'00 Convertible M6 SS #1414

[Atrus]

Thanks - I agree, I don't think rasp will be an issue with the Hooker setup. That's what TD's are all about, right?

Thanks for the head's up on the LS6 valley. I really debated it, and think I am going to stick with the LS1 PVC setup with a few modifications....I picked up a stainless steel "y" and will be replacing the OE hose with 3/8" fuel line. I picked up a catch can that I'll also be running - it's a cheap ebay can, but the can itself is decent. The issue is it has no baffling, which I am adding in. I think with those two I should be OK - I didn't seem to have a TON of oil in my intake considering it's got 70k on the clock. Seems the LS6 cover has had mixed results.

Well...now I am thinking about it more again...I may as well give a call to see if I can get one super cheap with my employee discount.

[farmington]

I have the employee number if you need it.

[farmington]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/131562598287...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

[Atrus]

So, thinking ahead guys...cams...I had a few questions. Plan is to have the LS6 Intake, most likely the Hooker Midlength Headers/TD setup, and get an appropriate tune. Again, summer cruiser, no track.

1) I am leaning towards the EPS camshafts...not sure if it's marketing hype, but the (allegedly) more tame lobe design appeals to me. I was thinking the 222/226 would be a good choice - opinions? Would it be worth it to contact them and pay the fee ($25 IIRC?) to have them spec out a cam for my usage and mods?
2) I'll be running stock heads. Any reason I can't just go with an off-the-shelf pushrod length, or would it truly be beneficial to measure first? My understanding is a contributor to the sewing machine noise may be pushrods that are kind of pushing to the outside of the "acceptable" length range.
3) Springs - recommendations? I don't want to be swapping them out frequently. Would dual springs be better, or are the benefits negligible as I am certainly not running anything radical?
4) LSA - yeah, I partially want this to hear that great chop as well. Like I said, though, car is a cruiser. What would a good choice be for driveability and being a stoplight jockey/cruiser?
5) What are all the ancillary items I will need? I am guessing I should replace the oil pump - I can do an LS6 unit...should I get a ported unit? Timing set - are they problematic, should I upgrade gears and chain or just put a new chain on? What else, outside of Cam/Pushrods/Springs will I be needing?

Any other words of wisdom or experiences you'd want to share?

[birdie2000]

I'm new to the LSx game so take my advice with a grain of salt, but I'd check out the AI high mileage grinds for the type of project I've heard you describe your car as. AI has a really good reputation for reliability in the LTx world.

http://www.advancedinduction.com/LSX/AiLSxCamsHR.php

[Lucky SOB]

I'd call Martin at Tick to get his opinion. I'm running a 225/228 .61x"/.59x" 112 LSA cam from them with ported 799s and an LS6 intake through a T56. It drives like stock which is what I wanted. Zero surge with it, even before I had Phil tune it. Ended up at 380hp / 378 ft lbs.

It's worth a free phone call.

If I had to do it again, I would have gone slightly bigger. Maybe the 231/235 cam that they have.

[farmington]

1 I'm running a 224r. nice street cam, 112 cl so it has some chop, very noticeable power gain
2 when I bought my stuff from Texas speed they told me that the 7.400 pushrods would work and they did. It depends on the base circle of the cam if its the same as a factory cam. a cam with "softer" lobes will be less likely to have the sewing machine sound.
3 use the PAC or Compcams 918 beehives. you won't need a double.
4 go with a cam ground on 112 center to hear the chop
5 ls6 pump is fine, that's what I used. My pressure went up about 5psi across the board. LS2 chain and reuse your sprockets. you will need a cam change gasket set and a new harmonic balancer bolt. might need new valve cover gaskets.

[Atrus]

I've got to take some pics and get updates written, but this winter/spring I managed to get the LS6 intake on and redid the PCV system with rubber hose as well as added a catch can.

Additionally, I swapped out the JVC headunit that I had for an Android double din. It's got it's little quirks, but I really do like it - has a ton of functionality. Will add in pics and details of that too. Had to further modify the DD-modified stock bezel a little to get it to fit, and repainted it with SEM Landau black.

I also did go with the Hooker Blackheart True Duals setup. It's all stainless and consists of 1-7/8" primaries on midlength headers, and 2.5" true duals out the back with an X-pipe. Ground clearance is excellent from the pics I have seen, and the sound quality seems to be great without being too loud. From looking over the materials and craftsmanship, I am pleased thus far. Everything looks very well made. The headers were on backorder and kept getting pushed back, but they arrived last week after all the delays.

I managed to get the manifolds unbolted yesterday without issue - everything came apart easily. Now, I have to get the car up on jackstands and get everything removed. Will post up pics as I get into the real meat of it. I'm pumped to get this on and get a tune!

