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The Michigan FBody Association is a centralized website for FBody enthusiasts to discuss what's going on in the Michigan area. MiFbody.com was created to allow for an easy one-stop place to find out what's going on in Michigan as far as FBody events, to find out what clubs are available in your immediate area, and for an easy place to post classifieds for items you want to sell! Our goal was to create a more close-knit community of FBody enthusiasts in the state of Michigan, and to bring Camaro and Firebird enthusiasts alike together for some amazing FBody events!
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Who out there has a roll cage? What type? 6, 8 or 10 pt? Straight door bars or bent? Does it get in the way of pedals/seats etc. How do you like it? Would you do anything different if you put another one in another car? Mild steel or Moly?
Kind of 3rd/4th gen specific since I have a 3rd gen, but thoughts and experience is always helpful!
I have a full custom 10 point Moly cage cetified to 8.50,in my 3rd gen. I would recumend on going with a full out custom cage. Than you can build it how you want It.......
Well my motor/drivetrain are more or less done so I'm looking at bottom 11's MAYBE high 10's if everything gets along and plays nice. I thought you could use thinner tubing for 10pt cages so it was better to go 10pt from the start. But if I only need a 6pt to meet NHRA rules and regs, it would save some coin and be less intrusive to put in.
i have a 10 point cage in the syclone, it was already installed when i bought it. straight door bars, i hate them.... its a huge pita to get in and out of.... and i dont particularly like how it was installed. dash has to be cut up, missing interior pieces, etc. i would definetly change some things if i were to put one in.
i don't have one, i'll be going with a 10 point chromoly unit when i get arond to it. i gotta get the car done before i do the cage though, it's not on the top of the priority list....
That looks good. Only thing I would change is to ditch the bar by the foot well. Would make it much easier to get in/out.
Frequently Asked NHRA Tech Questions
Before sending an e-mail to the NHRA Technical Department, please read the following. If your question is not answered, you may send e-mail to tech@nhra.com
When do I need a roll bar or roll cage, and what should it look like? A roll bar is required in any convertible running 13.49 seconds or quicker in the quarter mile, and in other cars beginning at 11.49. The roll bar is accepted in vehicles running as quick as 10.00 second e.t., provided the stock firewall and floorboard is intact, other than for installation of wheel tubs. The rollbar must be constructed of minimum 1 ¾ inch o.d. x .118 inch wall mild steel tubing, or 1 ¾ x .083 chrome moly tubing, and must conform to the following diagram:
If the floor and/or firewall has been modified, then a full roll cage is required beginning at a 10.99 e.t. A full roll cage is required in any vehicle running 9.99 seconds or quicker, and any vehicle running 135 mph or faster (regardless of e.t.). The roll cage must be constructed of minimum 1 5/8 o.d.x .118 mild steel tubing, or 1 5/8 x .083 chrome moly tubing, and must conform to the following diagram: The roll cage of any vehicle running 9.99 or quicker, or 135 mph or faster, must also be certified by NHRA every 3 years, and have a serialized sticker affixed prior to participation. How, where and when do I get a roll cage certified? Contact your Division Office (click here for contact info) and tell them you need a chassis certified. They will direct you to the NHRA Chassis Inspector in your area. Chassis certifications are also performed at all National and Divisional events, for participants. Due to busy event schedules, certifications are not always available at events for non-participants. Contact the Division office (for Division events) or the National Technical Department in Glendora (for national events) ahead of time to see if arrangements can be made. Three year certification stickers (for vehicles running 7.50 seconds and slower) are $75. If you arrange for a chassis inspector to come to your location, you will be responsible for any travel expenses.
that one posted isn't legal. The door bars are not right. My door bars are extra low cause I drive it some much but I haven't had a problem with tech yet. If they do I will just have stenod put swingouts in it.
6 point is only considered a roll bar. a 10 pt cage isn't need til 9.99 or 135mph
If I ever get to the point of needed a cage in my Trans Am I'm just going with a 6pt. Mostly for looks, ease of getting in/out of the car, and it's better then nothing. Honestly I'll probably do it before I need a cage because I'd much rather only tear the interior out once for stereo/cage/other
1999 Pontiac Trans Am- LS1 - M6 - ITSSLOW - 12.998@109.59 - SOLD
1994 Chevrolet Camaro - 3.4L - M5 - ITSSLWR - 16.558@85.38 2003 Chevrolet Blazer
that one posted isn't legal. The door bars are not right. My door bars are extra low cause I drive it some much but I haven't had a problem with tech yet. If they do I will just have stenod put swingouts in it.
6 point is only considered a roll bar. a 10 pt cage isn't need til 9.99 or 135mph
Did Stenod tell you the door bars might not make it through tech or did you just ask for them built that way?
i have a 10 point cage in the syclone, it was already installed when i bought it. straight door bars, i hate them.... its a huge pita to get in and out of.... and i dont particularly like how it was installed. dash has to be cut up, missing interior pieces, etc. i would definetly change some things if i were to put one in.
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