Project Childhood.

[Fox Slaughter]

Flip it over and see if it's square bore or spread bore. You can post the casting number and I can look it up and tell you what is it.

[Fox Slaughter]

Alright

UPDATE:

Got the front driver side pads changed. Rotor wasn't horrible and I put cheap pads, cause I want it drivable. So for now it will work.
Surprisingly didn't break anything and bolts came out with minimal effort.

Put a power brake bleeder on and well found out the master cylinder needs to be replaced. Kinda already figured because it was sweating like a mofo anyway.

So do passenger pads, get master cylinder, check back drums, bleed brake system, battery, and figure out whats up with the lights in the rear and it will be drivable.

[Fox Slaughter]

UPDATE:

I know everyone loves pictures but I am to lazy right now.

Big thanks to [MENTION=2551]TylerT/AZ28[/MENTION] for helping me today.
Plan was just to bleed the front brakes, well after we got nothing out of the driver bleeder, popped the piston out found the hole was clogged.
So new caliber on driverside and front brakes bled.

Back brakes need to be done.

[TylerT/AZ28]

Anytime dude!

[Fox Slaughter]

jeepthing.jpg


Its a jeep thing bro!

[Fox Slaughter]

For the future I am trying to decide what I want to do as far as diffs.
Do I want to put a Eaton E Locker up front and a LSD in the rear?
Or just run a Detroit Locker in the rear?

Far as I know people say Lockers are bad in the snow cause they will suddenly kick in.

How bad a lockers on the road because I have no concerns about that its not like I am going to rally this truck around on the streets.
Will drive it up north though. Probably tow trailers with it.

Or should I just man up and put E lockers in front and rear?

I have NP203 which is full time 4wd. So no auto locker up front.

[hoogiesngrinderz]

Mine had the NP203 as well. I wasn't sure what setup I wanted to run with that t-case. I'm curious what works best.

I put a gov-loc in the rear of my '00 Jimmy, 2wd is a squirrely mess in the snow but I like it much better than open diff. Going somewhere is better than nowhere!

[Fox Slaughter]

I'd leaning towards a Detroit Locker in the rear and an Eaton E locker in the front.

From my understanding the Detroit Locker can get scary if you mash the gas in the snow around turns.
They say it will increase tire wear and stuff but this isn't going to be a DD.
More or less when I wanna go up north or go have offroad fun or need to tow something.

Then with E Locker off it acts like an open diff. So if the NP203 is in Hi or Lo it will most likely send power to the front if there is a locker in the rear, then if you put it in Loc you'll get equal power front and rear.

[TylerT/AZ28]

I like my trutrac alot in the yukon.

[Fox Slaughter]

I have a truetrac in the Camaro.

[JoeliusZ28]

So by full time transfer case does that mean it can be used full time (dry pavement) as per the jeep full time / part time definition of things?

Or does it mean the tcase is always engaged and to use 4wd you have to jump out of the truck and manually lock the hubs?

Also have you considered just swapping to 3/4 or 1 ton running gear?

[TylerT/AZ28]

Locker on the road sucks kinda though if you want to try the yukons your more than welcome to

[JoeliusZ28]

The G80 in my Z71 worked great id say it was about "80%" in terms of it functioning how i would want/expect it to. Which is pretty good for not being in direct control of it.

[TylerT/AZ28]

Why not upgrade to a fullfloat?

[Fox Slaughter]

Because I don't plan on doing hardcore offroading.

The NP203 is a full time case with automatic front hubs.
There is a differential in the t case that when its in Hi or Lo acts just like a open diff, it sends power to front and back but if one starts to slip it automatically sends more power to it, as with the nature of open diffs.
When you put it in Hi Loc or Lo Loc it now locks the diff in the t case and sends 50/50 power.
So its always in 4wd all the time and has automatic hubs which are engaged all the time.
After 76 they switched to a NP205 which is a part time case.
You can convert the NP203 to part time.
A popular thing is to take the NP203 range selector and mate it to the NP205 and you can control the front and rear axles independently plus get 4:1 low ratio.

You could have
Hi, axles in lo/lo.
Hi, axles in lo/neutral
Hi, axles in neutral/low
Hi, axles in hi/hi
Hi axles in neutral/hi
Hi axles in hi/neutral
then repeat in low range.
So you could have 12 different settings to put your truck in.

You need a triple sticks for that.
Never put one axle in hi and the other in low.

From my understanding a locker is fine if you don't mash the throttle through a turn which why would you want to in a vehicle like this?

For my needs the Dana 44 and Corporate 12 should be just fine.
If anything I would upgrade the shafts to chromoly and in the front run Spicer 760 U joints.

I only plan on max 35"s but probably am going to go with 33"s because on 35"s and bigger you have to cut the fenders and I don't wanna do that.