Special Tools??

[tab1217]

Ok, Ive decided to not scrap the car. Im going to fix the motor. The place I took it to for a Opti and Water pump screwed up 3 oil seals because he didnt have the right tools to install it. He finally bought the tools and got the seal installed. I have a 1994 Z28 LT-1, my question is A. What was he talking about? and B. What other "special" tools do I need to buy/rent/borrow to rebuild a engine with a rod knock? and C. Where do I find them if I need to buy them? Only available from GM? if so, part numbers? Or is there a aftermarket company I can get the stuff cheaper from???

[1BADAIR]

if it has a rod knock it has to get machined. crank and probably rod cause you said it was squeking. that means it spun a bearing

[tab1217]

if it has a rod knock it has to get machined. crank and probably rod cause you said it was squeking. that means it spun a bearing

Oh, Im sure it will. Everything is always worst case scenario in my life lol. That is the reason I'm asking about Special Tools for the LT-1 because everything is going to have to come off and get put back together and I want to have the tools necessary to do the job. I dont want to get to the point where I need one and have to order it and wait 3 days for shipping. Do you know the seal installation tool the mechanic was talking about? I guess it goes over the spline shaft coming out of the timing cover.

[meissen]

What you're going to want to do is have a machine shop do the machine work and reassemble the short block. You'll get it back as just an engine with the crank, rods, and pistons installed. A lot of people use a variety of "backyard mechanic" techniques to get the seals installed. I know my dad and I used a socket to pound the timing cover seal in. Most specialty tools, though, can be found at your local Autozone or O'Reilly. What they'll have you do is buy the tools for the full price, you use it, and then return it when you're done and you get the full refund - that's how their "tool rental program" works. Hope that helps.

[prorac1]

Tool rental rocks. I also use sockets of varying sizes to install seals. Sounds like id avoid that mechanic next time, lol. Eric L

[98blackbeauty]

The tools you need to rebuild engine are: I'm listing everything since I don't know what you have.
1. set of metric and SAE sockets
2. set of metric and SAE Wrenches
3. Cherry picker
4. 4 wheel dolly.
5. engine stand.
6. car jack.
7. Jack stands, or 2x4 columns
8. tubing wrench set.
This will get engine out and taken apart to take to engine rebuilder. I would strongly suggest you have that done and have them re assemble engine. they will mike out cyl walls, set rings, and mike the rods and main bearings, bore the cyl out if nec. and turn the crank and fit under size bearings etc. you'll get back a block that has pistons, and crank installed and ready to reassemble. probably good idea to take heads in too, have them check make sure they are not cracked and or warped since you ran it hot. (who knows what previous owner did to it) I know when State Motors did Brians engine he gave us a warrenty on work when he does assembly. I know price is important but no one can give you price till they see and mike it out to tell what has to be done. Brians engine spun 2 main and 2 rod bearings. Richard was able to turn the crank and fit new bearings with out replacing crank, one cyl was scratched and we had it bored out. so he inline bored the mains, welded and turned the crank, and bored the block. then installed new main and rod bearings, new pistons, piston rings. it cost us 1120.00.
While its apart you should install new oil pump. get new head bolts, and gaskets.
Sorry for the novel but just trying to give you as much info as possible to start you down the correct path.

[prorac1]

I will add this to Larrys post. If your crank is hurt now a days, its usually just as cheap to put an aftermarket stroker or stock stroke crank in versus welding and grinding a factory crank. You can get a new aftermarket crank for around $180 from ohio crank or scat. And you have to replace the pistons anyways. Just throwing it out there. Bigger is always beter, lol. Eric L

[tab1217]

I will add this to Larrys post. If your crank is hurt now a days, its usually just as cheap to put an aftermarket stroker or stock stroke crank in versus welding and grinding a factory crank. You can get a new aftermarket crank for around $180 from ohio crank or scat. And you have to replace the pistons anyways. Just throwing it out there. Bigger is always beter, lol. Eric L

Im glad you mentioned that. What cam would you recommend? I dont want to upgrade the drivetrain and rear end right now but is there one that is a little more than stock without going over the top? And is a cam without headers worth it? and what do you mean bigger is always better with regards to pistons? Im only asking because if I have to rebuild it anyways I was looking for suggestions as to what I should do/buy? Thanks to everyone on here who has helped me.

[meissen]

You can get the LT4 hot cam kit which would be everything you need to do the cam swap (I think) for like $600.

[prorac1]

Bigger is always better as far as cubic inches. Always. I have also heard of good things from the comp cams cc305. Nice mild cam with a little hint of chop at idle. And you can buy them used ALL over the net. Another good place to look is the camaroz28 board. And one of my favorites is ltxtech.com. Eric L

[meissen]

Bigger is always better as far as cubic inches. Always. I have also heard of good things from the comp cams cc305. Nice mild cam with a little hint of chop at idle. And you can buy them used ALL over the net. Another good place to look is the camaroz28 board. And one of my favorites is ltxtech.com. Eric L

<3 LTXtech.

[JoeliusZ28]

Bigger is always better as far as cubic inches. Always.

until you hit water. In any case I wont be going with that theory on my next build