shift solenoid b stuck?

[MORNINGSTAR2101]

as some of you already know, my car threw a code on the way to woodward last friday and then wouldnt shift into gear. pulled into a random parking lot and let her cool down and started back up and got to our meeting spot at AE just fine. when i turned the car back on to leave the ses light was still on but made it home just fine with super smooth shifting. pulled the code and it came back P0757 which is shift solenoid b circuit stuck on.... ...not sure if this is a fluke thing or what, so i looked it up and got two different things off of ls1tech.... ..

"I have the same problem in my '01 SS. Started happening right after I installed my 3200 Vig. I have since purchased new solenoids but have yet to install them. Somebody told me that the solenoids get hot and basically just stop working untill you shut the car off and let them cool down a minute or two. I have found that driving around town in "drive" keeps this from reoccurring and only using "overdrive" on the highway. Hopefully when I put the new solenoids in it will help. A friend told me that he put new solenoids in 2 years ago and has never had a problem since." from 2004

and this "Thanks for the quick replies. It does sometimes clear on its own after turning the car off, and sometimes it hangs around for a couple of days. Either case it's usually that only code that comes up and is infrequent and I dont' usually notice any shifting differences, though once or twice it has prevented it from going in to OD." from 2008

im kinda lost when it comes to the world of transmissions, so i have a couple of questions.
*is this a huge issue or just a hiccup? ... ..all i found using google was those two things on ls1tech
*i had a shift kit installed with the trans rebuild, would that have something to do with it?
*i was told that i would need a trans cooler if i were to take the car to the track, is my trans pissed at me that i dont have one yet, should i invest in one asap?
*i recently had an issue with the tstat and still had the stocker in while the care is tuned to 160, could that contribute to the issue?

thanks in advance for any contributions!

[c0ncEpT]

Put a trans cooler on the car. One should have been installed at the same time as the converter... Converters generate a shit load of heat.

[meissen]

Exactly what I was going to say. Ridings told me to get a cooler on mine and mine never sees 200*.

[MORNINGSTAR2101]

thanks guys! neither of the threads that i found mentioned anything about a cooler, so maybe next time someone searches for this issue, theyll be led here and actually find an answer

[1BADAIR]

i would add a cooler in any OD trans car with a 2800 or more.
nonOD trans should have an added one with any nonstock convertor

[MORNINGSTAR2101]

haha, alright, i need a trans cooler. i cant get one at the moment, waiting to see what my monthly numbers are gonna look like right now, but this confirms that i need to get one asap. any recommendations?

[1BADAIR]

B&M 24k

[meissen]

thanks guys! neither of the threads that i found mentioned anything about a cooler, so maybe next time someone searches for this issue, theyll be led here and actually find an answer

the guy was kinda hinting at it saying the solenoid is getting hot - the trans cooler will solve that.

[sman]

Get a hayden style cooler, there the best there is, im running there biggest one on my car with my Ridings trans and 3600 conveter, per his recomendation.

Most are a tube with fins attached to them, and they work, but these are like a modern radiator, much greater cooling capacity.

Heres what im running.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HDA-678/

[MORNINGSTAR2101]

hrm, l3 says stacked plate, not tube and fin. might be a bit of an ignorant question, but whats the difference?

[sman]

Stacked plate is like the one I showed you, very radiator-esque, tube and fin is well, a squiggly tube with fins soldered to it(the just dont do as good of a job).

Stacked plate(hayden style)


Tube and fin style

[1BADAIR]

the one he posted will work well liz. cheaper too

[Formula Z]

when i dyno allison transmissions and i get a code like that, usually the valve body is dirty and needs to be cleaned. i hope its just getting to hot liz, but if the cooler dont fix it, the valve body may need a good cleaning inside and out along with fluid and filter change.

[01CAMAROSS]

I'm sorry to hear that Liz. I had the same problem last November. I parked the car for the winter knowing that I would have to fix it in spring. When I got it out in early March, the light went off, code was gone after I disconnected the battery. I haven't had a problem since. I'm not saying that the problem magically went away but I haven't had an issue since. Hopefully it's an easy fix for you.

[prorac1]

IIRC I used a plate style hayden and mounted it off the front chin spoiler mounting bolts, bent the mounting tab on the cooler on a 45 degree angle so that the cooler tucked up in there and was in the direct air that comes into the radiator. It was a fairly small cooler from what I remember, but it worked great. I brutalized both transmissions that it was hooked to in the car (4L60E and Th350), both with higher stall converters, and never had a problem. Eric L Another thing I did with my 4L60E and lockup converter was I adjusted the computer to keep the converter locked up longer. Basically, it would take more throttle to make the converter unlock. From my experience, the factory settings for lockup and un lock are pretty light. Eric L