next question, should I do the regulator and the motor at the same time, or will I be okay with just the motor? Motor = 57, motor+regulator= 99
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no power options ftw!!Originally posted by JoeliusZ28 View Posti wonder how tough it is to convert to manual windows... ive got four of these things to worry about now
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Sold!
www.fquick.com/lozanoa11
94 Grand Cherokee (sold)
95 Accord(for sale)
99 Outback (snow destroyer)
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Don't do it. . . window regulator (crank) assembly in my Camaro was trashed after about 260k miles, so I tried to find one somewhere. . . Dealership would have to order it, Autozone, Advance, Murray's, etc., didn't have it, so I went to a junkyard. . . Cheap, part had 20k on it, installed it, and it lasted maybe a week. Bought another one from the dealer, that one also died after about two months. Power windows are easier to deal with. Buy the parts with the warranty, then it's just about finding time to change them rather than buying parts as well. . .Originally posted by JoeliusZ28 View Posti wonder how tough it is to convert to manual windows... ive got four of these things to worry about now
Nick H.
Current MIFC Vice President
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I reccomend NOT listening to him.. lol, dont rivet them back, it will probably go out again before your car owning days are done so you mine as well make it easy on yourself. I had the same exact problem you had only with my passenger window, my driver window has always seemed to run louder so I think that one was replaced before I got the car. If I might add you should do the autotrix passenger window fix, it speeds up the passenger window like crazy and is supposed to increase lifespan, I installed that wiring kit and was shocked at how fast the window goes up now.Originally posted by OIF1VET View PostNo problem! I recommend riveting the motor back in place, don't use the screws that come with it..-Derek-
1999 Pontiac Trans Am Ram Air- Lots of Boltons..

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Just replaced mine today using a cheap one from ebay. They are sold for $13 with lifetime replacement. It seems to work fine so far, i'll let u guys know if it dies prematurely.....sigpic1994 Camaro Z28 83K M6, CAI, AFR 190cc, 11.6:1, Hooker headers, Hooker ORY, Mangnaflow exhaust, AI 230/238, 1.6 RR, B&M Short throw, Hays clutch, 4.10 gear.
Member: The Mid Michigan Modern Muscle Car Club
manuals should be launched off the limiter and the throttle shouldn't leave the floor til 10 feet after the finish line
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a guy on ls1tech sels a rewire kit for the pass window so more power goes to it which helps the window motor as well, since i guess the pass window gets its power from the drivers switch or something retarted like thatsigpic
The LS1 or Go Home Crew
ASE master certified
1998 Camarbo z28-going back to stock
11.3@121 old heads & cam setup
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