Rear suspension heater hose mod question

[CT77]

My plan this winter was to lower my 2002 Camaro SS. I bought lowering springs from BMR in December. Now, after maybe way too much research and reading, I've decided against it. Reason is, I planned on doing shocks and springs. But, now it looks as if I need a adjusted panhard bar because the rear will be off center and LCA relocation brackets or it will wheel hop. Also, pinion angle will be off, possible vibrations, on and on. The car has 42k on it and rides fine. I don't want cause any unneeded issues. Plus, I was just going for looks, now it seems as if I would have to rebuild my suspension to make it right. So, my question, for those of you who have done the heater hose mod, any issues there? I know a lot of guys have done it and I haven't heard any negatives about it. But, you're lowering the car, why wouldn't all those same issues apply here? Pretty confused about it. Just looking for some insight on the whole deal. Thanks.

[hoogiesngrinderz]

Shouldn't have any problems with the heater hose, unless you're trying to squeeze 315's in the back.

I'm running the LT1 Eibach Pro-Kit on my 98, no problems with pinion angle or rub. I did put an adjustable panhard bar just to center it, but it was less than 1/4" shift. No LCA relocation brackets, doesn't wheel hop. My IROC is lowered even more w/o brackets, but I do have tubular/adjustable components out back.

[Blue04ss]

I had the heater hose mod done with a 315 tire with no issues unless I had people in the back which would rub in bigger dips but it was rare. I have now installed the eibach prokit springs in the rear without the adjustable panhard or the LCAs and didn't notice much difference but I haven't put many miles with the new setup.

[CT77]

Shouldn't have any problems with the heater hose, unless you're trying to squeeze 315's in the back.

I'm running the LT1 Eibach Pro-Kit on my 98, no problems with pinion angle or rub. I did put an adjustable panhard bar just to center it, but it was less than 1/4" shift. No LCA relocation brackets, doesn't wheel hop. My IROC is lowered even more w/o brackets, but I do have tubular/adjustable components out back.

Yeah, I'd just be running the stock tires out back. That's the thing, you have no relocation brackets and have no problems. The rear only shifted 1/4", which is barely noticeable. You read all these horror stories and think only the worse. Not sure what I wanna do. Like I said I already have the springs, so it's either roll with it, or just heater hose mod it for now and sell the springs. Decisions, decisions...thanks for the info.

[JoeliusZ28]

My car is lowered 3/4" in the rear without an adjustable panhard bar and the rear is centered perfectly.

Also, imo the heater hose mod is the hack way to lower a car. Its good for a "test run" of the ride height but if i was lowering my car i would cut the springs so i could keep the isolators which do have a tangible NVH function.

[landstuhltaylor]

My car is lowered 3/4" in the rear without an adjustable panhard bar and the rear is centered perfectly.

Also, imo the heater hose mod is the hack way to lower a car. Its good for a "test run" of the ride height but if i was lowering my car i would cut the springs so i could keep the isolators which do have a tangible NVH function.

If you cut the spring you will be changing the rate. I'm thinking about doing the hose mod for some poor mans corner balancing.

Another vote for it will be fine on stock tires. FWIW I went from being lowered 1.8" to 1.2" and never bothered to check the axle. Even with the 315s I didn't have rubbing issues after the change, I just had to grind the ears off the bumpstops. You may end up with some wheel hop but it's not that big a deal and any old LCA will fix that.

[zeeman]

What is this mod you speak of? I tried a search but got nothing. what are we talking about here, Ive seen lots of references but cant find a full explaination? anyone got a link or sumthing?

[mcalus]

There are thick rubber isolators under your rear springs. To my knowledge it keeps them from banging around metal on metal. Guys remove the isolators and use a rubber heater hose and wrap it around the bottom of the spring where it sits on the rear perch.

Search on ls1tech.

[landstuhltaylor]

The insulator is in the top of the spring on the body side.

[birdie2000]

The insulator is more of a hard plastic too, not rubber from what I remember. I'm not convinced they do that much in terms of NVH, I would suspect that it's more to evenly distribute the load of the spring over the body surface it touches.

While I agree with Joel that it is not the ideal way to do this, I'm also not a fan of cutting the stock spring when ride quality is a factor. I did the heater hose mod on mine and it gave the perfect amount of drop and I have not noticed any ill effects (and I'm very picky when it comes to NVH).

[zeeman]

Ah, thanks for esplaining.

[OVRKILL]

Heater hose = fail

Reduced isolator = win

[JoeliusZ28]

Yes, cutting springs does change the rate however two thoughts on that:

1) if you are lowering the car you probably should have a higher spring rate to avoid bottoming out (compensating for the reduced travel)
2) I've ridden in cars with stock cut springs... I definitely wouldnt describe it as a harsh change. Noticeable yes, but compared to my 500lb BMRs it will ride like a caddilac.

[1BADAIR]

Yes, cutting springs does change the rate however two thoughts on that:

1) if you are lowering the car you probably should have a higher spring rate to avoid bottoming out (compensating for the reduced travel)
2) I've ridden in cars with stock cut springs... I definitely wouldnt describe it as a harsh change. Noticeable yes, but compared to my 500lb BMRs it will ride like a caddilac.

which bmr's? i thought bmr was progressive. I used the lt1 pro kit for higher rates on my car and the ls kit is linear like factory

[JoeliusZ28]

I was talking about my front springs being 500 lb. You are correct, rear BMR springs are progressive.