 cylinder mod

  • #2
    Smack it a bit with a rubber mallet then use a 3-jaw puller?

    Used to own a Firebird.

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    • #3
      I used a 3 jaw puller and put the car in gear so it would stop it from spinning to get the center bolt out.

      Then I forgot I had it in gear and was on jack stands and let out the clutch and boom. Came down on the bucket of anti freeze. Everywhere.
      Originally posted by Yoshi94
      Mines about an inch bigger than Kyles. I need to get one of those
      Originally posted by ryanwarby01
      Put it this way, if you have a money tree a LT1 is a wood chipper!
      sigpic

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      • #4
        Go to Oreillies or auto zone they rent a hub puller balancer puller set. zero dollars
        sigpic
        1998 Trans Am Convertible A4 - WS6 hood, WS6 air lid, WS6 rims, drilled/slotted rotors.

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        • #5
          I have a few jar style pullers.
          I just was not sure if it was that easy.
          I got the center bolt out easy with an impact, the engine it not in the car so all of this should be easy.
          sigpic

          1996 Base Model
          +2 cylinder mod

          Comment


          • #6
            Should be a cakewalk then. Just make sure you have enough threads of the crank bolt engaged so you don't chew them up. I broke my 3-jaw a few times pulling mine...cheap Harbor Freight stuff.

            Used to own a Firebird.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Fbomb View Post
              Smack it a bit with a rubber mallet then use a 3-jaw puller?
              rubber mallet?? try a sledge hammer. just dont hit it in a way that pushes the crank inwards. (Ok, a regular hammer should do the job, but believe me youll need to do some persuading...)
              -Joel
              1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
              1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


              WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop

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              • #8
                Is this the 3.8?

                Originally posted by Plum Nuts View Post
                Go to Oreillies or auto zone they rent a hub puller balancer puller set. zero dollars
                Absolutely!
                No Hammering on the crank!

                3 jaw pullers can screw up the balancer. If you use them, go inside the webs, not on the outer rim of the balancer.
                If this is the option you use, very light heat applied with a torch to the crank snout and balancer interface can help things along. Don't get it super hot - you don't want to melt the front cover seal out.
                Do you want me to bring the few pullers I have?

                Buy a new balancer bolt as well. It's a torque to yield fastner, and you have to give it 150Nm of torque plus 114 degrees of twist.
                Chances are, if you use the old bolt, it will be stretched already and you'll snap it off in the crank.

                Last edited by TrickyTransAm; January 16th, 2011, 06:10 PM.

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                • #9
                  It didn't say anything in the manual about it being a torque till yield bolt?

                  Least for the LT1? It just said to the blah blah ft lbs.
                  Originally posted by Yoshi94
                  Mines about an inch bigger than Kyles. I need to get one of those
                  Originally posted by ryanwarby01
                  Put it this way, if you have a money tree a LT1 is a wood chipper!
                  sigpic

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    The LT1 balancer bolt is NOT a TTY bolt

                    OP- just use a puller like mention, if it is being stobborn heat up the crank snout slightly

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                    • #11
                      I just beat mine out with a sledge.
                      - Brian Meissen
                      Owner, MiFBody.com
                      Administrator, LTxTech.com


                      1994 Camaro LT1 Transplant - 357ci LT1, cammed, stalled, and driven.
                      2022 Camaro LT1 - "Cherry Bomb 2"
                      Michigan FBody Meet & Greet Car Show 2022
                      June 4th, 2022 - 9am to 3pm!!!
                      The HUB Stadium, Auburn Hills, MI

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                      • #12
                        Do not to use hammer, go to reaillys get harm puller zero $. and be sure to use it to put it on. if you beat it on you can screw up crush bearing on crank.
                        Last edited by 98blackbeauty; February 14th, 2011, 03:03 PM.
                        sigpic
                        1998 Trans Am Convertible A4 - WS6 hood, WS6 air lid, WS6 rims, drilled/slotted rotors.

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                        • #13
                          if all else fails sawzall the crank snout clean off!

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