Dusk (2000 Trans AM) build thread

[Akodo]

I thought on my car, when you turn the headlight switch from "off" to "parking lights", the interior lights, dash, tail lamps, & foglamps come on without the headlights raising up . . . is this not the case on your car?

If you go the other way, from "headlights" to "parking lights", then the lights turn off but stay up . . . no?

Thats the way I THOUGHT it was supposed to be, but in my car, when you turn on the parking lights the headlights go up, they just don't come on. I just need to figure out which wire is powering them and switch it up to the next leg of the switch. I could do it the trial and error method, if I have to.

[birdie2000]

I thought on my car, when you turn the headlight switch from "off" to "parking lights", the interior lights, dash, tail lamps, & foglamps come on without the headlights raising up . . . is this not the case on your car?

If you go the other way, from "headlights" to "parking lights", then the lights turn off but stay up . . . no?

That's the way it's been on every Firebird/Trans-Am I've ever had too. Might want to make sure the switch and wiring are correct.

[Akodo]

That's the way it's been on every Firebird/Trans-Am I've ever had too. Might want to make sure the switch and wiring are correct.

Well, guess I will need to pull the module out and see if it has been monkeyed with. Working my way across the dash from the passenger door. Speaking of which...

new map pocket.jpg
Finished building the new LED chain for the map pocket. I plan to duplicate this design for the foot well lighting as well. I'm running these at a FRACTION of their potential power, so heat will not be an issue. I have noticed that the LED's in the door tend to flicker a bit at idle due to the unstable power the car is producing, so I am designing a 12v switching power supply which will be installed BEFORE the stock dimmer, giving me a stable power source regardless of what the alternator is doing. Should stop the flicker as well as make it easier to balance the LED dimming.
glove box.jpg
Which brings us to the glove box. I'm a sucker for drop in replacements, so I cut apart the old bulb and voila, a self contained drop in replacement. The car is a bit buried right now, so once the snow is gone I will get these in and take some pics. I'm working on setting up a light for the console, a replacement for the PRNDL light, and the footwell light string. Making progress.

[Atrus]

Very cool - I am highly interested in seeing how your ambient lighting turns out.

Also, really interested to see what, if anything, you do for the dimmer. I'm at that point in my swap now. I am hoping to retrofit a PWM setup into the OEM switch, but I am not sure if that'll work with the stock wiring - for instance, if the PWM output has to be on it's own circuit (both + and -) or whether both the input and output grounds can use the vehicle chassis.

[Akodo]

Very cool - I am highly interested in seeing how your ambient lighting turns out.

Also, really interested to see what, if anything, you do for the dimmer. I'm at that point in my swap now. I am hoping to retrofit a PWM setup into the OEM switch, but I am not sure if that'll work with the stock wiring - for instance, if the PWM output has to be on it's own circuit (both + and -) or whether both the input and output grounds can use the vehicle chassis.

I'm not sure if I'm understanding your question. Are you trying to convert ALL of the lighting to PWM, or just some of it? Using the same ground for both SHOULDN'T be a problem, depending on your circuit setup. You may end up with an offset or a ground loop depending on what ground you are using as reference.

[Atrus]

I guess I don't understand your question to my question

Right now I have all of my interior "dash" bulbs swapped over to LEDs - the cluster, HVAC panel, and all switches are now LED. I am using three different variants of LEDs, which I can provide if it'd help. Heck, if you need to see them, I have plenty of extras and I could even mail you one of each of what I am using.

What I'd like to do is have all of the interior LEDS (not the map/courtesy lights, just all of the dash/door panel LEDS - cluster, HVAC panel, switches) dim at the same time, just like they did with they were incandescents.

I've bench tested using a cheap PWM and a 120vac-to-12vdc transformer, and everything dims fairly nicely.

So, I guess I have an open question as to how do I need to hook up this PWM in the vehicle to have it work properly? The PWM has 4 terminals - input power/ground and output power/ground. ASSuming that the OEM dimmer basically would have a power feed, ground, and power out to the dash lighting, how would I hook the PWM up?

Side note, if it's beneficial, I do have access to the online service manuals - so, if you need wiring schematics of my Camaro to answer, let me know. Also, if you need schematics for your project, I'd be happy to help!

[Akodo]

I guess I don't understand your question to my question

Right now I have all of my interior "dash" bulbs swapped over to LEDs - the cluster, HVAC panel, and all switches are now LED. I am using three different variants of LEDs, which I can provide if it'd help. Heck, if you need to see them, I have plenty of extras and I could even mail you one of each of what I am using.

