Spray limits on an LT1 motor?

[ITSSLOW]

What are the limits? I've heard people running a 250 shot on an LT1 before. I don't want to go that crazy. Consistantly running a 125 shot on an LT1 would be perfectly fine though?

Plans are...
-Stock lower end
-Longtube headers/Cat back exhaust
-Cold Air Intake
-Mild cam kit
-Ported stock heads
-Larger Throttle body
-Custom Tune


Then the regular stuff like rims, springs, brakes, cosmetic shit.

Anyother suggestions on basic bolt ons to do in combination with the ones planned?

[98ultraz]

Talk to Don Middleton his sn is 1fstss He loves his nitrous hes got a LT1 with ALOT of nitrous on it!!!

[96mikez28]

Be smart about it, my buddy blew the intake manifold of a 95 Z28 sprayin a 150 dry shot with dry shots it's better to wait till 3K RPM's or the nitrous will travel back up into the intake

[99TransAmWS6]

What are the limits? I've heard people running a 250 shot on an LT1 before. I don't want to go that crazy. Consistantly running a 125 shot on an LT1 would be perfectly fine though?

Plans are...
-Stock lower end
-Longtube headers/Cat back exhaust
-Cold Air Intake
-Mild cam kit
-Ported stock heads
-Larger Throttle body
-Custom Tune


Then the regular stuff like rims, springs, brakes, cosmetic shit.

Anyother suggestions on basic bolt ons to do in combination with the ones planned?

Wooo 250..easy there champ lol. I would maybe do a 125. If your gonna be a nitrous hog..id probably jet it for 100. Are you going wet or dry?
I run a safe 150 Wet NX kit on mine. Thats tuned, upgraded fuel system, all the safety items, heater, purge, spraying around 3200-6200 rpms ect ect. On a full bolt on motor. You have definitly got to do the plugs. If you have the money..and fuel upgrade would be wise(if going for a wet)

Now before any jumps me here..im not saying a LT1 couldnt run a 250, or that people dont. I just personally wouldnt push it. You wanna have nitrous on a pretty much stock motor and make it last? Dont over do it.

[ITSSLOW]

Wooo 250..easy there champ lol. I would maybe do a 125. If your gonna be a nitrous hog..id probably jet it for 100. Are you going wet or dry?
I run a safe 150 Wet NX kit on mine. Thats tuned, upgraded fuel system, all the safety items, heater, purge, spraying around 3200-6200 rpms ect ect. On a full bolt on motor. You have definitly got to do the plugs. If you have the money..and fuel upgrade would be wise(if going for a wet)

Now before any jumps me here..im not saying a LT1 couldnt run a 250, or that people dont. I just personally wouldnt push it. You wanna have nitrous on a pretty much stock motor and make it last? Dont over do it.

Yeah Cory I know where you are coming from. I want to do a 100 or 125 shot. I understand you have to upgrade other things to go with it. I was just wondering what you guys think on the LT1's and spray. Dry or wet, 50/100/125/150/200 shot. Each has there pros and cons. I just want to get as much info as possible before I do anything.

Also, how do you guys all activate it? RPM range? WOT? Button?

[1fstss]

you shouldnt bring ANY nitrous kit, wet or dry in before 3000, a LT1 can take a 150 shot all day long safely with about 3 degrees pulled with a stock bottom end. i spray a 300 shot on forged guts, i blew my SS up on a 125 shot but that was 2 years worth and about 100 bottles just toss a nice 100 shot on for now, because once you get used to it your gonna wanna go bigger.

[ITSSLOW]

you shouldnt bring ANY nitrous kit, wet or dry in before 3000, a LT1 can take a 150 shot all day long safely with about 3 degrees pulled with a stock bottom end. i spray a 300 shot on forged guts, i blew my SS up on a 125 shot but that was 2 years worth and about 100 bottles just toss a nice 100 shot on for now, because once you get used to it your gonna wanna go bigger.

