Nitrous Newb

[jetice]

There is a certain kit for sale on here right now that has me intrigued. I have a few questions regarding the kit and nitrous in general(http://www.mifbody.com/vbulletin/sho...444#post689444) I am doing an LS1 lid swap and thought this would very well in combination with that. I know I have to get a tune before I even think about opening the bottle.

1) It is kit that replaces the MAF, so does this mean I have to get the car tuned in a special manner?
2) Does it look like a plug and play kit? Anything other suggestions for additions that I should buy?
3) What would be a safe jet to run on a stock engine? (I would not plan to start at anything higher than a 50, but go from there)
4) What material would I use to run hard lines?
5) Is there any rules in mounting the solenoids in regards to their location relative to the bottle/outlet? Can they be hidden lower in the engine bay?
6) Is there a specific way that the bottle is supposed to be mounted?

This is all I can think of right now. I like to know anything and everything about these sorts of thing before I buy it, so anything you guys can think of that I should know, please post it. Thank you for your time.

[farmington]

1 you should always get a tune when running spray

3 a 100 shot is safe on a v8 as long as your fuel delivery is adequate
4 shouldn't have to run any hard lines except for the purge and that small diameter line is easy to do
5 solenoids should be mounted as close to nozzles as possible ie up near the tb

you also will have to pull 2 degrees of timing for every 50hp of nitrous. Not sure how you can do this with these cars.

[ThreeHonks]

1) It is kit that replaces the MAF, so does this mean I have to get the car tuned in a special manner? No you do not, bolt on the new maf ends and drive it like normal. Tuning on spray is recommended but for smaller shots it really is not necessary. Just colder plugs and maybe a little timing pulled will be more than sufficient. Pulling timing is probably not even necessary if you run a 100 shot or under. just make sure you run a NGK br7ef plug to be safe.

2) Does it look like a plug and play kit? Anything other suggestions for additions that I should buy? It will work for you. As with anything im sure there are going to be some minor things you will need.

3) What would be a safe jet to run on a stock engine? (I would not plan to start at anything higher than a 50, but go from there) You can run a 100-150 all day on an LT1 if tuned right. I've seen even a 200+ last on the stock pistons but with careful tuning. A 100 is a safe bet for longevity.

4) What material would I use to run hard lines? Normal braided an lines work good but you can also you stainless brake line to run hard line.

5) Is there any rules in mounting the solenoids in regards to their location relative to the bottle/outlet? Can they be hidden lower in the engine bay? Mount them however you desire and wherever you desire. Its even ok to mount them upside down, etc.

6) Is there a specific way that the bottle is supposed to be mounted? Yes, at the same angle the brackets are on with the logo on the bottle pointing up. Correct bottle position is crucial.

[jetice]

Thanks guys. I would rather be informed and safe when it comes to this sort of stuff.

[steddy]

If it helps, I'm still reading up on mine before I start it for next season. Only got one shot to blow it on the current budget.

[masterfab]

5) Is there any rules in mounting the solenoids in regards to their location relative to the bottle/outlet? Can they be hidden lower in the engine bay? Your best to run the solinoids close to the throttle boddie to insure no liquid build-up. if you choose to hide them make sure you have a purg system and purge before every use. I wouldn't mount the solinoids low as that will let all the liquid NO2 and let it rest next to the solinoid.

i wouldn't run no more than a 125 shot. ls1 rods and rod bolt are the weak link in a ls1. ls1 rod bolts have let go at 450hp or higher rpm. your rod itself after a bolt upgrade is good to around 600hp. just like don said 2 degrees of timeing for every 50hp of NO2.( not to say that with a really good tuner that you couldn't run 200hp shot but for durabuility reason i would go no higher than 125.

there is no such thing as a true plug and play kit in anything anymore. like Ryan said you will have to pick up other small odds and ends.

[1BADAIR]

i have the same maf kit. works great. the noid to maf lines are like 32 inches stock. im gonna get some custom ones to help clean up the install
four 3 foot lines to the maf makes a mess

[jetice]

Just another quick question:
Is there a cam that is best for nitrous applications? Or does it just lean to like a N/A or a boost cam?

[DETROITMUSCLE]

nitrous specific cam aren't really something your going to get into with that small of a shot, don't worry about it.

[jetice]

I know that at this level I will not use it, but I would still like to know.

[DETROITMUSCLE]

If you were spraying 2-3 kits then yes but anything under 250 isnt going to make much difference.

[masterfab]

If you were spraying 2-3 kits then yes but anything under 250 isnt going to make much difference.

i agree with jeff. as wide LSA is key thing when choosing a camshaft for nitrous. what i mean by wide is a turbo cam would have a narrow LSA like 114 to 116 close to stock. a nitrous cam likes a wider LSA like 110 to 112. it would be hard to choose a cam for you with out knowing the details of your engine. but like jeff said above. you don't need to worry till you get around 250hp or more.

[ThreeHonks]

with cam technology now a days actually anything under like 300-350hp worth of nitrous doesnt need an n20 specific cam. I was told this by advanced induction

[c0ncEpT]

^ What they all said.

Large NA cams make great power on the shot.

[1BADAIR]

i have a great n20 cam. i made 51hp on a 50 shot.
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