What lower control arms are better ?

[ModernMuscleHead]

Hey guys. I'm about to start doing some stuff to the rear of my 97 and was wondering if you guys knew what lower control arms are better, the boxed ones, or the tubular ones ? I've seen both kinds and wondered which ones work best. I'm going to put gears in my car at the same time along with a girdle. I'm thinking 3.90 gears ( its an M6 car ). Someone said these are not that strong. I'm wondering are any gears really that strong in the 7.5 ? if there is one that is a better stronger gear due to the teeth count what is it ? I'm flexible on my gear selection if there is one that has better strength. Lastly does anyone recommend doing the torque arm and Pan hard at the same time, or can I get by with the gear and lower control arms for now ? How much of a difference will doing the other stuff make ? Thanks for any advice. I want to do this in the next week or so, so I'm going to start accumulating parts.

[my95z28]

If you are looking to get some better traction of the line, Lower Control Arms and LCA Relocation brackets are where you want to start. I have UMI Tubular LCAs and Weld-in relocation brackets I can sell if you are interested.

I went with the tubular because they are a lot less bulky, and aren't as visible in my opinion. There are large debates on which one is better, with no real defined answer, its mostly just whichever one you go with.

I'll have to try and figure out what the pinion tooth count is on the 3.90 gears. The only ones that I know are that 3.73 have 9 teeth, and 4.10 have 10, and 4.10 are noticeably weaker.

[JoeliusZ28]

boxed vs tubular isnt really much of a difference. I prefer the look of tubular, and it is stronger in most cases as well as lighter.

However one thing to keep in mind is that aftermarket LCAs do not flex. When one side of the supension compresses, the suspension is depending on the [stock] LCA to flex because there is no other give. I highly recommend using stock bushings intead of poly ones to offer some give, because otherwise you are litterally bending your axle mounts on the fly if you twist the suspension too much.

edit: (I actually have an idea for modifying my tubular LCAs to allow some flex... involves some clearancing/fabbing of the sleeves at the end. I might try it this summer.)

LCAs will make your car feel more solid and could help with wheel hop because of that but its not going to help traction. Relocation brackets, which change the angle of the LCA and thus the angle that forces are applied, is where the traction benefits are. However keep in mind, that more bite = more likely to pop a ring/pinion. The stock LCA is angled somewhat up from the chasis, so that when a surge of power runs through the driveline it compresses, and thus allows the tires a chance to break free and forgive. Relocation brackets will eliminate that - good for traction, bad for 10 bolts.

kyle 3.90 is 39 and 10 (39/10 = 3.9)

[csmith4153]

kyle 3.90 is 39 and 10 (39/10 = 3.9)

Motive 3.90 = 43-11 teeth

[csmith4153]

Hey guys. I'm about to start doing some stuff to the rear of my 97 and was wondering if you guys knew what lower control arms are better, the boxed ones, or the tubular ones ? I've seen both kinds and wondered which ones work best. I'm going to put gears in my car at the same time along with a girdle. I'm thinking 3.90 gears ( its an M6 car ). Someone said these are not that strong. I'm wondering are any gears really that strong in the 7.5 ? if there is one that is a better stronger gear due to the teeth count what is it ? I'm flexible on my gear selection if there is one that has better strength. Lastly does anyone recommend doing the torque arm and Pan hard at the same time, or can I get by with the gear and lower control arms for now ? How much of a difference will doing the other stuff make ? Thanks for any advice. I want to do this in the next week or so, so I'm going to start accumulating parts.

My recomendation would be a single adjustable panhard / lower control arm kit. It will have bushings on the body side and rod ends on the rear-end side. Also some reloction brackets, either bolt-in or weld-in, thats a personal choice. I'm running bolt-in in my 99 SS. A adjustable torque arm would also be a good ideal, you can adjust your pinion angle. But you could hold up till you have more funds.

[JoeliusZ28]

Motive 3.90 = 43-11 teeth

well dang i stand corrected.

[PWND3r]

I have an adjustable panhard and torque arm. Thats it, beside my rear end. I have stock suspension, etc.. I have no wheel hop and no issues, besides traction. I'm trying to get the car to squat just right with the stock suspension. Your pinion angle has a lot to do with it.

I'd do the torque arm and panhard first.

[DETROITMUSCLE]

I have an adjustable panhard and torque arm. Thats it, beside my rear end. I have stock suspension, etc.. I have no wheel hop and no issues, besides traction. I'm trying to get the car to squat just right with the stock suspension. Your pinion angle has a lot to do with it.

I'd do the torque arm and panhard first.

Maybe that is your traction problem, ideally you never want the car to squat, a car that launches optimally and dead hooks will actually slightly lift the rear end. Also getting back to the original question either one will be a vast improvement over stock but most adjustable LCAs are tubular, the main purpose is to center the rear tires (front to back) because if one is more forward that the other the car will pull to the rear most side, the relocation brackets will improve the wight transfer of the car to the rear better and allow it to get a bit more bite.

[PWND3r]

We're putting it on a hoist when it's fixed to figure out the angles, and what needs to be changed.

[Phantom409]

I have UMI Single adjustable Tubular and I'm very happy with them.

If I had to do over I would go with the Double Adjustable.

If you are going to race this car I wouldn't go bigger than 3.73 in the stock rear with an M-6.