'02 Camaro - Lower A-Arm removal difficulty

[birdie2000]

So, I'm removing the front lower A-arms to replace the bushings and clean them up. The vertical bolt was hitting the body but I ultimately got it out with a hammer and a brass drift. The horizontal bolt, however, is being quite difficult. It's directly hitting the inner tie rod boot, and even having accepted that it's going to rip it, it seems the locking tab on the head of the bolt is still wanting to interface with the end of the rack itself. I figured I'd loosen the rack and move it around a bit, but there is no way in hell I can get those bolts out with the oil pan in the way. The only other option at this point is entirely removing the boot which I really don't want to do since I have no idea how to remove/reinstall the inside strap on the boot.

Is this normal or is my car f***ed up? If normal, any tricks?? Car only has 43k miles on it and doesn't show any signs of a serious hit.

[TylerT/AZ28]

i havent worked on a 4th gen but can you move the a arm upwards with a jack to resolve the bolt coming in contact with rack?

[birdie2000]

The a-arm moves freely by hand and there is no position that completely resolves this.

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[nascarnate326]

not what you want to hear but I just forced the damn thing out. I also used new a arms because it was a PITA to get the old bearing out.

You may want to consider putting it back in backwards.

[landstuhltaylor]

not what you want to hear but I just forced the damn thing out. I also used new a arms because it was a PITA to get the old bearing out.

You may want to consider putting it back in backwards.

This. They will come out as is but it sucks. It is possible to get the steering rack bolts out with the engine in place but you will need to cut the bolts. Do yourself a favor and put the bolts back in from the bottom with a nylock nut on top instead.

[birdie2000]

Fantastic. As much as that sucks, I'd much rather hear that than that my car is jacked up somehow.

Devin, you're referring to the steering rack bolts? If I take them out I intend to do that.

As for the horizontal A-arm bolt, it can only go in the one way because of the locking tab right? Not sure I'd feel comfortable with just a nylock nut on an alignment bolt.

While you're in here Devin, is there anything special I should know about replacing the bushings? I have one of those cool Moog problem solvers with the ball-cup design for the back one. I hear you're not supposed to press that bushing in all the way?

[zeeman]

Those bolts are placed that way as a safety factor. Should the nut back off they wont just fall out.

I just broke down 2 subframes. The one from Tennessee the bolts came right out of. The Mi. One I had to cut the bolts off of. the bolts are seized into the inner bushing due to rust. Of course once I cut the bolts the center sections came out with a few taps of a drift. Lots of penetrant, and heat the bolt as much as you can, to help free it up. Burn out the rubber if you have to. Take appropriate safety precautions of course. But heat is going to be key here. Heat and a good penetrating oil, pb blaster, kroil.

[birdie2000]

The bolts move freely, it's just obstructed by the steering rack

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[zeeman]

Offs. My bad. Reading fail. Lol

[landstuhltaylor]

Fantastic. As much as that sucks, I'd much rather hear that than that my car is jacked up somehow.

Devin, you're referring to the steering rack bolts? If I take them out I intend to do that.

As for the horizontal A-arm bolt, it can only go in the one way because of the locking tab right? Not sure I'd feel comfortable with just a nylock nut on an alignment bolt.

While you're in here Devin, is there anything special I should know about replacing the bushings? I have one of those cool Moog problem solvers with the ball-cup design for the back one. I hear you're not supposed to press that bushing in all the way?

Yes, referring to the steering rack bolts. I haven't used those bushings myself as I went a different direction and they aren't legal for my application. I would try to match the dimension in the arm of the original bushing. Should protrude on each side the same that the old one did unless Moog specifically says something different. Should be much better than the POS stock garbage I'm stuck with in that location.