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  • Nitrous tuning

    Hi guys. So I picked up a plate kit and larry's nano system and plan on running a 100 shot this year, but had a few questions on tuning. I live near the Grand Rapids area and wanted to know who you use to do your tuning and what afr your running. From what I've read, it seems like 11.5-11.8 afr is fairly safe. I do know that the nano system will bump nitrous flow, so I was planning to increase the fuel jet by 20% and stick with the recommended 100hp nitrous jet. I also picked up a timing tuner, so I can pull 4 degrees while spraying. If any of you have used the nano system, what jetting combo did u end up using and how much timing where u pulling?
    sigpic
    CAMMED M6 (375RWHP/371RWTQ)

  • #2
    Chace - start out by pull 6*-8* of timing. Use BR7ef plugs - gap them around .030 -.032.

    AFR - it's a crap shoot. You'll have to find out what the engine likes. Reading the plugs is a better way to tune a N20 engine, that way you know what's going on in the chamber.

    Keep it lean and undertimed and it'll stay together. Rich is not safe for nitrous engines.
    2000 Formula
    fixed slow junk

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    • #3
      Originally posted by Nocooler View Post
      Chace - start out by pull 6*-8* of timing. Use BR7ef plugs - gap them around .030 -.032.

      AFR - it's a crap shoot. You'll have to find out what the engine likes. Reading the plugs is a better way to tune a N20 engine, that way you know what's going on in the chamber.

      Keep it lean and undertimed and it'll stay together. Rich is not safe for nitrous engines.
      I was just reading an article and it say 11.5 for nitrous. I thought that was on the really rich and 12.5 would be a better choice.
      This true?

      Obviously read the plugs, but then when you get the plugs right you can get the AFR reading.
      Originally posted by Yoshi94
      Mines about an inch bigger than Kyles. I need to get one of those
      Originally posted by ryanwarby01
      Put it this way, if you have a money tree a LT1 is a wood chipper!
      sigpic

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      • #4
        Thanks for the input. I'll pull a little more timing and see what the plugs look like... After I get everything hooked up. I've got some work to do.
        sigpic
        CAMMED M6 (375RWHP/371RWTQ)

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        • #5
          Start out safe - I've still got timing, and jetting to play with on my car.
          2000 Formula
          fixed slow junk

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Fox Slaughter View Post
            I was just reading an article and it say 11.5 for nitrous. I thought that was on the really rich and 12.5 would be a better choice.
            This true?

            Obviously read the plugs, but then when you get the plugs right you can get the AFR reading.
            11.8-12.2 is a good place to shoot for as long as your wideband is accurate. 12.5 is to lean IMO. But I agree you need to pull the plugs and read them. The plugs will tell you what the motor wants.
            Last edited by c0ncEpT; April 4th, 2013, 10:25 PM.


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            • #7
              good advice so far, I would add that in order to PROPERLY read a set of plugs they should be new or very very light use on them. New is always best and easiest to see and read. Also the only way to get a proper reading is to shut the car off after making a pass, don't let it idle that will give a false reading because obviously the trims ect are much different at idle than WOT. Here is a decent writeup that will get you familiar with what to look for on a set of plugs.

              http://www.angelfire.com/fl4/pontiac...Readplugs.html
              Doing less with more


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              • #8
                Thanks, that is a good right up plugs
                sigpic
                CAMMED M6 (375RWHP/371RWTQ)

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                • #9
                  Jeff - I know everyone does it different but I've always seen the plug cut apart and the fueling read on the porcelain, not on the base ring.
                  2000 Formula
                  fixed slow junk

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Nocooler View Post
                    Jeff - I know everyone does it different but I've always seen the plug cut apart and the fueling read on the porcelain, not on the base ring.
                    I have heard you can use some sort of scope but I would always cut them, just introducing the method with that link, gotta start somewhere.
                    Doing less with more


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