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  • Shifter handle keeps coming loose

    Ok this is a pretty simple problem... the shifter handle on my Pro 5.0 keeps coming loose. I have torqued the allen head bolts for all I am worth and pretty much stripped them from doing so, so many times and it still just keeps coming loose. Jon is having the same problem with his factory hurst shifter. With the pistol grip and my speed shifting... it just keeps happening. Anyone have any suggestions? Ive tried loctite, teflon, you name it... does anyone here have a simple remedy? about ready to yank the whole thing and run some serious bolts through it. Im not sure how much room i have to drill out, but thats just a matter of looking...
    Last edited by JoeliusZ28; May 5th, 2008, 11:47 AM.
    -Joel
    1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
    1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


    WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop

  • #2
    loctite?

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    • #3
      Hammer?
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      • #4
        lol i guess this was a stupid question, im gonna go take it apart and i see what i can fabricate.
        -Joel
        1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
        1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


        WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop

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        • #5
          I have also had this problem.. it doesnt matter what you use it ALWAYS comes loose. might have to make some sort of bracket to hold it.
          -08 G8 GT DD: Rotofab CAI, HID's, Breyton Race GTS'
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          • #6
            Welder!!!
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            • #7
              Get a Hurst Lock nuts for the win.
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              • #8
                The way i see it, the designer of the Pro 5.0 failed on 4 levels with just the handle screws:

                1) allen head screws - impossible to get leverage on

                2) allen head is an oddball size, so they strip easy (but the rest of the allen screws on the shifter fit perfect)

                3) the screws arent long enough to put a lock nut on the other side which would solve the problem

                4) the screws are an oddball thread... not regular or fine, no theyre their own special type.... so none of the 3000 bolts my dad has laying around are any good.


                Im thinking about taking the whole thing out and drilling it out.... i just really dont feel like messing with my console.
                -Joel
                1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
                1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


                WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop

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                • #9
                  I haven't had the problem since I started using red loctite on mine

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                  • #10
                    Pull it and redrill and retap I say then use your own bolts with lock washers and loctite
                    Doing less with more


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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by JoeliusZ28 View Post
                      ....4) the screws are an oddball thread... not regular or fine, no theyre their own special type.... so none of the 3000 bolts my dad has laying around are any good......
                      I bet they're metric.
                      Last edited by WMCC Gary; May 6th, 2008, 10:23 AM.
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                      • #12
                        I guess I've never seen the Pro 5.0 shifter in person. I figured the stick was bolted on like the Hurst is. The only thing I had issues with is my pistol grip kept coming loose but some red loctite fixed that. Just hope I never need to take it off!!!

                        _____________________________________________
                        Wade
                        2002 Camaro SS T Top Black M6 SLP 345HP
                        1985 Camaro IROC Z28 T Top Silver 305TPI Auto
                        2003 S10 Blazer 2 door 2wd 4.3 auto lowered 3" daily driver

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                        • #13
                          The bolts are metric. That's why you can't find a "correct" size laying around. Now that you have fubar'ed the threads up your only option is to drill out the holes and re-tap to a larger size or through bolt it if you have the room in your console.
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                          • #14
                            yea i was going to fix my post last night, i figured out they were metric not even 10 minutes later, when i found some of my spare motorcycle bolts fit. Im checking for a longer variant at my dads work, if there isnt one there im going to go to the auto parts store or home depot and get one. That way i can put a lock nut on the end and it will be a closed book.

                            And james the threads arent fubared up... the original bolt's threads are fubared up in the middle, but its from the force of shifting. I havent been forcing the wrong bolts in there or anything. I compare to the original before i just go forcing things.

                            Originally posted by 1BADAIR View Post
                            I haven't had the problem since I started using red loctite on mine
                            guess i must be a little rougher with mine, red loctite didnt work at all for me.
                            Last edited by JoeliusZ28; May 6th, 2008, 11:40 AM.
                            -Joel
                            1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
                            1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


                            WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by JoeliusZ28 View Post

                              And james the threads arent fubared up... the original bolt's threads are fubared up in the middle, but its from the force of shifting. I havent been forcing the wrong bolts in there or anything. I compare to the original before i just go forcing things.
                              Ah, there's your problem then, cheap bolts. No way a bolt should lose it's threads before a tapped hole. See if you can snag some 10.9 class bolts when you go get some new ones.....if not, let me know what size and I can probably get you some.
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