I know a few people on here have used the BMR/UMI Torque Arm Relocation Brackets. What setting did you use on the IC adjustment on the crossmember? Supposedly one of them is stock height, I have no idea which one. I'm sure the UMI is slightly different in adjustment but it would still be helpful to know if I should start at the top, the bottom, or in the middle. T56 car for what it's worth.
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Adjusting BMR Torque Arm Relocation Bracket on 4th gen
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Post Whore
- August 16th, 2007
- 2881
- Jim
- 2002 Camaro Z28, 1994 Firebird Formula
- Traverse City, MI
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Post Whore
- August 16th, 2007
- 2881
- Jim
- 2002 Camaro Z28, 1994 Firebird Formula
- Traverse City, MI
- Send PM
Originally posted by c0ncEpT View PostIs this in a racing application?Cool, 3rd from the top is actually where I installed it on a whim. It looked about right going by memory for stock.Originally posted by 1BADAIR View Poststock is the 3rd down i think
it depends on alot of things. tires, ride height, lca angle, hp, shocks.
i would try the 3rd or 4th set
275/40/17 drag radials, T56, lowered ~1.5" in front, ~0.5" in back. LCAs are angled down towards rear end (can find angle if needed), I'm guessing around 430-460rwhp N/A, rear shocks are Koni yellows on full soft IIRC (or close to it).
Primarily street car that still handles well and drives smooth, but I want it to have a fighting chance at getting traction on the street. It will get taken to the strip once or twice a year but I'm not expecting to cut 1.4 60's with it either.Last edited by birdie2000; September 11th, 2012, 07:16 AM.
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Post Whore
- August 16th, 2007
- 2881
- Jim
- 2002 Camaro Z28, 1994 Firebird Formula
- Traverse City, MI
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Exhaust isn't made up yet, but the lower settings look like they would place the torque arm right in the way where it would be impossible to tuck a Y-pipe up.
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Post Whore
- August 16th, 2007
- 2881
- Jim
- 2002 Camaro Z28, 1994 Firebird Formula
- Traverse City, MI
- Send PM
How does this translate into performance numbers? What advantage do you get by keeping them planted longer vs. hitting hard but giving up plant? Especially concerned with what this changes in the feel of the car on the street.Originally posted by c0ncEpT View PostWhat he said ^. The higher you go the harder it hits the tires. Going lower will hit the tires softer but keep them planted longer.
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Its seems like hitting hard would be the way to go if you have sticky tires. If you don't then the other way would probably be better.sigpic
355 LT1 M6. 232/240 LE cam. 21* Trick Flow heads. Fully ported intake. 58mm TPIS tb. 42# SVO Injectors. LS7 Lifters. Moser 9" TrueTrac w/ 4.22 gears. True Duals. UMI Suspension. LS1 brake swap. Dr. Phil tuned 400ish rwhp. Money Pit.
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Not necessarily. On an auto car you may need to hit them harder, the clutch will hit them plenty hard with a short torque arm.Originally posted by ryanwarby01 View PostIts seems like hitting hard would be the way to go if you have sticky tires. If you don't then the other way would probably be better.
Set the Koni's on full tight - they probably still won't be tight enough to control the hit, but it's worth a try.2000 Formula
fixed slow junk
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You will probably have to play with it. The higher I set mine the worse my traction problem became. This was with new DR, dropped it to the lowest setting and it hooks hard! It even hooks pretty decent on the street now
sigpicJust a slow 400 plus RWHP LT1.....428/370 NA
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Post Whore
- August 16th, 2007
- 2881
- Jim
- 2002 Camaro Z28, 1994 Firebird Formula
- Traverse City, MI
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Long torque arm, hence the relocation bracket.Originally posted by Nocooler View PostNot necessarily. On an auto car you may need to hit them harder, the clutch will hit them plenty hard with a short torque arm.
Set the Koni's on full tight - they probably still won't be tight enough to control the hit, but it's worth a try.
I still don't doubt the manual will hit it pretty hard regardless.
Konis on full tight rides like absolute shit, been there done that. I'm looking for a balance of driver with a prayer for traction. I'll consider full tight if I ever take it to the track.
FASHOOTER: Did you have any trouble with exhaust clearance on the lowest setting?Last edited by birdie2000; September 11th, 2012, 09:04 PM.
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It might ride like crap but they'll need to be tight to hook...if not it'll just unload.Originally posted by birdie2000 View PostLong torque arm, hence the relocation bracket.
I still don't doubt the manual will hit it pretty hard regardless.
Konis on full tight rides like absolute shit, been there done that. I'm looking for a balance of driver with a prayer for traction. I'll consider full tight if I ever take it to the track.
FASHOOTER: Did you have any trouble with exhaust clearance on the lowest setting?2000 Formula
fixed slow junk
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Post Whore
- August 16th, 2007
- 2881
- Jim
- 2002 Camaro Z28, 1994 Firebird Formula
- Traverse City, MI
- Send PM
You guys who have adjusted the IC setting on this thing, how did you do it once everything was on the car? I unbolted the clamshell and as soon as the last bolt on top was loosened the thing shot up to the top and won't come down for the life of me. I've tried jacking the rear end in various ways to try and angle it down to no avail. Do I need to take the torque arm off of the rear and deal with that whole process?
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