Bolt in vs. Weld in subframe connectors?

[sunSSet]

Does anyone have any experiences with either bolt in or weld in subframe connectors? Which is the better way to go all things considered? I've been leaning towards bolt in based on ease of installation. Any ideas on what it might cost to have weld ins installed?
Let me know your thoughts on this one.

Thanks,

[1bad83ta]

bolt in are crap. Get weld in. If you want me and my brother might be able to do it for a price. What brand are you thinking of?

[wezeles]

nothing wrong with bolt in as long as you weld them when your done...lol makes it really easy if your doing it by yourself... get a set of bolt ins then once there up go over them with the welder...

[1bad83ta]

lol. I don't like drilling holes in the car.

[sunSSet]

Thanks for the input guys. It sounds like weld-in is the way to go.

[JoeliusZ28]

ive got weld-ins, wouldnt have it any other way.

[DETROITMUSCLE]

Where did you guys get your weld-ins installed and how much did it run ya? I have a set sitting here but I need a tall tranny jack or something similar to install them on my lift.

[Yoeasy69]

ok..

boltins are shit... they looks stupid and are worthless.. when you want a roll cage other then for looks, it is to protect your life.. do you honestly think that the little 3/8's bolt that they give you, if they give you.. is worth your life?

when i made the cage for my ranger, it was a custom job that i spent a whole 250-300 bucks on, this was a full cage from front to back, with 4 driver side door bars and a 3/8's inch thick steel plate for the outside of the bars.. took me about 3 days to bend and weld.. and it was what i wanted it to look like.. not some bars in places i didn't want just because it was what came with the package. i would trust my life, my fiances life, and your life in that cage without hesitation. bolt on's are weak, and when you roll over it puts alot of stress on your whole subframe as well as the cage.. a welded in cage will also help you stiffen up your car, depending on how many points you go.

if your just going for looks, then a 4 or 8 point would be suffecient.. but def go with weld in..

the degree of difficulty on installation depends on how good of a welder you are.. just because they connect differently doesn't mean they are easier to go into place.. its still gonna be the same bends and length.

but i def tell you.. weld in is better bang for your buck, and i hope you never have a situation whenre you roll, but if you do, you want to feel safe.. not just look like it.

[DETROITMUSCLE]

very good points there, can I pay you to build me a roll cage when the time comes?

[Yoeasy69]

well.. the thing is, i used to have a team mate in racing.. and sold him things like a welder.. and a tubing bender and my torches.. when i went to having everything done by sponsers.. i no longer needed them, and some $$ would be helpful in buying a new car.. (t/a)

well long story short.. he never paid, and welder,bender, and torches ect.. all went MIA. im a little out of practice.. so if you have a welder and a bender.. along with a chop saw with a metal blade.. id be happy to do it.. or just a kit cage and a welder.. but i would need a little time to relearn myself to weld. cause its been a year or better.

umm a case of beer and a couple packs of cigs would work.. along with a place to do such things.

[DETROITMUSCLE]

Yeah I got a welder here at the shop, but I don't think I'll be cutting times that require a cage for a little while so I should be ok, just looking ahead.

[Yoeasy69]

just remember how much goes into putting one of these in...

entire interior has to come out. dash and all..

whenever you build a circle track car.. you cut the roof off the car.. beings how im sure like myself you don't want to do that.. the back hatch would have to come off so that way we could weld the upper part of the back hoop..

if you want a front hoop then you would need the windsheild to come out.

just some food for thought.

if you want a price.. measure where you would want the bars.. add about 10 foot and then go price some tubing. youll need 1 3/4 or 1 5/8 depending on what you like. at like a .134 wall thickness.

if it is a while down the road.. my shop will be opend up so all you would need to do is get the material, strip the car and bring it to me.. if you want me to strip it, i will have to charge.. but im sure your like me.. only i like to be the one doing things like that..

Jegs has cage kits in their mag, priced at
4 pt - 129.99
8 pt - 149.99
10 pt - 219.99
12 pt - 259.99

[Yoeasy69]

wow do i feel worthless.. i just re-read the first post, and realized he had asked for subframe connectors and not cage...

i apologize, however there is some useful info in there for people looking at cages.. *cough*john*cough*

[DETROITMUSCLE]

Yeah I was gonna say something but I'm tryin to get a good deal on a cage lol, I don't think I'll have to pull the dash for an 8 point. I know wolfe and some other companies make them for our cars and they only require minimal removal but that comes at a price I guess.

[Yoeasy69]

well an 8 point is tricky, because you have the two door bars that run down the sides of the cars and into the footbox.. you could do it without removing the dash, but in my experince, best to take the couple extra hours and take the dash out so you have room to work.. instead of getting pissed and throwing a welding helmet across the shop....