LS6 Intake... What else

[Formula Z]

Hey guys, I am getting myself an LS6 intake soon and was wondering what else I will or should get. Mines an Ls1 (98), Im sure the TB fits alright, but what about injectors, timing, ported TB, etc? Ill be doing the swap this winter and want to make sure that if I do it, I do it right. Also what about a tune? Would that be neccessary with just an intake swap? Im sure it would help. I also plan on some LT pacesetters and cat delete plus removing emissions crap. Any advice would surely be appreciated. thanks.

[SS4Matt]

you won't need a tune with an LS6 intake swap. everything from TB to injectors to rails will directly fit up with the new intake. but you will need the LS6 coolant crossover delete thing. TSP (texas speed and performance) sells them as the "ls6 install kit" or something like that. basically the ls1 intake has a coolant line that runs under the intake. the LS6 has a flat bottom and that line needs to be "deleted" and you need little plug things for the rear of the heads. i think they're called steam plugs or something, i forget but look 'em up you'll find 'em

[Formula Z]

is it this??

http://texas-speed.com/shop/item.asp?itemid=242&catid=5

[SS4Matt]

yea

[Formula Z]

cool, thanks.

[WMCC SSLS1]

Porting your TB is also a nice gain and worth the time or $$ if you don't want to do it yourself.

The latest trick when installing the LS6 intake to keep the stock LS1 steam pipes and just trim the reinforcing ribs on the underside of the LS6 intake to clear them. Saves the cost of buying the LS6 steam pipes, but the big reason is because guys were having problems with proper coolant flow through their heads after swapping from the LS1 system to the LS6 steam/coolant system. (I believe it helps the life of cylinder #7) So much so that many guys are now retrofitting a rubber hose to reconnect the front pipe to the rear LS6 pipes by going around the intake instead of under the intake like the factory did on the LS1 engines.

So look into this before buying the LS6 pipes, just do a quick search on LS1Tech.com it has been discussed several times.

Also I might be able to help you with a tune down the road as I'm close to GR, I use EFILive.

Greg

[SS4Matt]

word...i'm with greg, i remember seeing a thread on tech where a guy just put some chalk on the LS1 steam tube and then set the intake on it, then just took a dremel or something and notched out the ribs where the tube hit....might be well worth the $40 to save from the block off plugs

you'll probably better understand when you take the intake off and actually see what we're talkin about!

[Formula Z]

sounds good guys, Ill definately look into that. thanks

[WMCCjames]

Greg is right on the money....don't waste your dollars on the steam vent delete kit. You can leave the tubes there and just notch out the intake.

[WMCC SSLS1]

In a 30 sec search I found this thread >>> http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showth...lant+crossover



"IMO you are better off leaving the LS1 style coolant tube or using both with a crossover, both ways you need to grind the ribs off the bottom of the intake manifold. The reason for this is that the LS1 crossover tube does a better job of cooling the #7 cylinder whereas the LS6 tube does not and as you may or may not know the #7 cylinder is usually the "problem" cylinder.

Save your money and just grind the ribs off the bottom of the intake and cool that trouble #7 better!"



Also you NEED to be careful or you will break off the oil pressure sending unit when removing the intake. Guess How I know?


One other thing, most likely you be deleting your EGR system so think about getting the Off Road Headers if you are going to also delete your AIR system. This eliminates the little hook-up tubes that come on the std headers which are prone to having the welds crack around them overtime. (happens on even the most expensive Stainless headers BTW). But if you are going to run cats then keep the AIR, get the std headers and just cap off the EGR header connection.

Pic of my headers (off-road style) w/o the emissions hookups. Really cleans up the engine bay and makes spark plug changes a dream now.

[Formula Z]

by AIR system, you mean?? Sorry Im kinda new to this....

[WMCC SSLS1]

It is the air injection system that pumps fresh air into the exhaust to help light off (heat up) the cats sooner during a cold start. The cats must be rather hot before the catalytic chemical reaction takes place, so the sooner they are up to temp the sooner they start scrubbing the exhaust gasses.

Right after you start the car you will hear this little jet engine sound for 2 mins coming from the drivers side headlight area. This is where the AIR pump is located and is also the reason for the large rubber hose running along the drivers side inner fender to the exhaust system.

If you are keeping the cats then keep the AIR system to help prolong their life , but if you go catless (off road y-pipe) then there is no reason for the pump or the plumbing. So remove it to save weight, clean up the engine bay (a lot) and it quits that awkward howling noise you get in your exhaust during the cold start up and not having cats. It's surprising just how loud the system is with a catless exhaust.

Greg

[Formula Z]

I actually hear mine quite often. more than at startup for sure. i do plan on removing that as well. Ill also take you up on that EFIlive tune.

[SS4Matt]

ditch all the emmissions...all in favor say I....


<---IIII!!!!!!


remove the cats, and ditch the AIR and EGR system....and how does everyone break their oil sending unit with intake swaps? i have never had a problem with that and i've had LSx intakes on and off many times??

[Keego Ridah]

I agree get rid of that junk!