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  • #16
    Originally posted by ThreeHonks View Post
    fixed

    only cuz urs doesnt have a scatter sheild. dont be escured
    wishing i could drive like joe and the atm squad

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    • #17
      I have a 306 I'll sell ya if you decide to go with that cam.
      Never used, brand new.



      VicePresident of West Michigan Firebird Club
      A.K.A The Maverick
      http://www.cardomain.com/ride/660128/1
      93 TA Currently Under Construction AGAIN
      2007 2500 Chevy Silverado Crew Cab w/ 6.0L & 3.73's

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      • #18
        306 cam doesnt bother the bottom end as much

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        • #19
          Originally posted by meissen View Post
          What you'll need to do is find a cam with a better RPM range then. While it's not universally the case (or maybe it is?) what I've always understood is that the bigger the cam is the more bottom end you're going to be losing because it's going to be performing in higher RPMs. I love my CC503 and it feels like it has great grunt all around. The CC503 or a comparable custom grind cam from Comp Cams, Lloyd Elliot, or Advanced Induction (in no particular order) seem to be the real popular ways to go.

          In my particular case, my HP numbers might not be 100% accurate because I had a faulty fuel pump that was dropping to 20psi and giving me a real lean WOT, but I was like 325 hp, 322tq. 30# injectors, upgraded springs, 1.6 roller rockers, heads have the bowls ported, hardened push rods, LS7 lifters, custom stall from Mike Ridings, 4L60e rebuilt by Ridings as well. While the videos won't tell you much of anything, I've got a ton of videos on youtube: http://www.youtube.com/mifbody
          Well i am eventualy going to build the bottom end but for now i just want to a more bolt on valvetrain aprotch to the motor...but i also plan on getting a tune, headers, shift kit, 3000 stall, a trans cooler?, 3.73 rear gears, some drag radials,...think there is more but cant remember.

          Originally posted by JoeliusZ28 View Post
          if you want bottom end power you dont want to be looking at a cam with 240+ duration.

          if you really want to learn about cam specs, read the sticky i posted in the intake/exhaust section.
          Thanks ill try and read up on it.

          Originally posted by Plantfoam View Post
          Yes, bigger is not always better when it comes to engine components. If you need to use a 3000 stall, then you probably don't have a street friendly car anymore. You will almost never be in lockup, unless you are going at freeway speeds with high ratio gears...but that isn't really desirable either. That's why I took a look at what converter I would have to use when I was shopping for a cam....that gives a good idea of how the car might behave, depending on your application.
          What is a lockup? sorry im not as learned as i wish i was! lol

          Originally posted by DETROITMUSCLE View Post
          a 3000 converter is no where near undriveable, who the hell is tuning your guys cars? I daily drive a big cam and 4000 stall converter and my car drives very very well. With a tighter 3500 converter you'd never even notice any difference from stock.
          so in other words bigger cam + bigger stall = better street ability?

          Originally posted by meissen View Post
          My 3400 converter is perfectly fine around town.
          See and i just dont know what stall i want to go with yet either basically i am trying to find a starting point and build around it...?

          Originally posted by MunsterZ28 View Post
          6speed ftw

          cc503 is a good cam id say.
          I am going to do a 6-speed swap some day but for now ill manage with the 4l60e.

          Originally posted by Phantom383 View Post
          I have a 306 I'll sell ya if you decide to go with that cam.
          Never used, brand new.
          Alright i will let you know if i decide to go with that cam...may i ask why you never used it tho?
          1999 z28 Bright Blue Metallic 1 of 10
          1999 z28 Hugger Orange RS 1 of >309 (Sold)
          1997 z28 White 6 speed Heads and Cam. (Sold)
          1994 z28 PPM auto Cam only (Sold)
          1984 sport coupe red 4 cyl (Sold)

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          • #20
            a bigger stall is never better drivability, but something like a 3000 converter you'll hardly notice any difference over stock just driving around town, once you go WOT you will know its there but my point was don't be afraid to drive around a little bigger converter.
            Doing less with more


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            • #21
              Originally posted by DETROITMUSCLE View Post
              a bigger stall is never better drivability, but something like a 3000 converter you'll hardly notice any difference over stock just driving around town, once you go WOT you will know its there but my point was don't be afraid to drive around a little bigger converter.
              Yea i planned on running a 3000 stall im just trying to find a cam to match it.
              1999 z28 Bright Blue Metallic 1 of 10
              1999 z28 Hugger Orange RS 1 of >309 (Sold)
              1997 z28 White 6 speed Heads and Cam. (Sold)
              1994 z28 PPM auto Cam only (Sold)
              1984 sport coupe red 4 cyl (Sold)

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              • #22
                Originally posted by Purple94Z28 View Post
                Yea i planned on running a 3000 stall im just trying to find a cam to match it.
                Your going to want something a bit smaller than a 847. Something with a bit less overlap if your looking for low end power. DCR is also very important when looking for bottom end power.

                The right Valve events are key for choosing a cam for your set up and making big power.


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                • #23
                  gm847 is not the best choice for you. Its is one of the better off-the-shelf cams for the LT1 but there are a lot better choices out there.

                  With the new aggressive lobes, get something custom ground in the 22x/23x range.

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    I totally agree with the concensus of the people posting in this thread.

