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  • M6 Transmission Fluid Change

    Disclaimer: This article is being re-hosted on Michigan FBody Association. The site does not claim ownership of the articles in this section if this disclaimer is included. If you are the original owner of this article and wish for it to be removed, simply use the "Contact Us" link at the very bottom right corner of the web page and we will promptly remove the article.

    M6 TRANSMISSION OIL CHANGE
    For this project, you'll need the following:
    • 4 quarts of Dexron III Automatic Transmission Fluid. Yep, that's no typo... you use ATF in your M6! Again, I prefer the Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF. Cost - $21.16
    • High Temperature RTV Silicone - This is optional. Cost - $4.23
    • Tools & Supplies - 3/8" ratchet, drain container for oil, rags.
    • Total cost for this project - $25.39 for me but it could be done for less than $10 using non synthetic ATF.

    1. Drain the oil. This is an easy project because GM actually gave us a drain plug this time! The A4 guys aren't so lucky! To remove the drain plug, use your 3/8" ratchet. Be prepared for a large GUSH of oil. This oil isn't too thick and the drain hole is quite large. The oil will shoot out the drain hole horizontally about one foot! You've been warned
    2. Re-install the drain plug. Again, like the above rear differential fluid change, I used RTV silicone to ensure no leakage. If you wish to torque this one to spec, it's 20 ft-lbs. But, like the others I did, I only snugged mine up.
    3. Remove the fill plug. Like the drain plug, this will require a 3/8" ratchet.
    4. Fill with transmission fluid. Note: This picture is used only for illustration of a good fill mechanism Also, ensure your car is mostly level while filing. Since you are filling to "overflow" (see below) the angle of the car will determine exactly how much fluid you are able to get in there. If you are not able to get your car perfectly level, using the same amount of fluid as I did (see below again) will ensure you don't have too much or too little oil in your transmission.
    Once again, the GM engineers did a number on us by making it a slight pain to fill the M6 transmission. Notice how the rear differential fluid change section came before this one? I did that for a reason I used the Mobil 1 ATF and if you haven't noticed, this oil has a larger than normal cap. For this reason, I couldn't just easily screw on the cap and hose pictured to the right. What I did was poured my ATF fluid into one of the empty rear gear lube bottles. A little residual gear lube won't hurt anything here in case you're worried about that. If you're not doing all these at the same time like I did and don't have a gear lube bottle to use, you can try an empty shampoo bottle or something that can be squeezed to add the oil.
    Squeeze your first 3 quarts of ATF into the tranny. This works the same way as the rear differential lube change... you fill until oil runs out the fill hole. Because of this, get your drain pan in place prior to adding the 4th quart. When you get about 1/2 of this last quart in, slow down. I was able to get all but the last 300ml of oil from the 4th quart in.
    5. Once you have a small amount of oil running out the fill hole, place a small dab of RTV (like above) on the fill plug and install it. Again, if you wish to torque it using a torque wrench, the correct value is 20 ft-lbs. And again, I didn't torque mine... just snugged it up!
    That's it! Start it up and drive around for a few minutes then check to ensure no leaks!






    Disclaimer: This article is being re-hosted on Michigan FBody Association. The site does not claim ownership of the articles in this section if this disclaimer is included. If you are the original owner of this article and wish for it to be removed, simply use the "Contact Us" link at the very bottom right corner of the web page and we will promptly remove the article.
    - Brian Meissen
    Owner, MiFBody.com
    Administrator, LTxTech.com


    1994 Camaro LT1 Transplant - 357ci LT1, cammed, stalled, and driven.
    2022 Camaro LT1 - "Cherry Bomb 2"
    Michigan FBody Meet & Greet Car Show 2022
    June 4th, 2022 - 9am to 3pm!!!
    The HUB Stadium, Auburn Hills, MI

  • #2
    Removing the shifter is an alt method of adding fluid. Leave the fill plug off and once it startes running out your done. Easier imo.
    94 Z28 Vert. A4->M6, Pro 5.0 Shifter/Short stick, Mccleod 7500rpm disc w/ Ram Alum flywheel, 3.42 gears, CAI, XE 224/230 .553/.561 lift w/ 1.65 RR's, LE Stage 3 Heads, 30lb SVO injectors, JetHot LTs, X-pipe Duals, LT4 Knock Module, Personal Tunercat PCM Tune. College, Grad school, and Med School Loans: payment countdown only $272,000 left. 8-O Install pictures

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    • #3
      ^^^^^That's how I did mine
      Craig
      Semi Retired Street Racer
      2012 Lava Red Mustang GT 5.0 MT82
      GONE BUT NOT FORGOTEN
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      NBM `98 Formula M6 HdTp

      1 of 1 Build Date 3/12/98

      "Political correctness is a doctrine, fostered by a delusional, illogical, liberal minority, and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end."

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      - Smokey Yunick

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      • #4
        liquid teflon works much better than RTV for sealing the plugs

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        • #5
          Didn't think about removing the shifter, thats a very good idea. Way to improve on the article guys!

          2011 Mustang GT
          20" Satin Black AMRs with 305/35 & 275/35 MT Street Radials, Saleen Grille, CS Lower Valance, Roush Axleback, GT500 Spoiler, resonator delete

          In Progress: Brembo 6-piston brake upgrade


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