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  • Need Intake help?

    Okay Second rebuild and my Intake is still leaking in the back, I SWEAR TO GOD i used half a tube of the silcon and its still leaking, not as bad as before but still really annoying.

    Is there anything i can actually do to forever stop this leak. theres a few pits in the intake underneath but i doubt that could cause it with as much silicon as i used, it holds up for about 2 weeks each time then blows out as usual. i know lt1s leak but cmon... i used thread sealer on the bolts, and i tightened them to all hell so thats not it.

    It just litterally blows out after 2 weeks, then i have oil again on my block.


    I scraped the block with a knife, then i brake cleanered it so it was clean, then i siliconed the hell out of it.
    Last edited by Kwazrollinz28; June 11th, 2009, 06:22 PM.


  • #2
    Do you have a breather on your valve cover. Maybe you have to much crankcase pressure. Passenger side rear valve cover opening is for breather.
    sigpic
    1998 Trans Am Convertible A4 - WS6 hood, WS6 air lid, WS6 rims, drilled/slotted rotors.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by Plum Nuts View Post
      Do you have a breather on your valve cover. Maybe you have to much crankcase pressure. Passenger side rear valve cover opening is for breather.

      i have the stock valve covers, there's a Tube going from the Valve cover on the passenger side to the throttle body but thats about it.
      You think new valve covers with breathers would help me?

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      • #4
        I would try using Super Black RTV because it can withstand oil, make sure that your silicone doesn't get eaten away by the oil because that might be what's weakening it. Also just snug the intake on first, wait for the sealant to cure, then torque it down. If you torque it right away you're just squeezing all of the silicone out of the gap.

        Used to own a Firebird.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Fbomb View Post
          I would try using Super Black RTV because it can withstand oil, make sure that your silicone doesn't get eaten away by the oil because that might be what's weakening it. Also just snug the intake on first, wait for the sealant to cure, then torque it down. If you torque it right away you're just squeezing all of the silicone out of the gap.
          i waited about 5-7mins cause i had to find all the bolts and where they went.
          So next ill try the superblack, High temp stuff

          i let the intake sit for 5 mins put 4 bolts in 2 in the front and 2 in the back that way i had it in place then waited a little bit. then i put the rest in and started tightening.

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          • #6
            yeah could be wrong silicon, we got a tube of the high temp super black with the gasket kit. did brians twice knock on wood no leaks yet.
            sigpic
            1998 Trans Am Convertible A4 - WS6 hood, WS6 air lid, WS6 rims, drilled/slotted rotors.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Plum Nuts View Post
              yeah could be wrong silicon, we got a tube of the high temp super black with the gasket kit. did brians twice knock on wood no leaks yet.
              yep ill try that, my dad said i wouldn't need any of that high temp stuff, but this is getting annoying.

              leaks annoy me more then anything. oh well ill get to paint my intake the right colors this time its always fun right lol

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              • #8
                i would wait a few hours before torquing the intake down next time.
                Doing less with more


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                • #9
                  i musta got lucky then, after my cam swap i just put a new gasket on and no issues
                  wishing i could drive like joe and the atm squad

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Plum Nuts View Post
                    yeah could be wrong silicon, we got a tube of the high temp super black with the gasket kit. did brians twice knock on wood no leaks yet.
                    Haha well... keep in mind the first build only lasted one week. This time around it's been 2 weeks but it hasn't been driven every day.
                    - Brian Meissen
                    Owner, MiFBody.com
                    Administrator, LTxTech.com


                    1994 Camaro LT1 Transplant - 357ci LT1, cammed, stalled, and driven.
                    2022 Camaro LT1 - "Cherry Bomb 2"
                    Michigan FBody Meet & Greet Car Show 2022
                    June 4th, 2022 - 9am to 3pm!!!
                    The HUB Stadium, Auburn Hills, MI

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                    • #11
                      Is it blowing the RTV out of the gap or is it just a failure in one of the bonding interfaces?

                      If you are blowing the RTV out you have internal issues...if it's just a bond failure you have operator error issues.
                      sigpic
                      Turbo Charged LS1/T56

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                      • #12
                        I waited like 5 hrs. when I did my trans. pan gasket for the last time, last summer on the '86.

                        Used to own a Firebird.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Fbomb View Post
                          I waited like 5 hrs. when I did my trans. pan gasket for the last time, last summer on the '86.
                          FYI...you never supposed to use RTV on a trans pan gasket. Little chunks eventually break off of the bead from the inside and get pumped through all those tiny ports in the valve body.
                          sigpic
                          Turbo Charged LS1/T56

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                          • #14
                            ^^^ Thanks for the info!
                            1999 Camaro - 6 liters of fury.....

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                            • #15
                              You do have 250 miles on it
                              sigpic
                              1998 Trans Am Convertible A4 - WS6 hood, WS6 air lid, WS6 rims, drilled/slotted rotors.

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