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Meissen's LT1 Build-up Thread

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  • Originally posted by c0ncEpT View Post
    Don't forget to throw some poly motor mounts in it while you have the motor out of the car!
    I personally don't care for the extra vibration they place into the chassis. Had them in my car for about a week and pulled them for brand new stock rubber mounts.
    Western Michigan Camaro Club ~ President
    1987 Camaro IROC-Z Pearl White & Black w/ Red Pearl, 355 TPI, A4, 3:42, AirRide,"GOMARO"
    2017 Silverado Double Cab Z71 Pepperdust Metallic, 5.3, A6, 3:42, "SASYZ71"
    2005 Pontiac Grand Prix GT White, 3800
    WMCC Website www.wmcamaro.org

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    • Originally posted by WMCC Gary View Post
      I personally don't care for the extra vibration they place into the chassis. Had them in my car for about a week and pulled them for brand new stock rubber mounts.
      Hmmm I have only heard good things about them. The only thing I have ever heard people ever say they have problems with is when they are paired with a poly trans mount also.


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      • lol ive even considered solid motor mounts.
        -Joel
        1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
        1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


        WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop

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        • 123 posts and the motor hasn't even been pulled yet...

          Is this a build thread?

          Originally posted by Redd8407
          I WANT NOISE! SPEED! AN ENGINE THAT SHAKES MY INTERNAL ORGANS LIKE THEY GOT PARKINSON'S! I DONT WANT AN ENGINE THAT IS PARTIALLY POWERED BY MY LAPTOP BATTERY!
          Originally posted by Z28ISGR8
          WHY THE F*CK IS THERE A GOAT ON A FERRARI?
          Originally posted by Darren
          I think it is because I take it in and out all the time, the rubber has just stretched out, especially at the bottom where it is really thin. It annoys me more then anything.

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          • New factory rubber mounts FTW! Poly suck....they transmit too much NVH.

            I mean....tell me, what's the advantage to a poly engine mount?
            "Oh check it y'all...my engine only moves 1.2mm now when it torque rolls....sweet.....so what my steering wheel and brake pedal vibrate all the time."
            sigpic
            Turbo Charged LS1/T56

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            • Originally posted by WMCCjames View Post
              New factory rubber mounts FTW! Poly suck....they transmit too much NVH.

              I mean....tell me, what's the advantage to a poly engine mount?
              "Oh check it y'all...my engine only moves 1.2mm now when it torque rolls....sweet.....so what my steering wheel and brake pedal vibrate all the time."

              ive seen more complaints about prothane/poly than solid mounts. People who run solid mounts seem to love them so I wonder if the poly mounts have the specific harmonics to multiply NVH.

              I rode in a car that had solids once, and like this guy says below - you could "feel" the engine running through the car more but i wouldnt have classified it as vibration. A vibration to me is high enough frequency that it has a numbing effect, and thus VERY annoying. Definitely not "cool." This car wasnt like that. it was in an old mopar though so i dont know how an fbody would react.

              At this point I am tempted to give them a try, but I have bigger fish to fry right now.

              Anyway the solid mounts really aren't bad at all. Seriously... they don't rattle you around at stop lights. It's hard to convey the difference between feedback and a rattle or shake. The car is very tame with them in my opinion, it just feels more solid and you can feel what's going on. The solid mounts were an improvement for me in every way.. but that's just my experience. I have not been in one with the poly engine mounts that I was aware of, but I have had a set in hand and I don't thnk they'd be all that much different in feel. I just didn't want to have any potential issue with the poly's heating up and getting soft ever, so I went with solids. Just one of those things that with the solids there's no question that I shouldn't have to replace them, ever.

              I had a friend that was convinced the solid mounts were just a horrible idea and it was going to ruin the car and make it really harsh and racecar-like etc etc. So, I didn't tell him I installed them so I could get a real reaction from him... a few weeks after I put the mounts in we took my car out and without asking or saying anything about the car feeling different, within a few minutes he commented the car felt a lot smoother... more solid... and no more major rattles. He asked if I had swapped shocks or something... Nope, just put in those "terrible" solid engine mounts. He thought I was BSing him until I popped the hood and showed him the passenger side where you can see the mount in there.

              I had concern about knock initially so I did a lot of datalogging after the solid mounts install looking for knock, or false knock, and found nothing out of the ordinary. There is a slight amount of knock count increase at WOT, but not enough to show any significant spark retard, just .1 - .3 for a split second here and there. I dug up older datalogs before the solid mounts, they showed the same slight knock count increases and same .1 - .3 for the spark retard. Over significant bumps before the solid mounts I would see brief small increases in knock count and a bit of spark retard, that also went away now that the engine doesn't clank around. In my comparisons, everything seems to be normal in regards to knock and I have not seen anything that concerns me at this point.

