How to Change your Oil

[meissen]

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I use Mobil 1 synthetic 10W-30 weight oil. I've heard nothing but good about this oil and it's readily available at the local autoparts store. For the filter, I'll use the the Mobil 1 filter when AutoZone runs a special on them, but since I change my oil every 3,000 to 4,000 miles, I don't see the need to spend $10 on the filter and the regular AutoZone filter (D432) has always worked well for me.

First off, you'll notice in the following pictures that I'm doing all this using a lift... my buddy allows me to use his lift when it's not booked for his shop work If you're not so lucky, a set of ramps for about $20 from Wal-Mart will work. In some cases, you may need to also go to the local lumber yard and buy a few feet of 2" x 10" or or 2" x 12". Depending on the type of ramp you get, it may or may not be suited for the low F-Body. I've heard Rhino ramps work well but don't have a set myself. I use a regular set of ramps and a couple 2" x 10" or a jack and jack stands when I don't have access to the lift.

For this project, you'll need the following:

• 5 quarts of engine oil. Cost for the good stuff - $22.74
• 1 oil filter. ~$10 for the Mobil 1 filter or $3 for a regular filter (AutoZone D432).
• Tools & Supplies - 15mm wrench or rachet & 15mm socket, awl (optional), filter wrench, rags, drain container for used oil.
• Total cost for this project - ~$25 for me but can be done for under $10 using non synthetic oil

1. Position your drain pan under the drain plug. Using a 15mm wrench or socket, slowly remove the drain plug. Note: It is best to do all of these fluid changes listed on this page after you've been driving the car for a period of time. This allows the oils to come up to temperature and will allow them to drain more quickly. Also note that this will mean the oil will be warm and maybe even HOT so be careful! Also, I've seen some drain plugs with washers and some without. Just be aware of this and take note before you completely remove the plug. These are easily lost if you forget about them and leave them in your used oil!

2. With the engine oil draining out the plug, you can now either just remove the oil filter or punch a hole in your filter, drain it, then remove it. In the picture to the right, you'll see that I punched a hole in the filter. Sometimes I do this and sometimes I don't... it really doesn't matter but the mess is a little less if you punch a small hole into it with an awl. The only thing with this is that if you punch a hole in your filter, you best be sure you can get it off! Most of the time, you won't be able to remove the filter with your bare hands. You'll need some type of tool to do this. There are a couple different kinds that work well. One is a cup type tool that fits on a socket wrench and "grasps" the filter so you can turn it. The other is a tool that has a metal band. Depending on which way you place this tool on the filter will determine if you tighten or loosen the filter. With the Mobil 1 filter pictured above, the band clamp type tool works much better since this filter has no ridges for the other type tool to "grab."

3. Once all the oil has drained, reinstall the drain plug. Be sure to wipe off any dirt/debris that may be on the threads. Tighten the drain plug so it is snug. The "by the book" torque spec is 15 ft-lbs but not even I am anal enough to torque my drain plug using a torque wrench

4. Get ready to reinstall the filter. First of all, check to make sure that the old gasket isn't still seated up on the engine! This can cause an oil leak at the filter if you install your filter and gasket on top of the old gasket. Although it doesn't happen often, I've seen the old gasket stick up there so it's always best to check up there and on the old filter to ensure the gasket came down with the filter. Now take a little bit of the engine oil and, with your finger, wet the new filter's gasket. This is the black ring on top of the filter in the picture to the right. Now take a quart of your oil and fill the filter prior to screwing it on. While the oil pump is filling the filter, it's not sending oil to the engine. Filling the filter first will help in your car building up pressure quicker after the initial start. I've done many oil changes in my days and never used to do this. Does it really help a lot? Who knows... Does it hurt? NOPE! So, might as well do it!

5. Screw your filter back on. It should go on easily until the gasket meets the surface. There will most likely be tightening instructions on your filter. I normally just hand tighten my filters and do not use a wrench. I've never had any leaks doing this. But, if my hands are oily, I'll snug up the filter with a wrench "just to make sure." These filters don't have to be super tight and over tightening them just makes them more difficult to remove.

You're now ready to fill her back up! I use an even 5 quarts. If you use an oversized filter, you'll need a bit more. The oil fill is located on the passenger side valve cover. Sometimes the plastic tube that connects to the valve cover will become loose or might even break. Don't worry because the cap that is on this tube will screw directly into the valve cover and take the place of the filler tube. You can try to be the Mr. Quaker State Man and dump the quart of oil directly into the valve cover, but I myself am not quite that good so I use a funnel

You're all set now! Just remember to do a quick check for leaks after you start it.




Disclaimer: This article is being re-hosted on Michigan FBody Association. The site does not claim ownership of the articles in this section if this disclaimer is included. If you are the original owner of this article and wish for it to be removed, simply use the "Contact Us" link at the very bottom right corner of the web page and we will promptly remove the article.