Sure, whats your email addy? Oh, and what kind of afgs is your car reading at full throttle in the upper rpm ranges? Thanks Eric L
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LT1, OBD1, M6, high idle issue
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1997 Camaro SS #2819 M6, Red, 3.42, 1 of 27, Ttops, BBK shorty headers, Flowmaster cat back, 1.6 rr, LT4 valve springs, ASAM CAI, Centerforce clutch, runs 12s, breaks 10 bolts.
http://s602.photobucket.com/albums/t...20Camaro%20SS/

1963 Plymouth Valiant Signet 200, 6.0 LS3, Carb, Rapid Motorsports Dominator 2X cam.
http://s602.photobucket.com/albums/t...uth%20Valiant/
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i'd def address the knock you're getting. do you know if you have anything hitting the exhaust or anything like that. maybe a lt4 knock module, it was better than the lt1 module, would desensitize the knock sensor some. my car was auto and would show knock at shifts when on a sticky tire.
when you go wot, its like open loop and the car doesn't correct based off the o2's thats why the fuel trims go to 128, which is dead on for datamaster, so you look at the o2 millivolts and upper 800's to low 900's is good.
what you can to do help show what cells you'd want to change to make effects. open the log, hit view -> histogram and then arrow to pull the cursor to the right on the graph from the main window. it will show you how many times you hit each rpm cell and then change the color depending on the reading. but really, your short trim cells look pretty good

i really wish i had my old files, my computer died a while back and i lost everything i had lt1 wise
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My e-mail is meissen@mifbody.com
Just for shits and giggles, I've got a handful of datamaster log files you can check out if you want - they range from "OH MY GOD!!! TURN IT OFF, TURN IT OFF NOW!!!!!!!!!" to a good tune.
http://www.meissenation.com/datamaster/
Here's the most recent one:
http://meissenation.com/datamaster/T...B%20Tuning.uni
I have a little spark retard in mine but I think it's mostly exhaust related - seems to only happen when I blip the converter.
Datamaster.png
Just posting it so you can download mine if you'd like.Last edited by meissen; October 12th, 2009, 06:56 PM.- Brian Meissen
Owner, MiFBody.com
Administrator, LTxTech.com

1994 Camaro LT1 Transplant -
357ci LT1, cammed, stalled, and driven. 
2022 Camaro LT1 - "Cherry Bomb 2"Michigan FBody Meet & Greet Car Show 2022
June 4th, 2022 - 9am to 3pm!!!
The HUB Stadium, Auburn Hills, MI
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Also - just so ya know, I posted the screen shot with my TPS at 100%-wot. My AFGS was 211.40 in the screen shot.- Brian Meissen
Owner, MiFBody.com
Administrator, LTxTech.com

1994 Camaro LT1 Transplant -
357ci LT1, cammed, stalled, and driven. 
2022 Camaro LT1 - "Cherry Bomb 2"Michigan FBody Meet & Greet Car Show 2022
June 4th, 2022 - 9am to 3pm!!!
The HUB Stadium, Auburn Hills, MI
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Thanks for the tips. So it sounds like everything is normal. I will adress the timing retard in those specific cells. Thanks again. Brian, why is your car running in open loop the entire run? Your not running an open loop tune are you? I emailed you mine to check out. Our data runs actually look a lot a like. Thanks Eric L
1997 Camaro SS #2819 M6, Red, 3.42, 1 of 27, Ttops, BBK shorty headers, Flowmaster cat back, 1.6 rr, LT4 valve springs, ASAM CAI, Centerforce clutch, runs 12s, breaks 10 bolts.
http://s602.photobucket.com/albums/t...20Camaro%20SS/