Last update is that the rear end is whining quite a bit. Seems like it happens at 35 mph, and then again between 70 and 80. Noise mostly disappears in between those speeds. Makes no difference if I am on the gas or not, no matter what gear I am in - seems totally speed dependent. I am assuming that means it's a pinion or carrier bearing.

[farmington]

noise could be due to worn trans mount or torque arm mount due to pinion angle change. when I put my aftermarket torque arm on I got a new howl from the rear end turned out to be pinion angle was way off

[JoeliusZ28]

Lets see some pics of that exhaust! to be honest i wouldnt worry about the rear end whine unless it gets worse. Mine has had a slight wine for years im still beating the snot out of it.

[Atrus]

noise could be due to worn trans mount or torque arm mount due to pinion angle change. when I put my aftermarket torque arm on I got a new howl from the rear end turned out to be pinion angle was way off

Good point, thanks for mentioning! I lowered the car fairly significantly, so maybe it is pinion angle. I will definitely check into that!

Lets see some pics of that exhaust! to be honest i wouldnt worry about the rear end whine unless it gets worse. Mine has had a slight wine for years im still beating the snot out of it.

That's good to hear. It is pretty annoying though, when I have the top up and passengers in the car. It'd be great to know it's nothing that'll cause a problem, but it's loud enough to be very irritating.

[Atrus]

So, I got all the OE exhaust components off the car. Unfortunately, I broke the rearmost manifold bolt on the passenger side. I had sprayed it a few times with PB Blaster. It's broken flush with the head. I got a 90* drill adapter and some left hand drill bits and spent some time trying to drill it yesterday to no avail - I've barely made a dent in the bolt.

I was using a small (3/16" IIRC) left hand bit, and it finally caught in the bolt and snapped. I am thinking as a last ditch effort, I am going to use a large LH bit, and will heat the area up with a propane torch....I'll hit it hard with the bit and hope it bites and gets the bolt to back out at least a few threads so I can get some pliers/vice grips on it. Once that's out, I should be golden with moving forward on the install. If I can't get it out, I have another idea to try. I really don't want to pull the head off, nor do I want any exhaust leaks.


I will say that thus far, these midlength headers slip right up into place with no drama. I think each side took me two attempts to get the approach correct and then they just slipped right in. No removing motor mounts, oil filters, starters...anything.

I also noticed that I need to touch up my SFC's as I have scraped them a few times....and while looking at them, I noticed the paint near the driver's side front SFC mount was kind of gooey and could be peeled off like rubber....realized it must be from when I bled the clutch in 2013, and I got brake fluid on the paint. I can see shiny metal now, so while it's up on stands I will remove both SFC's and throw some paint on them, and clean/paint that area on the frame to keep it from corroding.

Lastly, I do think the pinion seal is weeping as the axle looks wet. No drips. While poking around under the car (I am not under it often as it's so low and such a PITA to lift on jack stands), it also made me really start thinking about the TA mount. I know I am not putting down a lot of power, but I am thinking it could be good insurance to remove that thing from the trans mount. Last thing I want to do is crack the trans casing. Seems like good insurance.

[MP81]

Nothing like a little extra work to add to the fun.

Oh wait, that's not fun, nevermind.

[farmington]

If u remove the SFC's, remember you need to have the weight on the wheels (down on the ground or on blocks) when you tighten them back up.
When drilling into steel with a small drill u need lots of rpms. Maybe also use a piece of wood as a lever to put added pressure on the drill.

[Atrus]

Thanks, Don - definitely will have the suspension loaded properly.

So, an update on the broken bolt. I am throwing in the towel. I can't make any progress on drilling it...I had thought about trying to fab up an exhaust clamp that would use two other threaded holes in the head to hold down the end of the manifold - it's the reason for my post in The Pub asking if anyone had a spare head I could borrow to take measurements and mock something up. While searching online, I think I found a solution made by Dorman. I ordered this through Amazon for $28 shipped. Check out Dorman 917-142 Exhaust Manifold to Cylinder Head Repair Clamp. I'll update once it arrives and I get it on.

So, I didn't have much chance to wrench on the car this weekend. I did manage to pop the driver's side header on yesterday. I used copper anti-sieze on the bolts. I used the grade 8.8 that Hooker sent with the headers (stock are 10.9). I fear I may have overtorqued them though. I plan on loosening them all up, pulling the couple I may have overtorqued, and look to see if there's any sign of stretching on the threads. I really don't have to have any more bolts snap off in the cylinder heads! I do miss working at the cold heading supplier that I used to...I used to be able to just walk out to the parts bins and pick up nice hex flanged automotive bolts for free.

Anyway, I'll work on picking away at it over the next few days. Ultimately, the headers slide in easily. This really would have been a non-event installation if it weren't for that damn snapped bolt. Seems like a common issue on the LS engines - lots of reports of this happening on the trucks. Seems the bolts snap the heads off without anyone even touching them in many cases.