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Well we bled the ABS some more today and the pedal feels a little stiffer but still doesn't get as firm as it used to. Just not sure what is up with that.
How does it feel with the car running? Like I said before the only real way to test is to take the car for a test drive.
Having the same issue brian, yet to figure out my issue aswell. Ive been driving mine for a few days now, and the pedal seems to go farther down before the actual braking starts to happen. Havnt bleed the ABS yet though, dont know how.
Yeah my brakes did that for a few months my brakes were so bad the first day, my dad told me to take the car to the car wash and we went, since its been 7 months so anyways come up to a stop light car in front of me it took me at LONG time with the pedal to the floor to stop and i almost hit his bumper scared the hell out of me, And then pressure came back, Its just air in the system you'd be amazed how much can hide in the rear lines.
Yeah, I think we have to bleed the rears some more. The front is pure liquid I'm sure of that. It should have stopping power, just not sure how much. When I start the car, the pedal goes all the way to the floor and it doesn't feel like I have much pressure to apply the break. And the "BRAKE" and "ABS INOP" lights both come on in the gauge cluster.
Last edited by meissen; April 16th, 2009, 07:00 AM.
Yeah, I think we have to bleed the rears some more. The front is pure liquid I'm sure of that. It should have stopping power, just not sure how much. When I start the car, the pedal goes all the way to the floor and it doesn't feel like I have much pressure to apply the break. And the "BRAKE" and "ABS INOP" lights both come on in the gauge cluster.
I know B and everyone anxious to see the car, but the car is not "safe to drive" until brake issue is fixed. To much time and money invested to throw in away on impatience.
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1998 Trans Am Convertible A4 - WS6 hood, WS6 air lid, WS6 rims, drilled/slotted rotors.
Yeah, I think we have to bleed the rears some more. The front is pure liquid I'm sure of that. It should have stopping power, just not sure how much. When I start the car, the pedal goes all the way to the floor and it doesn't feel like I have much pressure to apply the break. And the "BRAKE" and "ABS INOP" lights both come on in the gauge cluster.
sounds like my old car when I had a 4channel rear end in a 3 channel car. Is that what you have? That could be why the ABS no longer works..
-Derek-
1999 Pontiac Trans Am Ram Air- Lots of Boltons..
sounds like my old car when I had a 4channel rear end in a 3 channel car. Is that what you have? That could be why the ABS no longer works..
Could be actually. Were your brakes mushy or were you able to get the brakes working good again but still had the "ABS INOP" light? Hell, if the ABS isn't going to work with the 4 channel rear end in a 3 channel car I might as well yank the ABS out.
The "BRAKE" light indicates 1) the E-brake is on, or 2) you have uneven pressure between the front and rear hydraulic circuits. You have to find out why the pressure is different between the front and rear. Could be air in the system, leaking fluid, master cylinder leaking between the front and rear pistons, pressure differential switch stuck. Once the "BRAKE" light comes on, the ABS will not work
Well we worked on the brakes some more today and the damn ABS just keeps spewing little tiny air bubbles out - maybe 5 or 6 each time we open the bleeder. So we think there's just a shitload of air still in there that we gotta keep bleeding out.
I HATE bleeding the brakes because you never really know when it's done! Why can't the lines just be clear or there be some kind of valve that just self bleeds...
I HATE bleeding the brakes because you never really know when it's done! Why can't the lines just be clear or there be some kind of valve that just self bleeds...
SERIOUSLY... Totally agree. If it weren't for the fact that THANKFULLY once it's bled I hope to never do it again. If I had to do it on a regular basis, I'd be really tempted to buy a set of the speed bleeders that replace the bleeder screws and let you bleed the brakes by yourself.
When I start the car, the pedal goes all the way to the floor and it doesn't feel like I have much pressure to apply the break. And the "BRAKE" and "ABS INOP" lights both come on in the gauge cluster. 
357ci LT1, cammed, stalled, and driven. 
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