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  • Turbo guys... thoughts?

    Looking for some input on a setup I'm throwing around in the back of my mind. (Long post ahead)


    I want a setup that makes around 550rwhp, drives like stock, is quiet, gets decent fuel mileage on the freeway, and is reliable enough to drive on a nearly daily basis in the warm weather months. The car will be 100% a street car and will only go to the track for shits and giggles if it ever happens. I have a brand new unassembled boost-ready 383 LT1 shortblock from an abandoned project that is fully machined and ready to go together. 3.75" Cola forged crank, JE -31cc dished pistons, 6" 4340 I-beam rods (forget the brand, but they look identical to Lunati Pro-Mod rods). The block is half-filled and has billet 4-bolt mains as well as the other usual machining for an engine designed to see a lot of power.


    So here are my thoughts. Even though that shortblock is probably overkill for that power level, I already have everything so I might as well get it assembled and use it. If anything, the fact that it's overkill will hopefully provide the reliability aspect I'm looking for. Now, I'm thinking my best route to get what I want is to do a simple turbo setup. I've never done a turbo setup before. I don't want to spend a lot of additional money on this setup.

    Here's the setup I'm considering:

    -Aforementioned 383 shortblock
    -Stock heads with valve job and appropriate valve springs. Probably would have them milled to get around a 52cc chamber for 9.0-9.5 compression ratio depending on what my deck height is.
    -Very small turbo cam, probably something with a 21x/22x intake duration and mild lift for reliability. Want stock manners, smooth idle, and close to stock powerband.
    -Cast manifold turbo setup from LT1Boost (not sure if he's still in business, can make my own if necessary). Might consider the modified BBK headers if it's worth it/cost-effective.
    -SMALL turbo. Only need ~550rwhp and would rather use a smaller turbo so that I have zero lag. Remember, 100% street car. Would like some suggestions on turbos to consider.
    -used ATI twin-intercooler kit OR small air/water intercooler with heat exchanger. It's a TA... I don't want to cut my bumper and want good airflow to the radiator since the engine has a half-fill. Given my power goals I think either of these options will be fine.
    -exclusively 93 octane pump gas. No meth unless absolutely necessary.


    Also, the car is a T56, so minimal lag and good low-end torque are important to me.


    Before anyone asks, the rest of the car is up to the task. Have a fully-built T56 with a viper mainshaft, 12-bolt rear end with 4.11 gears and Eaton HD posi, kevlar clutch, Racetronix fuel pump w/ hotwire, full suspension upgrades, drag radials, 4" over-the-axle exhaust, 24x PCM conversion.


    So, is this plan completely hare-brained? I know it's a lot of cubes for stock heads, but don't think it'll hold me back considering it's boosted. At the most, I'd consider getting a cheap port job on them like an LE1, or maybe buying as-cast Trickflow heads for slightly better flow and the thicker deck. Please remember, this is 100% a street car and drivability, timidness, and reliability are the primary concerns. Power goals won't grow. I know from experience that I want a car that's capable of running high 120's trap speeds (wouldn't complain if it could do 130) in a full-weight car. I figure 550rwhp is about what I need to do this. I fully realize that even this would be a handful on the street and don't really need any more power that would do nothing but smoke the tires.

  • #2
    that fuel pump wont be enough

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    • #3
      Think so? I've heard of people using them at this power level in boosted setups, but if I needed to upgrade that it wouldn't be that big of a deal.

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      • #4
        That's like 8 psi of boost on say a 76 mil. Easily do-able. That engine will be way over built for that setup.
        -08 G8 GT DD: Rotofab CAI, HID's, Breyton Race GTS'
        -86 Iroc Project: LQ4, Th400, S400, Ford 9"

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        • #5
          Make sure you get a properly spec'd turbo. With 383 ci it will be VERY easy to under turbo it, which is just as bad if not worse than over-turbo'ing it. If you don't get a high enough flowing turbine side, the turbine wheel will receive more exhaust from the engine than it can flow thus getting backed up. When it backs up it effects the wheel… if one wheel is not running efficiently the other will be effected as they are connected to each other thus making your entire set-up inefficient and not performing properly.

          Make sure to run at least a 75/82mm turbine wheel with a very free flowing exhaust and you shouldn't have any issues. Stay away from anything with a smaller turbine wheel as you will battle drive pressure issues from day one not being able to make power in anything remotely high in the RPM range.
          sigpic

          98' Trans Am - Huron Speed Turbo Car

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          • #6
            What is "anything remotely high in the RPM range"? I plan to keep revs under 6k and I would like spooling to be nearly instant with a manual trans. I want boost to come on low.