100 shot wet or dry? Dry is alot cheaper isnt it? I'm not to worried about cost because either way it's going to be cheaper then a $4000 supercharger.
How do you activate it? I don't want to do it manually. I want to flip a switch down by the shifter and then its on its own.

[97rs4life]

You can activate it using a WOT switch and flipping an arming switch on the dash. You can also use a window switch which will turn it on/off at the RPMs you choose. Say from 3000-6000 is the range, then it will activate at 3k and shut off at 6k. Or you can do a push button method with no safety measures, not recommended though. At least have a WOT switch and a FPSS.

There are some nice kits out there for the lt1's depending on whatever you decide, either wet or dry.

[ITSSLOW]

You can activate it using a WOT switch and flipping an arming switch on the dash. You can also use a window switch which will turn it on/off at the RPMs you choose. Say from 3000-6000 is the range, then it will activate at 3k and shut off at 6k. Or you can do a push button method with no safety measures, not recommended though. At least have a WOT switch and a FPSS.

There are some nice kits out there for the lt1's depending on whatever you decide, either wet or dry.

Does the "window switch" operate from 3000-6200rpm only at WOT or any time its armed?

[97rs4life]

You can get them to have the WOT feature built right into them so when you are WOT and between 3k-6k

My setup right now is wet and I have an arming switch, WOT switch, and FPSS. I stage, then launch, and as soon as I see my RPMs over 3k I hit the arming switch (by my shifter) which at that point I am going WOT and the nitrous activates and I spray through the gears. If you are manual a window switch is good in case you miss a gear or whatever and so the nitrous will only spray when you are 3k-6k then.

[Superman09]

i would go for the Wet. Wet kits seem to put down wayyy more torque, plus the dry hogs off of your fuel system i believe. So cheaper off the start.. yes, but for any decent size shot your going to want to do fuel system as well so cheaper in the end... probably not. Dry runs off of the injectors if i'm correct. I would go ahead and get all the safety features you can. Few hundred dollars in safety features beats the heck out of a few grand for a new motor. Get a WOT switch, FP safety switch, window switch, bottle heater, complete wet kit, FP guage is good, purge kit... get the whole nine yards. better safe than sorry i say. And go with wet to start, you will be happy. Hope this helps. Anyone feel free to correct me if i'm wrong on any of that stuff as nitrous is another cup of tea here.

[Superman09]

also the nitrous outlet sells a sweet switch panel for the ashtray of f-bodys. Its only like $50 and has a switch built in for Arm, Purge, Bottle heater, and bottle opener (can use for an elec cutout if you dont have a heater) Pretty sweet and very clean set up

[1BADAIR]

there are pro's/con's with each kit.
dry kits may need bigger injectors. expecially with heads/cam
wet kits have a possibilty of a backfire(expecially on ls1's) if activated too early. I would never even try to run a M6 without a window switch and don't recommend trying it on an auto with a stock convertor either
I recommend a upgraded pump for both

[99TransAmWS6]

Does the "window switch" operate from 3000-6200rpm only at WOT or any time its armed?

Window switches are programmable. You put in pills, or configure it to start spraying and stop spray at the RPMS you want it to.

I can tell you on thing..if you arent into electrical..do NOT try to install nitrous. It'll boggle your mind how many damn wires, relays, ect ect you have to do with nitrous. I have all the safety items on mine, fpss, wot, heater, purge, all that shit. The harness i added with all the wiring was huge lol.

[97rs4life]

WOT switches are programmable. You put in pills, or configure it to start spraying and stop spray at the RPMS you want it to.

I can tell you on thing..if you arent into electrical..do NOT try to install nitrous. It'll boggle your mind how many damn wires, relays, ect ect you have to do with nitrous. I have all the safety items on mine, fpss, wot, heater, purge, all that shit. The harness i added with all the wiring was huge lol.

WOT switches are not programmable, you either are WOT or not. Window switches are though