Looking for Opinions

[nascarnate326]

I disagree I would say 90% of f bodies out there are modded to some degree and even stock power can wreak havoc on the 10 bolt with traction.

Not everyone runs drag radials. How many people on here have 10 bolt and how many have 9in? Doesnt mean those that have 10 bolts will last forever but its a short term solution. By short term I mean 130k or more.

[9T8W66]

with the correct yoke ,a shaft isnt needed. you will have to change rear u-joints though

I knew about the U joint but didn't think about a slightly longer yoke, thanks for the info.

[98blackbeauty]

As you know I'm more conservative Craig, The current rear lasted 130,000 miles and held up under abuse. I would rebuild the current rear and get the girdle, That would leave you enough for the clutch at the same time. I mean it held up for 11 years.
I really like the rims you have, I would get new rubber and do the headers, and y pipe. All of this would still leave you with money to take your little girl to McDonalds. LOL
Besides that I believe most guys break their rear because they panic when traction lets loose and let off the gas instead of feathering out of it. Your experienced at driving/racing thats why current rear lasted this long. IMHO.

[JoeliusZ28]

Besides that I believe most guys break their rear because they panic when traction lets loose and let off the gas instead of feathering out of it.

that will definitely do it with drag radials but shouldnt with street tires unless you are spinning the tires a lot faster than you are moving. A hard 1-2 shift in an M6 will do one in also.

[9T8W66]

that will definitely do it with drag radials but shouldnt with street tires unless you are spinning the tires a lot faster than you are moving. A hard 1-2 shift in an M6 will do one in also.

Yeah there was a guy talking on LS1.com about the rear going out on the 2-3 shift at the track. It locked up broke the driveshaft and the tailshaft of the trans at the sametime.

[JoeliusZ28]

I disagree I would say 90% of f bodies out there are modded to some degree and even stock power can wreak havoc on the 10 bolt with traction.

um werent you pulling the front tires off the ground with yours?

[c0ncEpT]

Yeah there was a guy talking on LS1.com about the rear going out on the 2-3 shift at the track. It locked up broke the driveshaft and the tailshaft of the trans at the sametime.

Most break on the 2-3 shift. As thats where they will actually dead hook most of the time on a well prepped surface.

[Formula Z]

rebuild the 10 bolt, get the girdle and be done with it. save yourself the cash and put it elsewhere

[prorac1]

This is probably already known, but im just going to reinforce it since were talking about ALL f bodies on this site. You can go REAL fast with an auto and a 10 bolt. While I do believe that the gussets will help, and I will probably do some research and try them, its only a bandaid. With a T56, its not a matter of if, its a matter of when. So IMHO, you have two choices with a 6 speed. Run a 10 bolt, and dont dead hook with constant clutch dumps, or go with a 9" or dana 60. And unfortunately there is no solution for under $2,000, lol. What ya going to do. Eric L

[DETROITMUSCLE]

um werent you pulling the front tires off the ground with yours?

yes but as mentioned its behind a 4l60e which is much more forgiving, there have been plenty of guys on tech that have broken them with bolt-on or closer to stock cars and STREET TIRES not drag radials. In turn there are guys going 10s with a good clutch in a 6 speed. If you have the money you'd be a fool not to upgrade and be done, heck if I could start all over with my car a 9" and suspension would be my first mods.

[JoeliusZ28]

yes but as mentioned its behind a 4l60e which is much more forgiving, there have been plenty of guys on tech that have broken them with bolt-on or closer to stock cars and STREET TIRES not drag radials. In turn there are guys going 10s with a good clutch in a 6 speed. If you have the money you'd be a fool not to upgrade and be done, heck if I could start all over with my car a 9" and suspension would be my first mods.

id agree if he was planning on doing more mods. but he has like 150,000 miles on that engine with no plans to add more power The 9" takes more power to turn, and thats where i would hesitate running it on a relatively stock build.

Ive beat the snot out of my 10 bolt. powershifting wouldnt be much worse than some of the speed shifting ive done with it. Im convinced the reason they break behind 6 speeds so often is because of idiot drivers, and craig is no amateur. Ive seen people doing stuff like pulling holeshots on patchy asphalt and hard rolling clutch dumps to get an edge in roll racing... and also the idiot move larry mentioned. Ive also seen premature downshifts causing negative wheel hop, and even reverse clutch dumps. Yes, they break all the time on LS1 tech but there are also a lot of idiots on LS1 tech that are not willing to admit to a stupid move or arent even aware of the damage potential of their driving style. And you also never know what the car went through before you bought it.

[JoeliusZ28]

on the contrary i just noticed he plans on doing the PHB alternative... which i believe rules out using gussets but I am not positive.

[kammi10]

this thread makes me real happy when i realize i spent 2200 bucks on my 9inch rear and you guys are looking at 2800-3500 bucks for one... realistically you wont need the wavetrac and you would be just fine with a tru-trac for what you do with it. i got my housing, brakes and axles from moser for 1200 bucks. had a local guy to a center section for 800 bucks and 125 for a drive shaft plus a few odds and ends to add up to just under 2200 bucks.

my vote is build up a 10 bolt.. save yourself some money since you dont put sticky tires on it and drag race it all the time. get a girdle and good axles and some new gears and a posi have a grand maybe.. MAYBE into it and you'll be just fine.

[DETROITMUSCLE]

he said hes camming it down the road too guys.

[JoeliusZ28]

i missed that my bad.

but i still stick to my guns on the 10 bolt. Jons ten bolt has survived headers, cam, nitrous and his brutal driving. its weathered 2nd gear holeshots on brushed cement