Sanden AC compressor & 1st gen,

[skar]

Sanden AC compressor. Classic auto air makes a kit to convert old compressor to the new Sanden compressor. I was told they work a lot better and use a hole lot less HP.
? Any body try one on ther 1st or 2nd gen,
My RPM drop by 200 when the AC is on you can feel it eating HP
And works like crap.

[TSTONE]

i thought you had installed a "classic air" system - are you still running the OEM stuff

[skar]

All stock. The car came with factory air.(POS)

[TSTONE]

if you are going to try to do it yourself here is the retro fit procrdure that Sanden says to use

http://www.sanden.com/support/retro.html

also ive read that a lot of people recommend Al Groves brackets when doing the refit

http://www.alangrovecomponents.com/

as for Hp loss - im still looking for #'s, an updated compressor would be lighter which would help with weight but im not sure how much inertia or resistance gains you would really see

couple questions:

how much freon are you losing/using annually?

what type of failures have you been experiencing?

[skar]

[quote=TSTONE;296425]if you are going to try to do it yourself here is the retro fit procrdure that Sanden says to use

http://www.sanden.com/support/retro.html

also ive read that a lot of people recommend Al Groves brackets when doing the refit

http://www.alangrovecomponents.com/

as for Hp loss - im still looking for #'s, an updated compressor would be lighter which would help with weight but im not sure how much inertia or resistance gains you would really

Classic auto says a lot ! the stock one sucks the life out of the motor.
yes ther are other iisues ? Heat mixing with air?
also kit come with brackets?
thanks for the info,

[TSTONE]

heat mixing with air is likely going to be a heater box issue with the blend door (PITA) - the reason i ask about freon loss is that on old systems upwards of a 1lb annual is considered acceptible loss

[skar]

ya I will have to have that looked into. With heat and air and fan off you can feel hot air still coming from vents. Vacuum controlled? bad dash switch (which is on order but back ordered remember my other post on that) With my back I can only do so much. You for sure know what I mean by that. $500 for the seden kit plus labor . Dam motor city steel should have made this a option for me before I put that other cash in the old rebuilt stuff..

[TSTONE]

here's what i found

"Class - lets all turn our Assembly Instruction Manuals to UPC-1, process instruction details #M2, #M3 and #M6
If you have the AIM there is a diagram of the heater assembly and the ducting is shown on the M3 page.
The instruction on page #M6 shows the cable routing and connections
This page also has the adjustment instructions IIRC ...

There are two (3) lever arms on the Heater Box assembly.
1 - is on the top of the box, to the right of the blower resistor - this is where the 'temp' cable hooks up (sounds like that's the one you're saying is there).
2 - is on the backside of the Heater Box assembly on the far left side - this lever is for the 'defrost' control cable. The cable hooks here and controls the position of the diverter-door that sends the air to the upper defrost vents or to the lower outlet to warm your toes.
3 - is also on the back of the heater box and controls the outside air inlet - this also controls the fan motor speed, the more you move the lever it opens the door more and increases the fan speeds.

There is an upper plenum assembly installed on the dash above the heater box that routes the air fron the heater box to the outlets in the dash top - this upper ducting has a small transistion piece that bolts to the heater box and the upper duct to funnel the air, these are often missing and can be hard to find. I think the repoppers now have it available though."

Hope this helps

[skar]

wow
thanks I will print this a keep it on file.
3 jobs for this season.
1)Fix hidden head lights (this is current project)
2) replace drivers side door window
3) fix AC

and no time.

