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Car shakes violently when brakes applied

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  • #16
    When this happened to me, I found that the control arm bushings (most prominently, upper) had worn to the point where they let the front wheels shift forward and backward (the shaking was because the slightest difference in pressure would make the wheels shift at higher speeds). I ended up putting polys throughout and haven't had a problem in about 3 years. Just gotta squirt a little grease in the bushings every year.

    If you can raise the front end and move the wheels back and forth, if this is the case, it will be frighteningly evident at the upper bushings.
    Last edited by steddy; February 10th, 2009, 01:23 PM.
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    • #17
      Rotors!



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      • #18
        I don't think anyone is arguing against you, Steddy? Not sure what the defensive post is about?
        - Brian Meissen
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        • #19
          Originally posted by Plum Nuts View Post
          If this is a daily driver I would expect a piston to be hung up, because of salt piston corodes seizes up, then you are flexing rotor to stop. I would pop off the pads have someone slowly push the brake pedal and see if the piston moves. do one side at a time. If its frozen you can pump it out. I have cleaned then with 400 grit wet dry paper and reused them. LOL I know thats not by the book but a cheap fix till spring then put on new caliper. If this is the case pack the boot of the caliper piston with High temp grease. It will keep the salt from doing it again. Old trick I learned on english sports cars.
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          • #20
            My brake pads are still good, I dont need to change them when I put on the new rotors will I?

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            • #21
              no sir not nessecary but you will have to push the piston back to get them to fit on the new rotors. make shure you clean up the hub flange
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              • #22
                No if you have plenty of pad thickness. It may not be the rotors though.
                To check your rotor to see if they are out of round, pull your car up along side a tree, 341/2 inches to be exact. take off wheel. now with a yard stick rotate the rotor and measure agsinst the yard stick and see if they wobble. hehehehe I'm just kidding.
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                • #23
                  So Larry, am I supposed to measure from the base of the trunk of the tree, or a foot off the ground?

                  I've read that the 1 foot off is a better approach, but I thought I'd ask your opinion.












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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by MP81 View Post
                    So Larry, am I supposed to measure from the base of the trunk of the tree, or a foot off the ground?

                    I've read that the 1 foot off is a better approach, but I thought I'd ask your opinion.











                    Actually 13 7/16 inches is the best, but sometimes there is a knot in the tree trunk so it can vary a little.
                    Last edited by 98blackbeauty; February 27th, 2009, 06:35 PM.
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                    1998 Trans Am Convertible A4 - WS6 hood, WS6 air lid, WS6 rims, drilled/slotted rotors.

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                    • #25

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                      • #26
                        Were They cheap rotors? Ive noticed any of the cheap rotors warp with very low miles on them it could have just been water but if they where cheap Id go ahead and get a good set if cash permits also before I would reuse the old pads It check and make sure there all wearing evenly

                        any warranty on the old ones?
                        Last edited by mtuggle86; February 28th, 2009, 01:19 PM.
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                        • #27
                          lots of good info here, sounds like i needed new rotors on my 94' had the same problems you are delarosa


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                          • #28
                            no warranty I believe.. dont really remember

                            when I get my tax money I will be changing them out

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