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Help with LT1 exhaust manifold gasket replacement

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  • Help with LT1 exhaust manifold gasket replacement

    I recently noticed my Trans Am was making a chuffing noise when started (cold start, when the engine is warm the noise much less noticeable unless I give it some gas, then the engine gets louder than it used to when accelerating). I checked the oil and although it needs changed next week the level is fine. The noise is coming from the drivers side rear corner on the engine, and I noticed the exhaust manifold gasket looks blown, and air can be felt when my hand is next to it & I have my bf rev it a bit. So I know the gasket needs replaced, but my main question is how exactly do I go about replacing them? I have never done it before, but if it isn't too tough then I'd like to learn how to do it myself. I plan on getting FelPro 1406 gaskets. I've read that its a good idea to soak the bolts with some PB Blaster a day ahead of time to reduce the risk of breaking the bolts. Ok, should I get a set of new bolts just for good measure? My engine is completely stock also, but I want to get a set of headers eventually. What tools do I need, can I do this using a pair of wheel ramps, and what can I do to make sure it's done right? The car is my DD, so I need to keep it running good. Thanks!

  • #2
    A ramp? For what?

    Soak the bolts, tighten them before trying to loosen.
    Once they move tight a tiny bit, loosen them.
    Pull the manifold away from the head (all you need is a space big enough to fit the gasket)
    Slide the gasket in, depending on what gasket you get it will either have holes or little hooks on the two outside bolts.
    Line it up and bolt it back.

    Simple.

    Socket Set
    Box/Open end wrenches.

    Can't tell you the size as I am running Stage 8 bolts.
    Originally posted by Yoshi94
    Mines about an inch bigger than Kyles. I need to get one of those
    Originally posted by ryanwarby01
    Put it this way, if you have a money tree a LT1 is a wood chipper!
    sigpic

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    • #3
      You can try the method TJ suggested or if i were you id just do headers now
      -Joel
      1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
      1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


      WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop

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      • #4
        Be prepared, its not a fun job.
        1998 Chevrolet Camaro Z28 - 6 Speed

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        • #5
          Yeah I put my headers in, in the driveway. Think driver was through the top and passenger was bottom.
          Now if you become buddy buddy with Joel maybe he will let you use his lift.
          Originally posted by Yoshi94
          Mines about an inch bigger than Kyles. I need to get one of those
          Originally posted by ryanwarby01
          Put it this way, if you have a money tree a LT1 is a wood chipper!
          sigpic

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          • #6
            Buy headers.now. especially if u plan on it for future.
            biggest issue with your deal is wanting to make sure the surfaces are clean... which means total removal of the manifold

            On top of that if you still have A.I.R. there could be issues lurking with the check valves on them... ditch it...
            Last edited by Fish-man; April 3rd, 2013, 08:22 PM.

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            • #7
              +1 on the surfaces. Make sure all the old gasket is gone and clean with acetone.
              Originally posted by Yoshi94
              Mines about an inch bigger than Kyles. I need to get one of those
              Originally posted by ryanwarby01
              Put it this way, if you have a money tree a LT1 is a wood chipper!
              sigpic

              Comment


              • #8
                Unfortunately I don't have spare cash for headers right now, it's not that simple. I just want to keep it running well until we get a 2nd car, then we will be able to do what we have been wanting to with the car. I love the car but it sure can be a headache at times. I ordered the gaskets, gonna try and get it fixed this weekend or next weekend. Got my summer tires on & the winter tires off yesterday so that's one less thing that needs done LOL. Thanks for the input guys, much appreciated

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                • #9
                  Thats cool. Plan on better part of the day. Use pb blaster night before. Remove plugs so u dont hit one while moving the manifold.

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                  • #10
                    Be careful with the engine coolant temp sensor, it's on the drivers side cylinder head.
                    sigpic

                    1996 Base Model
                    +2 cylinder mod

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                    • #11
                      I've done the drovers side manifold a thousand times or more. Very very easy. The only bolt that can get frustrating
                      Is the very last bolt on cyl 7. Its known to break. If it does. Pickup a set of header gaskets and bolts then place
                      The header gasket on the manifold and drill out the hole closest to the D shaped manifold opening then use a 3/8
                      Or 7/16s open end to get it tight. And the stock manifold bolts are 15mm or 9/16s.

                      It can be done on stands but I would be prepaired for a few day job. Just did BBK shorties on my lt1 with matching
                      3in Y pipe and to be honest I was not prepaired it took me 3 days with having to fan up egr block off plates and
                      Gaskets for egr. Next delete is the AIR pump.

                      Need any help PM me just went thru it so its all very fresh. BTW love the fact you have a 93. Have a soft spot
                      For them myself.

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                      • #12
                        Make sure you use LOTS of PB Blaster a day or two beforehand, and you may or may not need to remove the oil dipstick on the Pass. side (can't remember if you do or not, I know I had to for my header install, not sure if it's an issue with the manifolds). If you are careful when removing the bolts, and use PB, you may get lucky and not break any. Just take your time, and be careful with it. When I pulled the manifolds on my '93 a few years back, I sprayed PB on all of them the night before, and again the morning I started, and all of them came out easily.

                        Best of luck!
                        Nick H.
                        Current MIFC Vice President

                        sigpic

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                        • #13
                          PB blaster is your friend on this, but be prepared to almost certainly break the bolts from the manifold to the Y pipe. I have Stage 8 bolts as well, great investment. I have longtubes and they have to come loose to put new gaskets in as well, best thing I can say is be patient!
                          sigpic
                          Just your normal loud and slow LT1

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by chrizar View Post
                            PB blaster is your friend on this, but be prepared to almost certainly break the bolts from the manifold to the Y pipe. I have Stage 8 bolts as well, great investment. I have longtubes and they have to come loose to put new gaskets in as well, best thing I can say is be patient!
                            i do remember breaking a couple of the studs on the y-pipe. I think it only cost something like $30 to have them drilled out and replaced at Midas in Adrian though. They arent too bad, if you have to, you can drill and replace with grade 8 nuts/bolts, its the manifold to head bolts that are a pain if they break. i dont think youll have any problems though, as long as you are patient, and use PB Blaster before you start.
                            Nick H.
                            Current MIFC Vice President

                            sigpic

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