i think ive bored most of you and dont think ill get much feedback from the my formula project thread. so my bearings should be at home today when i get there. as the title states, is there any suggestions? thanks
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any tips and/or tricks to installing rod and main bearings?
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aka "Plum Nuts"
- June 4th, 2008
- 5699
- Larry Meissen
- 1998 Trans Am convertible, 2012 Camaro V6 auto IBM
- Macomb, Michigan
- Realtor
- Send PM
Don't take any short cuts putting them in.sigpic
1998 Trans Am Convertible A4 - WS6 hood, WS6 air lid, WS6 rims, drilled/slotted rotors.
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Don't knick the journals! Replacing bearings is a fairly easy job as long as you pay attention to details. Check the clearences of each bearing...don't use plastigage because it sucks. Write all your numbers down, then go back and do it over again and compare your measurements. Do it right with a ID and OD micrometer. Don't forget the oil on the final assembly.sigpicTurbo Charged LS1/T56
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yeah I thought you were doing rings as well? You pretty much have to to be honest the main bearings go under the crank as well and therefor everything has to come out.Doing less with more

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sorry I can't help more Mike I wish I had all the tools to do a shortblock but I had mine assembled by the machine shop as well.
Doing less with more

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i was going to do rings as well but everyone keeps telling me im going to open a can of worms. im way over what i planned on spending on this build and if soething else cme up with the rings then id be screwed. already if my car makes it out this year, it will be a miraclesigpic
11.84 @ 117 w 1.66 60' (previous na best)
- - 5.3/4L80e/T7875 - -
- Huron Speed Turbo Kit -
1998 Formula
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well as I stated I didn't build my shortblock so maybe there is something I am missing but if the rod bearings go on both the rod and the rod caps then the only way to do that would be to remove the rod/piston from the cylinder. I know for sure there are bearings under the crank that should be replaced and that would require the crank to be out which in turn you need to removes the pistons and rods ect.
Hopefully I'm wrong and its easier than that.Doing less with more

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You may want to have that crank checked before you even open your new bearings.. Rob and I both felt scratches on the main journals(ok maybe not, but seemed like we could with our fingernails).. I'd have it checked.. New bearings do no good if the crank needs turned/polished.. And if it needs to be turned(crank), the bearings you have now will not work..sigpic
U.S. Army 1983-2005
11.20@122.37 1.51 60'
Originally posted by WMCCjames
"Plans Subject to change upon Sobering up"
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