Really? I saw a video online from HPTV, and I thought for sure Royal Purple was paying them to lie about it lol Maybe I'll try that then. . . . I think I need to replace the trans fluid in my 5 speed too. . . .Lost a lot of it during the driveshaft swap.
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Best Synthetic Motor Oil?!?!?!?
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The Joke Master
- June 30th, 2005
- 8513
- Jasen
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Well that's why, I could piss in my engine and make more power than I could with Castrol. lol.Originally posted by DNSTARoyal Purple. No comparisson! I seriously gained 4hp and 6ft/lbs switching from Castrol Syntec to Royal Purple.
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Keep in mind, I'm switching from regular cheapo oil like Pennzoil. Not synthetic, but petroleum-based Pennzoil. The stuff thats like $1.19 a quart lolNick H.
Current MIFC Vice President
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How can I do that with Bosch Platinum +4's?!?!?!? They have 4 electrode things, so no matter where it's pointed, the spark is going to be right in the middle of them! lol j/k That's good advice, I wonder if it actually helps any. . . You should dyno test it.Nick H.
Current MIFC Vice President
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Royal Purple all the way for synthetic fluids.------------------------------------------
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Royal Purple. Have seen way too many anecdotes to not accept the claims by users, not the company.
Just from mileage increases alone, RP has to pay for itself in less than 2,500 miles of fuel savings.
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Amsoil is superior to Mobil 1-Joel
1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd

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I just changed my oil for the first time, and went with Mobil 1. Why? Why not? I run any basic name brand oil in my other cars.
I have a hard time believing that you can measure the HP improvements from using synthetics, or even better; comparing various synthetics for HP or fuel economy. Vehicle dyno runs aren't that repeatable.
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From what I have read online, Amsoil isn't as slick as Mobil 1 or Royal Purple. I finally found a comparison study, and the Amsoil caused more deterioration in the engine. They ran the cars in 1,000 mile increments, then had the oil analyzed. The Royal Purple and Mobil 1 were about the same, and the Amsoil started breaking down various engine components (Not very much, but there were measurable amounts of various metals in the oil filter, much more than with the other two brands.) I think I may try the Royal Purple once, I don't know whether I will like it or not, but there's only one way to find out. . . .Nick H.
Current MIFC Vice President
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Member with Invalid Email Address
- March 25th, 2005
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any synthetic is going to be better than any dino oil period. Avoid brands like castrol or store brands most are buying leftovers or lowest bidder, and may have multiple brands in one bottle. As for spark plugs, we used to replace ac crapos at the dealership with autolite under warranty (since gm sold ac they have fouled too easy)
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- December 1st, 2005
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- Jeremy
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...OK. Believe what you want. Synthetic oil is the root to many problems. I would highly advise not to put it in a high mileage engine if you want to keep the engine. It eats your seals and in the long run will cause more problems. Any kind(engine, tranny, etc) synthetic oil is bad. Why do you think car manufacturers use regular oil when they put it together? And also who cares if you don't have to change it as often as regular oil? It's almost double normal oil. So your getting fresh oil in there more often. Yeah NASCAR cars and cars like that use synthetic, but they get rebuilt so often, the syntheic oil never sits in there enough to do any damage.Originally posted by archemedesany synthetic is going to be better than any dino oil period.
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The Joke Master
- June 30th, 2005
- 8513
- Jasen
- Retiring the 80Z project and Moving on
- Grand Rapids
- Mechanical Designer
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Where's the proof? My manual in my Camaro says that it came with mobil 1, and use of any other oil would void the factory warranty. So not all cars come with conventional oil. Conventional oil breaks down quickly, loses its viscosity, synthetics don't. I've been using synthetic oil for about 8 years, and every vehicle I've put it in, runs just a touch smoother, the filter looks cleaner after I take it out, and the oil looks better. A lot of manufacturers recommend 5-8000 miles between oil changes now on conventional oil. Why? I believe because 3000 miles was established as a standard in the 50's and 60's. Even conventional oil is better manufactured now than it was then. I've never heard of any studies that synthetic eats seals. Hasn't happened to me yet and my Camaro is 7 years old, had nothing but synthetic in it since I've had it the last 3 years and as clean and straight as it is I would believe that the previous owner followed the manual on synthetic oil as well.Originally posted by MrMojoRisin681Synthetic oil is the root to many problems. I would highly advise not to put it in a high mileage engine if you want to keep the engine. It eats your seals and in the long run will cause more problems. Any kind(engine, tranny, etc) synthetic oil is bad. Why do you think car manufacturers use regular oil when they put it together?
I've ran synthetic in high mileage engines. I have an 89 chevy with a 305 that I switched to synthetic on at 140k and now with 155k on it it still runs as good or better than it did before. When I went synthetic in it the idle smoothed out, it started easier, and ran a little smoother. I've read many articles on synthetic, do your research, IT IS BETTER but you are all entitled to do your own thing, its not my car.
I'd also not recommend Crapper state or Pissoil. I've worked on a few engines that ran both of those and they contain high amounts of wax and it balls up in the lifter valley around the cylinder walls and heads and can cause clogging in your oil passages. I've seen it with my own eyes!! I've never seen it in any engine that runs Valvoline or Mobil 1.
For me personally, I would never run or recommend AMS oil. My cousin ran that in his DD and the engine blew up on him. Never had a problem before that. ran that car for 3 years with $0.99 special oil and it was fine, first time on AMS oil, "pop goes the connecting rod".
No Nick, if you buy the Bosch +4's, you don't need to worry about where the electrode is, that's the point of them! If you buy a regular style plug I used to file the electrode back to halfway across the center electrode to get a better flame kernel started, basically it unshrouds the spark. I also can't recommend autolite, they seem like a cheap plug to me, bout the equivalent of a champion I think. But that's just my opinion.Last edited by Orange Terror; February 27th, 2006, 12:37 PM.
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