                    I have had a few different cams in my 94 Formula

                    236/242 .568/.568 110lsa .... ported LT1 heads/cam/T56...good top end power but gutless down low.....never dyno'd

                    222/228 .544/.538 112lsa...396/ported LT1 heads/T56....torque monster/street sleeper. Car made 400lb/ft from 2400+rpm and 422rwhp

                    then ran this cam behind a 700r4 with a 3200 stall...perfect street manners and snuck up on alot of cars in my area. Idle'd smoother than a stock cid LT1 with the LT4 Hot cam...but trapped in the 130's on the bottle

                    246/254 .613/.590 112lsa 396/ported LT1 heads/700r4 3200 stall....lost low end grunt but screamed above 4000rpm....picked up .3 NA with the cam swap...but Idle and street manners suffered.
                    Idle clip of this cam
                    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=06B7mhgE8rg

                    For a shelf cam I would suggest one of the new Comp XFI grinds either the 07-466-8 for better street manners or the 07-467-8 for a little more power.

                    Both will require the usual spring/retainer/rocker arm upgrades.

                    The XFI cam lobes are very aggressive and were designed for fuel injected applications. These cams will make better power and have better manners than the older CC306/503 or the crane/GM 847.

                    If you want send me all the details on what you have done now and your very near future plans and I can help you pick a cam. I am also friends with Lloyd Elliot and if a custom grind would be better for you I can help their also

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Originally posted by c0ncEpT View Post
                      Your going to want something a bit smaller than a 847. Something with a bit less overlap if your looking for low end power. DCR is also very important when looking for bottom end power.

                      The right Valve events are key for choosing a cam for your set up and making big power.
                      DCR? Valve events?

                      Originally posted by N2OfedLT1 View Post
                      I totally agree with the concensus of the people posting in this thread.

                      I have had a few different cams in my 94 Formula

                      236/242 .568/.568 110lsa .... ported LT1 heads/cam/T56...good top end power but gutless down low.....never dyno'd

                      222/228 .544/.538 112lsa...396/ported LT1 heads/T56....torque monster/street sleeper. Car made 400lb/ft from 2400+rpm and 422rwhp

                      then ran this cam behind a 700r4 with a 3200 stall...perfect street manners and snuck up on alot of cars in my area. Idle'd smoother than a stock cid LT1 with the LT4 Hot cam...but trapped in the 130's on the bottle

                      246/254 .613/.590 112lsa 396/ported LT1 heads/700r4 3200 stall....lost low end grunt but screamed above 4000rpm....picked up .3 NA with the cam swap...but Idle and street manners suffered.
                      Idle clip of this cam
                      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=06B7mhgE8rg

                      For a shelf cam I would suggest one of the new Comp XFI grinds either the 07-466-8 for better street manners or the 07-467-8 for a little more power.

                      Both will require the usual spring/retainer/rocker arm upgrades.

                      The XFI cam lobes are very aggressive and were designed for fuel injected applications. These cams will make better power and have better manners than the older CC306/503 or the crane/GM 847.

                      If you want send me all the details on what you have done now and your very near future plans and I can help you pick a cam. I am also friends with Lloyd Elliot and if a custom grind would be better for you I can help their also
                      Well sadly as of right now the car is complety stock except for the hypertech i bought and catless 3inch cat back. I have just been planning a project for the winter and am trying to find exactly what im going to do...as of right now my plan is to get the heads ported, springs, rockers,etc... a cam, ls7 lifters, a stall (whatever is applicable, was thinking 3000) shift kit, 3.73 gears to replace the 2.73 and i know there is probably other things i need or should get...i kinda learning everything as i go. Oh and i also am looking to get LT Headers and a cai.
                      1999 z28 Bright Blue Metallic 1 of 10
                      1999 z28 Hugger Orange RS 1 of >309 (Sold)
                      1997 z28 White 6 speed Heads and Cam. (Sold)
                      1994 z28 PPM auto Cam only (Sold)
                      1984 sport coupe red 4 cyl (Sold)

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                      • #26
                        long tubes are a must if you want that engine to exhale properly everything its inhaling with ported heads and a bigger cam.
                        wishing i could drive like joe and the atm squad

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                        • #27
                          Originally posted by MunsterZ28 View Post
                          long tubes are a must if you want that engine to exhale properly everything its inhaling with ported heads and a bigger cam.
                          I know its a must thats why i forgot about it lol just like i didn't put down that i need sub frame connectors...because i know i need them its a must lol
                          1999 z28 Bright Blue Metallic 1 of 10
                          1999 z28 Hugger Orange RS 1 of >309 (Sold)
                          1997 z28 White 6 speed Heads and Cam. (Sold)
                          1994 z28 PPM auto Cam only (Sold)
                          1984 sport coupe red 4 cyl (Sold)

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                          • #28
                            was the hypertech a recent purchase? because if you can return it, it will be worthless once you do a cam and a stall. you will need a real tune.
                            -Joel
                            1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
                            1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


                            WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop

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                            • #29
                              It was used i got it in a trade im most likely going to sell it to one of my buddy's. And i didnt know until after i traded that it would be useless.
                              1999 z28 Bright Blue Metallic 1 of 10
                              1999 z28 Hugger Orange RS 1 of >309 (Sold)
                              1997 z28 White 6 speed Heads and Cam. (Sold)
                              1994 z28 PPM auto Cam only (Sold)
                              1984 sport coupe red 4 cyl (Sold)

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                the XFI 467 will work well for you....with the mods you have planned.

                                its on the aggressive side but not crazy

                                Also...upgrade the fuel pump...go with the racetronix kit now...you will thank me later.
                                It should be the first mod performed on a LT1 in my opinion.

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