[TSTONE]

heres some info that might help on your HL project

“Vacuum Actuated Headlamp Doors” 1969 RPO Z22 Brief History:
All three years of the first generation Camaro were available with the RPO Z22 “Rally Sport” option. Any Camaro could be ordered with the desirable “hidden headlights” starting with the most modest inline 6 cylinder right on up the food chain to the powerful COPO. In 1967 the headlight doors were opened and closed by electric motors, which Chevrolet quickly replaced with a vacuum actuated system in 1968. I do not know if the 1968 system was revised in 1969. This means if you have a ’68 RS Camaro use this information cautiously and have the correct year manuals referenced below to be sure...
Reference Material:
The Vacuum actuated headlight doors are just one of the features included on the 1969 (RPO Z22) Rally Sport Camaro. The intent of this tech feature is to aid you in understanding how this very simple vacuum circuitry is plumbed and works. Please reference the ‘1969 Camaro Factory Assembly Instruction Manual’ (AIM) RPO Z22 B6 (page 462) for part numbers and proper installation of hardware and routing of hoses.
The diagram I have included has been laid out in a way that depicts proper connections of hoses and components based on the AIM and will give you a feel for where everything belongs. They are not intended to show mounting and proper physical placement. For additional reference, the 1969 Chevrolet ‘Chassis Service Manual’ (CSM) also has information that may be of assistance to you (Section 12: Electrical-Body and Chassis: Lighting Systems starting on page 12-6 ‘Vacuum Operated Headlamp Service’).
Getting Started:
Take a good look at the diagram; let’s start with the vacuum source. You will find a vacuum line running from a fitting on the intake manifold across the firewall toward the driver side fender (the black hoses on the diagram).


Click Here to open diagram in a new window.
Note: Hoses are black or black with colored stripes and are as depicted in the AIM. These colors concur with the CSM with the exception of one of the black hoses, which is shown with a white stripe. I chose to default to the AIM for correctness as the CSM represents several of the Chevrolet line up with hidden headlights.
With the engine running, the headlights off and the override switch in the normal position there will be vacuum present on the black hoses, the yellow-striped hoses, the ‘Vacuum Tank’ and the middle port of the ‘Vacuum Relay’. You will also find vacuum present through the headlight switch and on the orange-striped hose from the headlight switch to the ‘Vacuum Relay’ and the green-striped hoses to the actuators. The doors will be closed under these conditions.
Take note of the one way check valve or "Vacuum Line Filter" (much like the one used in the power brake booster system) placed in the main vacuum line coming from the intake manifold. It keeps the system (black, orange, yellow and green-striped hoses) holding about 10" of vacuum when the engine is shut off. That is based on what I measured on my own system. At this point there is no vacuum present on the red-striped hoses.
The Operation:
The headlight doors operate (open) when the headlight switch is pulled out to the second position (headlights on) cutting off the vacuum to the orange-striped hose. This operates the ‘Vacuum Relay’ removing vacuum from the green-striped hoses and placing vacuum on the red-striped hoses to the actuators. This can also be accomplished by operating the over ride switch (pushing in the plunger) which plugs the orange-striped hose, removing vacuum at that point (same result as turning on the headlights).
Testing:
To test the system, start the engine and push the override plunger switch in on the ‘Vacuum Relay’, the doors should open. Pull out the plunger on the override and the doors should close. Do the same from the headlight switch. If they don’t open and close properly, or at all, make sure the mechanical parts of the doors are adjusted and working smoothly before tearing into the plumbing.
Assuming the mechanical parts all function properly you now know where vacuum should be under open and closed conditions. Trouble shoot by unplugging one hose at a time and verifying that vacuum is present or not. Reproduction actuators have had a bad rap in the past so you might want to start there. Verify the switches (Headlight and Vacuum Relay) are doing what they are supposed to as well. Hose kits have been known to have the ends get brittle and crack before they even get taken out of the box they are packed in so be alert for vacuum leaks too. If low idle vacuum is a concern, vacuum should increase with rpm so set your idle up a bit if you have to for testing.
End Results:
It’s a great feeling knowing your headlight doors open and close properly, it's the little pleasures in life, isn't it? Special thanks go out to Team Members Chad Renfro (CA420) and Todd Bradford (DTB) whose research and willingness to share their knowledge with TC has assisted me greatly with this tech reference page. Thanks guys!


Copyright © DjD 2003

[skar]

now copied
Thank you Todd