1963 Plymouth Valiant Signet 200, 6.0 LS3, Carb, Rapid Motorsports Dominator 2X cam.
http://s602.photobucket.com/albums/t...uth%20Valiant/
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lol brian....i got enough here from efilive with the other headache, just don't have a fancy server set up!
just remembered editing the ve tables won't make much of a difference because the car is in closed loop and taking corrections from the maf. but really since the car is fairly stock, the ve tables should be pretty decent, and you could edit the maf. just have to find where you want to edit, look at the afgs, take that back to tunercat and edit 1 of the 4 maf tables, depending where you are at in the table. if you do any, just try little changes and smooth the cells around the one you edit
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How do you edit the maf tables based on afgs? This part of tuning is kind of new to me. If you wouldnt mind explaining a little bit, I would appreciate it. Thanks a bunch man for all the help. Eric L
1997 Camaro SS #2819 M6, Red, 3.42, 1 of 27, Ttops, BBK shorty headers, Flowmaster cat back, 1.6 rr, LT4 valve springs, ASAM CAI, Centerforce clutch, runs 12s, breaks 10 bolts.
http://s602.photobucket.com/albums/t...20Camaro%20SS/

1963 Plymouth Valiant Signet 200, 6.0 LS3, Carb, Rapid Motorsports Dominator 2X cam.
http://s602.photobucket.com/albums/t...uth%20Valiant/
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Yeah, mine's an open loop tune.Originally posted by prorac1 View PostThanks for the tips. So it sounds like everything is normal. I will adress the timing retard in those specific cells. Thanks again. Brian, why is your car running in open loop the entire run? Your not running an open loop tune are you? I emailed you mine to check out. Our data runs actually look a lot a like. Thanks Eric L
--Double post auto merged--
Oh no, I was just posting it for Eric to take a look at and compare with his. While mine is a cammed, open loop tune, etc, it's tuned and runs great so I figured it was worth comparing the two.Originally posted by steve40 View Postlol brian....i got enough here from efilive with the other headache, just don't have a fancy server set up!
- Brian Meissen
Owner, MiFBody.com
Administrator, LTxTech.com

1994 Camaro LT1 Transplant -
357ci LT1, cammed, stalled, and driven. 
2022 Camaro LT1 - "Cherry Bomb 2"Michigan FBody Meet & Greet Car Show 2022
June 4th, 2022 - 9am to 3pm!!!
The HUB Stadium, Auburn Hills, MI
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Why are you running an open loop tune? Isnt it basically a heads and cam 357? Millage and driveability would be stellar with a closed loop tune. I guess its preferance, but id always take a closed loop over open loop. Sometimes in forced induction with higher boost levels people will go open loop for simplicity, but you can run some insane power levels N/A with closed loop. JHMO, Eric L
1997 Camaro SS #2819 M6, Red, 3.42, 1 of 27, Ttops, BBK shorty headers, Flowmaster cat back, 1.6 rr, LT4 valve springs, ASAM CAI, Centerforce clutch, runs 12s, breaks 10 bolts.
http://s602.photobucket.com/albums/t...20Camaro%20SS/

1963 Plymouth Valiant Signet 200, 6.0 LS3, Carb, Rapid Motorsports Dominator 2X cam.
http://s602.photobucket.com/albums/t...uth%20Valiant/
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When Steve tuned my car, he explained to me that he personally likes to do MAF tunes for relatively stock cars, open loop for cars that have a medium cam because the PCM is a little slow to compute with the o2s, maf, etc, and for really modified cars he does speed density.Originally posted by prorac1 View PostWhy are you running an open loop tune? Isnt it basically a heads and cam 357? Millage and driveability would be stellar with a closed loop tune. I guess its preferance, but id always take a closed loop over open loop. Sometimes in forced induction with higher boost levels people will go open loop for simplicity, but you can run some insane power levels N/A with closed loop. JHMO, Eric L- Brian Meissen
Owner, MiFBody.com
Administrator, LTxTech.com

