Welcome to the Michigan FBody Association website.
The Michigan FBody Association is a centralized website for FBody enthusiasts to discuss what's going on in the Michigan area. MiFbody.com was created to allow for an easy one-stop place to find out what's going on in Michigan as far as FBody events, to find out what clubs are available in your immediate area, and for an easy place to post classifieds for items you want to sell! Our goal was to create a more close-knit community of FBody enthusiasts in the state of Michigan, and to bring Camaro and Firebird enthusiasts alike together for some amazing FBody events!
The most important thing to know about the Michigan FBody Association is that we are NOT a club! The Michigan FBody Association is open to everyone, and is a community. Thus, we will have get togethers, casual cruises, events, and such like that, but this is not an exclusive club and it's 100% free to join this site! So what are you waiting for? Register now!
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if you have to cut any bolts for the control arms or panhard bar MAKE SURE you buy hardened bolts. Regular grade bolts will break and it wont be pretty
theres a good reason most people do the trap door method, but I feel ya on not wanting to cut anything.
I just replaced the control arms and panhard bar in June. The drive shaft has been taken out at least 4 times since I have owned the car. The latest one being in Aug. when I got the 6spd swap done. Today I'm going to change the filter and then check pressure, then when it doesn't work I'll get the fuel pump stuff ordered. Thanks for all the help.
I'm surprised everyone has problems with those bolts, my car has seen winters before I owned it and I removed mine like any other bolt on the car, no heat or cutting was required.
It felt like I hit the redline there was no loud kaboom, and it still read oil pressure. There was no flickering that I could see but it has done that before. You thinking Computer? I'm thinking possible timing chain jumped 180 degrees, and computer the only code I got was p0342 bank1 cam sensor which comes on after cranking for a long time.
hmmm weird, well I don't by any means think the chain jumped, I have never even heard of anything close an any LS cars. I would try and replace the cam sensor though. I had a similar thing happen to me but all the lights in the car flickered and went out as well and it ended up being a loose ground, I don't think that is your case though.
I also figured out the dumb S.O.B that had my car before me took the shrader valve off to put a fuel pressure gauge on it it has a big stack of brass fittings and a sending unit. There is no valve. Why are shrader valve replacements so hard to find? Is the only way to fix it replace the whole rail?
the valve should be about the same as a tire valve, but I would just keep those fittings and the sending unit is like a $90 part if its an autometer. I would see if you can just buy the gauge and wiring harness and monitor it at all times.
Definitely can't be the timing chain jumped 180 - they don't even jump 5 degrees. It's just impossible for them to do.
From everything I have heard, thats the truth. The biggest bummer is I have done everything I could I checked the Coils the plugs, fuel pressure made sure the MAF wasn't blocked and air was going in everything I could think of. I don't have the diagnostic software. The only DTC I got was p0342 Bank1 camshaft sensor. So I did some research as to where that is and its not an easy or fun task, nor do I even know if thats the problem. It'll sit there and backfire when I crank it which is why I though it was TC. I guess I have to bite the bullet and get it towed to Sunshine and pay.
It is very possible that it could be the cam sensor. They are fairly inexpensive ~ $70.00 compaired to having it towed and having someone else work on it. You might want to check that out first. Sometimes they break off around the connector. Sometimes it is just a bad connection at were the connector plugs in. Try unplugging it and plugging it back in . Then try to start it. Sometimes it is an internal problem with the sensor. You could take the sensor out and check it with an Ohm meter. It should have a fairly low reading on the OHM meter. If it is open then it is bad. replace it. Get a volt/ohm meter and set it to read 0 - 500 ohms. Unplug the cam sensor and measure across the leads on the sensor. Your meter should show a resistance of between 55 - 300 ohms.If it's out of that range by much; replace it.
Last edited by ezcruisn71; December 27th, 2009, 06:21 PM.
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357ci LT1, cammed, stalled, and driven. 
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