              As far as cracking the block, I've never seen any comments on that about it actually happening to LT1's, but I've never searched around about it specifically either. Years and years ago I heard comments about ford 5.0's having that issue, but I don't know if there was any truth to that. LS guys run solid mounts on the aluminum blocks and although I've never went searching for somebody having an issue, I've never seen comment about this happeneing or even any warnings about it when talking about running the solids. That being said I won't be surprised if someone can manage to turn something up with google.... if you're around these cars or any cars long enough you will see some people manage to break some pretty strange things in some pretty strange ways. So I'm not saying it isn't possible, for sure. But it doesn't concern me at all personally.
              Last edited by JoeliusZ28; October 23rd, 2008, 08:45 PM.
              -Joel
              1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
              1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


              WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop

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              • Originally posted by 81daytonapacecar View Post


                123 posts and the motor hasn't even been pulled yet...

                Is this a build thread?

                What he said .
                Last edited by Big block SplitBumper; October 24th, 2008, 02:20 AM.
                Originally Posted by 1fstss
                If god had a muscle car it would have nitrous!

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                • Originally posted by meissen View Post
                  Yeah, Dan's been telling me about those. We'll see, I haven't done too much research in what I'm going to put in for headers but when the time comes I'll research the hell out of it.

                  Right now I just REALLY need to get rid of the V6!
                  I am selling Original SLP headers and CATS for the LT1 I have never used them, And I payed a good amount, would you be interested? SLP is pretty hard to come by now adays. they were used for about 500 miles though (NOT ME)

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                  • Originally posted by WMCC Gary View Post
                    I personally don't care for the extra vibration they place into the chassis. Had them in my car for about a week and pulled them for brand new stock rubber mounts.
                    Yeah my new poly trans mount drives me nuts, but its either that or blow stock rubber ones all the time again .

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                    • Originally posted by Xx573v3xX_Z28 View Post
                      Yeah my new poly trans mount drives me nuts, but its either that or blow stock rubber ones all the time again .
                      A poly trans mount caused vibrations for you?

                      No joke man i cant stand stock trans mounts - they hop all over the place. I didnt notice any vibration from my poly mount either.
                      -Joel
                      1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
                      1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


                      WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop

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                      • Originally posted by JoeliusZ28 View Post
                        A poly trans mount caused vibrations for you?

                        No joke man i cant stand stock trans mounts - they hop all over the place. I didnt notice any vibration from my poly mount either.
                        Yeah it vibrates like crazy, MY stocker never did that, But i'm tired of jacking up the car and replacing them.

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                        • i guess just goes to show different people have different experiences. The only difference i noticed was that my shifter knob stopped bouncing around all over the place.
                          -Joel
                          1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
                          1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


                          WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop

                          Comment


                          • Well, I went to Craig's today (9T8W66) and he let me borrow his engine stand. Wow -- those things are not as stable as I originally thought. Through most of the work today we actually kept the engine hoist and chain taught even though it was still on the stand because the stand just didn't feel all that stable.

                            Anyway, I broke my first exhaust manifold stud... So I guess my dad and I get to drill the rest of the stud out of the engine head and then re-tap it for when I get headers. We got the passenger side manifold off and my dad was happy to see brown burn marks, he says that means it's good combustion? We drained the oil out and the oil was really clean -- a little dark, but still clean. Last but not least we took the engine wiring harness off. The other day I removed the fuel rail from the car to polish so I could feel like I was atleast doing something so there's pics of that too.

























                            - Brian Meissen
                            Owner, MiFBody.com
                            Administrator, LTxTech.com


                            1994 Camaro LT1 Transplant - 357ci LT1, cammed, stalled, and driven.
                            2022 Camaro LT1 - "Cherry Bomb 2"
                            Michigan FBody Meet & Greet Car Show 2022
                            June 4th, 2022 - 9am to 3pm!!!
                            The HUB Stadium, Auburn Hills, MI

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                            • Lookin good!
                              Gone but not forgotten: 1986 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z

                              "You shall ride eternal. Shiny and chrome."

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                              • Gotta be careful with those header studs. I cross threaded one before, but it was an easy one for my dad to fix. Those darn studs rust up so bad, I swear they don't even use anti seize on any of the bolts. At least you have the engine out, for a quick fix.

                                Those fuel rails should be easy to polish up. Just an idea for some extra bling. Run to the hardware store and get some polished Allen head bolts. They are relitivly cheap, and they add a nice custom look to some of the accessories.


                                1997 Trans Am

                                www.fquick.com/transampimp

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