1994 Camaro LT1 Transplant -
357ci LT1, cammed, stalled, and driven. 
2022 Camaro LT1 - "Cherry Bomb 2"Michigan FBody Meet & Greet Car Show 2022
June 4th, 2022 - 9am to 3pm!!!
The HUB Stadium, Auburn Hills, MI
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What kind of millage are you getting? Does the computer have any other way to compensate for bad gas, or a weak fuel pump. I always liked the o2s as a backup for stuff happening. Ive never played with open loop tunes much, but I was running closed loop on a 7psi procharged Lt1. Like I said its all personal preferance, but ive seen some pretty wild setups running closed loop. Im trying to get that tunercat program, but for some reason it keeps getting lost in my email somewhere. So its still in the works, its just taking more time than I planned. Ill keep ya updated. Eric L
1997 Camaro SS #2819 M6, Red, 3.42, 1 of 27, Ttops, BBK shorty headers, Flowmaster cat back, 1.6 rr, LT4 valve springs, ASAM CAI, Centerforce clutch, runs 12s, breaks 10 bolts.
http://s602.photobucket.com/albums/t...20Camaro%20SS/

1963 Plymouth Valiant Signet 200, 6.0 LS3, Carb, Rapid Motorsports Dominator 2X cam.
http://s602.photobucket.com/albums/t...uth%20Valiant/
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I'm getting about 16-20 depending on how much I have my foot in the gas. More often than not my foot has the gas all the way to the floor, though.Originally posted by prorac1 View PostWhat kind of millage are you getting? Does the computer have any other way to compensate for bad gas, or a weak fuel pump. I always liked the o2s as a backup for stuff happening. Ive never played with open loop tunes much, but I was running closed loop on a 7psi procharged Lt1. Like I said its all personal preferance, but ive seen some pretty wild setups running closed loop. Im trying to get that tunercat program, but for some reason it keeps getting lost in my email somewhere. So its still in the works, its just taking more time than I planned. Ill keep ya updated. Eric L
I don't believe without taking readings from the o2s that it could compensate, that's a good point. Never really thought much of it.
- Brian Meissen
Owner, MiFBody.com
Administrator, LTxTech.com

1994 Camaro LT1 Transplant -
357ci LT1, cammed, stalled, and driven. 
2022 Camaro LT1 - "Cherry Bomb 2"Michigan FBody Meet & Greet Car Show 2022
June 4th, 2022 - 9am to 3pm!!!
The HUB Stadium, Auburn Hills, MI
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Well the good part is once I get you the programing you can tinker with closed loop. Im still learning stuff and ive been tinkering with it for 4 years off and on. Ill keep you updated. Eric L
1997 Camaro SS #2819 M6, Red, 3.42, 1 of 27, Ttops, BBK shorty headers, Flowmaster cat back, 1.6 rr, LT4 valve springs, ASAM CAI, Centerforce clutch, runs 12s, breaks 10 bolts.
http://s602.photobucket.com/albums/t...20Camaro%20SS/

1963 Plymouth Valiant Signet 200, 6.0 LS3, Carb, Rapid Motorsports Dominator 2X cam.
http://s602.photobucket.com/albums/t...uth%20Valiant/
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eric, to edit the maf table, you adjust the air flow numbers. really need a wide band, so say at 200 g/s, your wideband reads one way, then you find 200 g/s and then incease or decease the values on the maf table there. pretty much recalibrating the maf to think at a certain hz its seeing a different amount of air flow.
but really, if you don't have any driving issues, everything looked good cept for the knock.
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Thanks for the info steve. No, other than the knock I have NO driveability problems. I zeroed out the burst knock table, just to eliminate that posibility. I did notice that im running quite rich at idle, any way to correct for that? To me it seemed that the entire run, minus the full throttle run, was kinda rich acording to the BLMs. Thanks again for all your help. Eric L
1997 Camaro SS #2819 M6, Red, 3.42, 1 of 27, Ttops, BBK shorty headers, Flowmaster cat back, 1.6 rr, LT4 valve springs, ASAM CAI, Centerforce clutch, runs 12s, breaks 10 bolts.
http://s602.photobucket.com/albums/t...20Camaro%20SS/

1963 Plymouth Valiant Signet 200, 6.0 LS3, Carb, Rapid Motorsports Dominator 2X cam.
http://s602.photobucket.com/albums/t...uth%20Valiant/
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