            With regards to turbo sizing though, I've never bought one before, but I planned to call a manufacturer to get a recommendation. Is that the right way to go about things?

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            • #7
              Originally posted by birdie2000 View Post
              What is "anything remotely high in the RPM range"? I plan to keep revs under 6k and I would like spooling to be nearly instant with a manual trans. I want boost to come on low.

              With regards to turbo sizing though, I've never bought one before, but I planned to call a manufacturer to get a recommendation. Is that the right way to go about things?
              No, you should call me!

              Seriously though, manufacturers in all honestly from what I have seen are not the best at spec'ing per application. I have seen personally a few big name manufacturers not even remotely close on some stuff they have spec'd for customers.


              Example and my best real world scenario.
              Put a basic Hurricane series TC78 turbo on your set-up (68mm turbine wheel). It will spool instantly. It will be fun at 8 psi. Once you start seeing around 5300-5500 rpms, your power will flatten out and then fall off. The more boost you add, the worse this will get. You will spool quick, but the turbo won't like it up high.
              Put a T-series 7575 on there with the larger 75mm turbine wheel. It will spool fast. You won't have any issues making power all the way up to the 6000 rpm mark. Add more boost and have more fun later on. Boost will still come on very fast!
              sigpic

              98' Trans Am - Huron Speed Turbo Car

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              • #8
                I'd go as far to say that the 7675 turbo will work for his app but still have too small of a turbine wheel when the itch catches up and 8PSI isnt enough anymore. It'll make some power no doubt but the back pressure will catch up quick. I guess its all in what you're willing to sacrifice. The resale on that turbo would likely be decent.
                -08 G8 GT DD: Rotofab CAI, HID's, Breyton Race GTS'
                -86 Iroc Project: LQ4, Th400, S400, Ford 9"

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by shawnc16 View Post
                  I'd go as far to say that the 7675 turbo will work for his app but still have too small of a turbine wheel when the itch catches up and 8PSI isnt enough anymore. It'll make some power no doubt but the back pressure will catch up quick. I guess its all in what you're willing to sacrifice. The resale on that turbo would likely be decent.
                  Exactly, which is why I recommended AT LEAST the 75/82 turbine wheel and as free flowing of an exhaust as possible.

                  Do not put something small on there in hopes for instant spool, you will regret it. We can properly size you and always get terrific spool time!
                  sigpic

                  98' Trans Am - Huron Speed Turbo Car

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                  • #10
                    I want the optimal turbo for my current needs. I seriously don't anticipate ever needing to turn it up, and if I do, I will buy the appropriate turbo for my re-adjusted goals. Keep in mind, most street driving is done below 4k rpm. I want a lot of power beneath that. If it runs out of steam at 5700rpm, so be it, that's around the stock shift point anyway.

                    I think it'll be more than 8psi anyway, especially if I keep the heads stock unported which I would like to in the interest of budget. Probably more like 10-12psi.
                    Last edited by birdie2000; March 22nd, 2014, 08:17 PM.

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                    • #11
                      with 4.11's a 88 would spool instantly lol.

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                      • #12
                        Well if that's the case then I'm sure a 94mm will be just about right, lol.

                        I may go to a taller gear in the future in hopes of a better cruise rpm for the freeway. Probably a 3.73, maybe 3.42. Not sure if that makes much of a difference in spooling.

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                        • #13
                          S475. 87mm turbine 1.00 T4 housing. 800hp capable and should spool very fast on a 383. If your looking for quick spool some 5xmm twins would really be the ticket....


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                          • #14
                            I am on 7psi boost and run the Racetronix pump with hotwire kit with no fuel pressure issues. I also upgraded to 60lb injectors. Other than pushrods & valve springs that were installed with the turbo's, my engine is still stock and still going strong.

                            The lower gears are better for spooling which is why I stuck with my 3.42's. They load up the engine more, hence building boost faster. My turbo's start building boost around 1300rpm and you can definitely feel them engaged by 2000rpm. Beyond that, make sure you are pointed straight and HOLD ON! It'll go from that boost point to redline in a heartbeat. I've bounced off my rev limiter a few times at the track because I was mesmorized by the engine/turbo noise and should have been shifting.

                            I would talk to Jon, he knows his stuff and can recommend you a good turbo to start with. Their shop also makes the kits if you needed other parts.
                            My Toys: Hugger Orange 1999 Z28 6-Spd Twin Turbo
                            1937 Chevy Extended Cab Pick-up (One of a kind)
                            Future Toy: Orange Ultima GTR or SLC

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                            • #15
                              The makings of a Huron Speed LT1 turbo kit?

                              I say do it Jim! And let me know what you plan on doing with your current engine
                              -Joel
                              1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
                              1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


                              WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop

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