What I'd like to do is have all of the interior LEDS (not the map/courtesy lights, just all of the dash/door panel LEDS - cluster, HVAC panel, switches) dim at the same time, just like they did with they were incandescents.

I've bench tested using a cheap PWM and a 120vac-to-12vdc transformer, and everything dims fairly nicely.

So, I guess I have an open question as to how do I need to hook up this PWM in the vehicle to have it work properly? The PWM has 4 terminals - input power/ground and output power/ground. ASSuming that the OEM dimmer basically would have a power feed, ground, and power out to the dash lighting, how would I hook the PWM up?

Side note, if it's beneficial, I do have access to the online service manuals - so, if you need wiring schematics of my Camaro to answer, let me know. Also, if you need schematics for your project, I'd be happy to help!

Ahh, I see your issue now. So the LED modules you purchased are probably constant current, so just lowering the voltage won't dim them. I see now. In that case, most likely you would need to run power and ground out to the lights using the PWM outputs, otherwise it will probably create a ground loop. Hard to say for sure without seeing the modules themselves. It will take a fair amount of wiring, and tying in the cluster may be a bit tricky, but it should be doable. I'm going the low tech route, replacing the input power with a regulated 12V source, then using the stock dimmer to adjust it down, and building my modules to run at 12 V peak.

[Atrus]

Ahh, I see your issue now. So the LED modules you purchased are probably constant current, so just lowering the voltage won't dim them. I see now. In that case, most likely you would need to run power and ground out to the lights using the PWM outputs, otherwise it will probably create a ground loop. Hard to say for sure without seeing the modules themselves. It will take a fair amount of wiring, and tying in the cluster may be a bit tricky, but it should be doable. I'm going the low tech route, replacing the input power with a regulated 12V source, then using the stock dimmer to adjust it down, and building my modules to run at 12 V peak.

Hmmm - and your setup wouldn't work for me? If it does, that seems MUCH easier!

I am running:
Cluster - HP6's - these DO dim and are non-polarized and I believe on an A/C current
Doors/HVAC - HP3's - I believe these do dim as well, but they are polarized
Switches - NEO3 - these do not dim. Looks like they have a resistor and a diode soldered into the base. Used these because the intensity and color matched the others so well.


Sorry, don't mean to highjack your build thread - I can PM you if you'd prefer. It seems like a much easier solution to feed a clean power source in and use the OE dimmer, if that's possible for me.

[Akodo]

Hmmm - and your setup wouldn't work for me? If it does, that seems MUCH easier!

I am running:
Cluster - HP6's - these DO dim and are non-polarized and I believe on an A/C current
Doors/HVAC - HP3's - I believe these do dim as well, but they are polarized
Switches - NEO3 - these do not dim. Looks like they have a resistor and a diode soldered into the base. Used these because the intensity and color matched the others so well.


Sorry, don't mean to highjack your build thread - I can PM you if you'd prefer. It seems like a much easier solution to feed a clean power source in and use the OE dimmer, if that's possible for me.

No worries. Let me check out the data sheets and I will PM you a response. I'm working on the switching supply now, should have it up and running in a week or two. Just need to do some load testing on the design.

[Atrus]

No worries. Let me check out the data sheets and I will PM you a response. I'm working on the switching supply now, should have it up and running in a week or two. Just need to do some load testing on the design.

Sweet, thanks! I'd appreciate it. Like I said, if you need any diagrams, feel free to ask.

[Akodo]

Finally had a few hours to get some work done. Early spring is really busy for us Dad types.

Pulled out the MAF sensor and cleaned it off. The screen was half covered with debris, and the sensors and throttle body were coated with dirt and oil. Sprayed them down, cleaned them up, put it back together. Now, NO hesitation, NO hitching, the car runs perfectly. Thanks to Nick for help with diagnosing it. Now just need to put the plugs in.
Interior mods are coming along. Built a light engine to replace the ones on the passenger side door. I'm increasing the output voltage on my switcher supply to compensate for the residual resistance in the dimmer, and starting to remove he center console to replace the PRNDL light and install a pocket lamp for the small pocket under the HVAC. Going to pull out the radio and replace it with a touchscreen.
I think I am going to experiment with repairing the headliner. The liner itslef seems to be in good shape, the cloth covering is just falling off. Going to try to get the rest of the interior finished before the meet and greet. Bought a cheap set of seat covers off of EBAY just to cover up the shredded stock ones for the summer, and to see how the seats would look as two tone black and tan.