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  • Window Motor Help

    My window motor blows, I'm sick of it so I decided to change it. Got door panel, etc taken off but don't know where to go from there. The only install guide tells me to drill thru my door to get to the motor rivets. Ok, where do I drill thru? Any one help please?

    2011 Mustang GT
    20" Satin Black AMRs with 305/35 & 275/35 MT Street Radials, Saleen Grille, CS Lower Valance, Roush Axleback, GT500 Spoiler, resonator delete

    In Progress: Brembo 6-piston brake upgrade



  • #2
    Originally posted by k0261886 View Post
    My window motor blows, I'm sick of it so I decided to change it. Got door panel, etc taken off but don't know where to go from there. The only install guide tells me to drill thru my door to get to the motor rivets. Ok, where do I drill thru? Any one help please?
    guide should show you exactly where the rivets are, Just look for the rivets holding the window motor and drill them out.. Should be pretty obvious what the metal circle little rivets are. then just put the new window motor in and put bolts/nuts through the holes and attach.

    PS this doesnt happen to be your passenger window does it? If it is I highly reccommend doing the autotrix passenger window rewire kit. It speeds up the motor A LOT. I replaced my passenger side once and after less than a year it was slow already, did the rewire kit and the thing flys now, it goes up faster than my perfectly good drivers side motor. I HIGHLY reccommend.
    -Derek-
    1999 Pontiac Trans Am Ram Air- Lots of Boltons..

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    • #3
      The autotrix kit is awesome...if the guide doesnt have pics google it and yu can easily find one that does.
      2011 Ford Raptor SuperCrew
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      2000 Camaro Z28
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      2.55 Lingenfelter Pulley and Injectors waiting to go on!
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      • #4
        Not sure what guide you're using, I used this one.. Has some pics to give you an idea where the rivets are.. And if you miss, no big deal, no one will ever know but you..
        http://shbox.com/page/windowmotor.html
        sigpic
        U.S. Army 1983-2005
        11.20@122.37 1.51 60'

        Originally posted by WMCCjames

        "Plans Subject to change upon Sobering up"

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        • #5
          thanks Larry, that was actually the one I was using, but I printed it off and I must have missed a few pages, lol

          2011 Mustang GT
          20" Satin Black AMRs with 305/35 & 275/35 MT Street Radials, Saleen Grille, CS Lower Valance, Roush Axleback, GT500 Spoiler, resonator delete

          In Progress: Brembo 6-piston brake upgrade


          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by k0261886 View Post
            thanks Larry, that was actually the one I was using, but I printed it off and I must have missed a few pages, lol
            No problem Kyle.. Have fun..
            sigpic
            U.S. Army 1983-2005
            11.20@122.37 1.51 60'

            Originally posted by WMCCjames

            "Plans Subject to change upon Sobering up"

            Comment


            • #7
              UPDATE: I'm doing this right now and got all the way to drilling out the rivets, but before I got all the way through one of them it started spinning and I can't drill anymore cause it just turns with the drill bit. Any suggestions?

              2011 Mustang GT
              20" Satin Black AMRs with 305/35 & 275/35 MT Street Radials, Saleen Grille, CS Lower Valance, Roush Axleback, GT500 Spoiler, resonator delete

              In Progress: Brembo 6-piston brake upgrade


              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by my95z28 View Post
                UPDATE: I'm doing this right now and got all the way to drilling out the rivets, but before I got all the way through one of them it started spinning and I can't drill anymore cause it just turns with the drill bit. Any suggestions?
                Take a punch and knock it out.. As long as you got started drilling shouldn't take much to knock it out(make sure the punch is smaller than the drill you were using)...
                sigpic
                U.S. Army 1983-2005
                11.20@122.37 1.51 60'

                Originally posted by WMCCjames

                "Plans Subject to change upon Sobering up"

                Comment


                • #9
                  Thanks Larry! Worked great. It's in and working fine now. Left the door panel off so that I can get some locktite on the nuts tomorrow.

                  2011 Mustang GT
                  20" Satin Black AMRs with 305/35 & 275/35 MT Street Radials, Saleen Grille, CS Lower Valance, Roush Axleback, GT500 Spoiler, resonator delete

                  In Progress: Brembo 6-piston brake upgrade


                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by my95z28 View Post
                    Thanks Larry! Worked great. It's in and working fine now. Left the door panel off so that I can get some locktite on the nuts tomorrow.
                    Cool, glad you got it out!!
                    sigpic
                    U.S. Army 1983-2005
                    11.20@122.37 1.51 60'

                    Originally posted by WMCCjames

                    "Plans Subject to change upon Sobering up"

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I would suggest riviting them back on.

                      Unless you know 100% those bolts are the right size and they are tight enough.

                      I had to change the one on my 94 Firebird. The person who changed the motor before me just bolted it in. Yeah, it was loose and all my holes were oblonged. (door being fiberglass) I had to drill 1 size bigger and use bigger rivets to hold it in place.

                      Rivets are the way to go IMO. If you have that option.
                      sigpic

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                      • #12
                        congrats on a successful fbody window motor swap!

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by tenpin842 View Post
                          I would suggest riviting them back on.

                          Unless you know 100% those bolts are the right size and they are tight enough.

                          I had to change the one on my 94 Firebird. The person who changed the motor before me just bolted it in. Yeah, it was loose and all my holes were oblonged. (door being fiberglass) I had to drill 1 size bigger and use bigger rivets to hold it in place.

                          Rivets are the way to go IMO. If you have that option.
                          Agreed, I riveted mine back in.. I told him he should rivet his as well, but I was out voted by everyone else which is why he went with the bolts...
                          sigpic
                          U.S. Army 1983-2005
                          11.20@122.37 1.51 60'

                          Originally posted by WMCCjames

                          "Plans Subject to change upon Sobering up"

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by OIF1VET View Post
                            Agreed, I riveted mine back in.. I told him he should rivet his as well, but I was out voted by everyone else which is why he went with the bolts...
                            my motor came with the nuts and bolts so I used those. My holes drilled when removing rivets were almost the perfect size though, got them nice and tight and im not even gonna worry about it. Two years later it works perfect yet..
                            If im remembering right it may have even had locking washers too?
                            -Derek-
                            1999 Pontiac Trans Am Ram Air- Lots of Boltons..

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              I only did the window motor, so I was drilling the rivets out of the steel bracket that the window motor is attached to so I figured bolts would be fine. Although I think that your right, if I had taken them out of the fiberglass I would have riveted them back in. One thing I have to recommend is to wear a longsleeve shirt, I am SOOOO itchy today, lol.

                              2011 Mustang GT
                              20" Satin Black AMRs with 305/35 & 275/35 MT Street Radials, Saleen Grille, CS Lower Valance, Roush Axleback, GT500 Spoiler, resonator delete

                              In Progress: Brembo 6-piston brake upgrade


                              Comment

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